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Topic: [ABS-MG94] Powder colorant - Burgundy

This was once again based off of my mixing of masterbatch ratios+pelletizing as with my threads on Indigo, but this was one of the few I did not share my successes of due to consistency until now.

Extruder:
Mostly stock Filastruder v1.6 #1870 extruding vertically with full barrel header wrap insulation, melt filter, and a Filawinder
http://i.imgur.com/5yJrPZ9.jpg

Mixing:
Here I discussed mixing powder based colorants in a paint can with a printed mixing bit. I used this exact method for approximately 3 minutes then quickly stored the pellets in a ziplock bag with dessicate pouches for later extrusion.  In this test, I used 500g of virgin ABS MG94 and about 2g of colorant.
http://i.imgur.com/SsvSHDz.jpg

Extrusion:
Temp: 189c
Rate: 8-11 inch per minute
Average diameter: 1.75 +/- .02mm


Printer:
Printit Industries 8.10

Printing:
Temps: 245c/90c
Speed: 120mm/s
Layer Height: .3mm
Similar to the Indigo colorant review, since both parts were printed in the same hour, I had the spiral vase profile temps a few degrees too high as I ended up with stringing, but it printed just fine since the Burgundy filament was less than 24 hours old. As for as printing performance, it was everything I have been spoiled to since reliably extruded with my Filastruder and Filawinder.

http://i.imgur.com/fFeMooP.jpg
http://i.imgur.com/3wYLsAY.jpg

Comparison to available filament:
I have never used any burgundy filament aside from what I had earlier concocted with masterbatch ratios to create this color. However, Afinia and Matterhackers offer it in ABS and PLA respectively.

Takeaway and comments:
This color was a lot more fun to make and play with than I originally thought. This may be because it is an entirely new color available for home extrusion. The extruded filament was much bolder than I had originally anticipated, but lost some color during the printing process which made it spot on. Originally, and in solid print form (non vase mode), the filament appeared more brown than anything, but I blame this on a possibly heightened ratio of colorant vs virgin pellets.


Cleaning after colorant use:
Your cleaning process of the vessel will depend on a couple factors:
1) What material your vessel is.
2) How large it is.
3) What you use as a mixing bit.

Defining (1):
With a glass jar, hot water and a little soap goes a long way. Fill the vessel 1/3 of the way with water with about a quarter sized (24mm) drop of Dawn. Pour the soap before the water so the force louches, then shake violently.
With an empty paint can, a little hot water and a rag to whipe with is all that is needed. If you shake said paint can, you will get more powder distributed and have more cleanup. But with a mixing bit, the cleanup will be more defined.
Acetone can also be used, but this method would be far more preferred for the glass jar (shaking) method since the acetone may dissolve the vynil lining of the paint can and potentially contaminate future batches.

Defining (2):
The size of the vessel can hinder your ability and technique for cleaning. The larger it is, the less likely you are of being able to successfully shaking soap+water and would need to wipe down with a rag and hot water. If fresh, this would work. If old, acetone and said rag would be mandatory.

Defining (3): 
The mixing bits sold at places like Home Depot are generally an ABS tip with an aluminum shaft and should not be cleaned with acetone. Either wipe down the bit with hot water and a tiny dab of soap immediately after mixing the colorant,  or let it sit