26

Re: My EASY and relativley cheap SD3 enclosure

Don't despair!  When we got our SD3, it would not even print the first layer. 

After the Z tuning, we had the same problem as you with warping and often did not get beyond layer 7. It was a bit of a struggle to even print out the printer parts. 

But now with the case, we have printed our first large part and it did not warp at all.

Also, we do not use hair spray, just wipe the bed off with acetone and it seems to be fine.  Also based on advice from others, we start the first layer at 40% speed and run the bed at 100C.

Good luck, but do your case first.

27

Re: My EASY and relativley cheap SD3 enclosure

I am interested in adding a carbon filter to this enclosure. Any recommendations on what fan or filter I should use?

28

Re: My EASY and relativley cheap SD3 enclosure

I think there was a bunch of different filter recommendations on thingiverse and the housings to print for them.....I seem to remember a few topcs on here as well but I can't seem to find them right now.

29

Re: My EASY and relativley cheap SD3 enclosure

basschase wrote:

I am interested in adding a carbon filter to this enclosure. Any recommendations on what fan or filter I should use?

http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:28268
"This is a simple fume scrubber to help get rid of ABS fumes. It's intended to go inside of a heated build environment and keep the interior fume levels down without wasting heat by blowing them out. "

it uses the actual activated charcoal. maybe that is what you are looking for.

Solidoodle2 with Ceramic tile heated bed http://www.soliforum.com/topic/2544/my- … eated-bed/
"1kg should last for an while" is a lie!

30

Re: My EASY and relativley cheap SD3 enclosure

Email sent. I need the original files. I have made modified versions of the rest besides the large back bracket. I used .100 thick Plexiglass instead of .08

31

Re: My EASY and relativley cheap SD3 enclosure

just a data point. I tried just putting a single 13.5" square plexiglass top on the SD3 metal chassis and running the filament through the wire access hole in the back as I have noticed some people doing, but I started to notice that some of the finer details were getting sloppy in my prints, especially the infill. On my printer, the top of the extruder is quite close to the top of the chassis and this required a very small bend radius in the filament.  I noticed that sometimes with a full spool when the extruder would move from back to front it would drag the heavy spool and unwind it and the filament would actually discolor due to the stress at the sharp bend.

I took off the top and ran the filament back over the top and my prints were dramatically improved, although the corners want to lift again.

I guess its time to build a raised top.

Your mileage may vary...

32

Re: My EASY and relativley cheap SD3 enclosure

Stevos758 wrote:

Email sent. I need the original files. I have made modified versions of the rest besides the large back bracket. I used .100 thick Plexiglass instead of .08

What software are you using to create/edit files?  Can't you just import the large_back_bracket_fixed.stl into your software and make your changes?  I designed these in Sketchup and installed an STL plugin.  Now I can import and export STL files.

33

Re: My EASY and relativley cheap SD3 enclosure

I tried. Do you have the sketchup files for me? When I import the STL into sketchup its way bigger than it should be. It was 8ft tall when I tried.

34

Re: My EASY and relativley cheap SD3 enclosure

downeym wrote:

just a data point. I tried just putting a single 13.5" square plexiglass top on the SD3 metal chassis and running the filament through the wire access hole in the back as I have noticed some people doing, but I started to notice that some of the finer details were getting sloppy in my prints, especially the infill. On my printer, the top of the extruder is quite close to the top of the chassis and this required a very small bend radius in the filament.  I noticed that sometimes with a full spool when the extruder would move from back to front it would drag the heavy spool and unwind it and the filament would actually discolor due to the stress at the sharp bend.

I took off the top and ran the filament back over the top and my prints were dramatically improved, although the corners want to lift again.

I guess its time to build a raised top.

Your mileage may vary...

I believe those are all SD2s. On the SD3 our wire harness goes through that same hole. I use the party plate off of Amazon with a drilled 1" hole and printed grommet. The filament still rubs against the top, but no noticeable impact to prints.

E3D-v4 Hotend, MK5 carriage with round plastic wire conduit , 3/16" tempered glass,  Well nut, SureStepr SD8825 1/32 Extruder Driver, PowerEdge 2650 500W PS, QU-BD heated bed, circuit board fan, hinged plexiglass enclosure with plastic tray top. Other than that mostly stock SD3

35

Re: My EASY and relativley cheap SD3 enclosure

Stevos758 wrote:

I tried. Do you have the sketchup files for me? When I import the STL into sketchup its way bigger than it should be. It was 8ft tall when I tried.

You need to import in mm and not inches.

36

Re: My EASY and relativley cheap SD3 enclosure

paeltz wrote:
Stevos758 wrote:

I tried. Do you have the sketchup files for me? When I import the STL into sketchup its way bigger than it should be. It was 8ft tall when I tried.

You need to import in mm and not inches.

I always have to convert to mm by scaling by 25.4 myself. Is there an easier way to do this in Sketchup?

Stevos758 - If it's showing 8' then it's already been converted to mm. So take the measurement in inches (96) and consider that milometers.

E3D-v4 Hotend, MK5 carriage with round plastic wire conduit , 3/16" tempered glass,  Well nut, SureStepr SD8825 1/32 Extruder Driver, PowerEdge 2650 500W PS, QU-BD heated bed, circuit board fan, hinged plexiglass enclosure with plastic tray top. Other than that mostly stock SD3

37

Re: My EASY and relativley cheap SD3 enclosure

Made my own magnet holders for 3mm Acrylic and 10mm magnets.

Could have made them smaller but deicided not too smile

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38 (edited by downeym 2013-06-07 17:18:08)

Re: My EASY and relativley cheap SD3 enclosure

Krythis wrote:
downeym wrote:

just a data point. I tried just putting a single 13.5" square plexiglass top on the SD3 metal chassis and running the filament through the wire access hole in the back as I have noticed some people doing, but I started to notice that some of the finer details were getting sloppy in my prints, especially the infill. On my printer, the top of the extruder is quite close to the top of the chassis and this required a very small bend radius in the filament.  I noticed that sometimes with a full spool when the extruder would move from back to front it would drag the heavy spool and unwind it and the filament would actually discolor due to the stress at the sharp bend.

I took off the top and ran the filament back over the top and my prints were dramatically improved, although the corners want to lift again.

I guess its time to build a raised top.

Your mileage may vary...

I believe those are all SD2s. On the SD3 our wire harness goes through that same hole. I use the party plate off of Amazon with a drilled 1" hole and printed grommet. The filament still rubs against the top, but no noticeable impact to prints.

I think my issue was the bend radius on the filament more than the rubbing on the top. I think the extruder was having a hard time pushing and pulling the filament with it bent so far...

I like the pan plate idea. I built a top for the SD3, but I am not crazy how it turned out. Can I see a picture of yours with the plate on top? Also with a close up of the top of the extruder with the top on.

39

Re: My EASY and relativley cheap SD3 enclosure

Dumb question time. Would anyone be willing to post assembly instructions for this enclosure? I've got the acrylic, the magnets, and I'm printing the parts right now. It looks simple enough but it would really help just to have something to follow along with.

40

Re: My EASY and relativley cheap SD3 enclosure

Hi everybody,
I've replicated Paeltz excellent work with a twist: the entire chassis has been covered with white Tesa marking tape and white foam on the edges.
However I've a trouble with the magnets: I'd like to get away without the magnet holders, and directly glue the magnets to the plexiglass. Here's the catch: what glue should I use?
I tried a Bostik all-purpose glue that says it glues everything except polypropylene but it doesn't work, even if I let it cure as per instructions and sanded a bit the magnet and the plastic contact surface.
What about cyanoacrylate? Or should I go straight with epoxy?
I didn't print the magnet holders, but from what I see the magnets would be installed behind the plexiglas, hence requiring much less adhesive force. But will the magnetic force still be strong enough?
In my experiment I need two 8x1mm magnets to get a proper force, one is barely enough.

Thanks!
Nick

41

Re: My EASY and relativley cheap SD3 enclosure

"Standard" Cyanoacrylate will work.. for a while.. before the heat causes it to fail. Old school cyanoacrylate formulas have about similar thermal resistance to say acrylic... i.e, not much wink The upper limit is about 80°C .. and thats the high end of the spectrum..

There is however, nowadays, 'high temp' super glue. Permabond have a range, a does Loctite ( http://www.henkelna.com/industrial/fast … -12603.htm ) . These are generally good to 120°C - which is enough for this purpose.

You can of course, forget all this, and if appearance isn't a huge issue, just use JB-Weld - its good to the temps it needs to survive...

42

Re: My EASY and relativley cheap SD3 enclosure

Thank you Adrian for the quick reply,
Indeed cyanoacrylate seems to work, on a previously unglued spot. I made sure to clean both plexiglas and magnet with isopropyl alcohol, scratch both surfaces and it sticks.

The plexiglas should not get more than 50°C warm, but as you said if it's likely to fail I will have to find a more expensive glue...

43 (edited by Cromz 2013-08-19 04:10:07)

Re: My EASY and relativley cheap SD3 enclosure

Thanks Paeltz! I used your enclosure for my SD2  smile I also did a camera mount with gopro parts I found on thingiverse and a magnet base I made.

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44

Re: My EASY and relativley cheap SD3 enclosure

Does anyone have STL files for slightly thicker acrylic?  I ended up with pieces about .095" thick and the default parts are designed for thinner material.  I've been slowly trying to learn Blender to make my own parts, but hopefully someone else has already been through this and might be willing to let me use their versions.

Thanks!

45

Re: My EASY and relativley cheap SD3 enclosure

Im a hack. I simply taped my magnets on. I used 3" packing tape all the way across, and folded it over as an extra purpose to cover the sharp edges.

Chuck Bittner is a quadriplegic gamer who is petitioning the major console developers to include internal button remapping in all console games. You can help.
Sign Chuck Bittners petition

46

Re: My EASY and relativley cheap SD3 enclosure

Bob, the acrylic I got was also slightly thicker. I remade 3 parts in freecad, here is a zip file for the 3. the rest I left as paeltz has them. the magnet mounts are a little off, but they still work

I hope these help you.

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47

Re: My EASY and relativley cheap SD3 enclosure

Cromz... perfect!  I shrank the X axis by 10% to make a tighter fit for my acrylic and the parts fit perfectly!  Thanks for offering up your files, they saved me a lot of time.

48 (edited by vssystemluba 2013-08-26 23:33:06)

Re: My EASY and relativley cheap SD3 enclosure

Printed the parts out yesterday and finished it all up today... seems to work really well!!  Sure beats the cardboard and towel system that I had going before...  wink

(Before and after photos are attached for the sake of good humor)


Before...
http://www.soliforum.com/misc.php?action=pun_attachment&item=3159&download=0

and after...
http://www.soliforum.com/misc.php?action=pun_attachment&item=3169&download=0
(sorry about the sideways photo, the picture is saved right-side up but the upload process appears to rotate it...)

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49

Re: My EASY and relativley cheap SD3 enclosure

While at a Dollar General I happened to notice this:
http://i207.photobucket.com/albums/bb55/LendrenStarfall/3D-Printer/lids_zpsa921c90f.jpg
The same basic tray as that one I found on Amazon (that apparently is now primarily purchased as SD3 lids, given what the "frequently purchased with" stuff shows), but for $1 on the shelf.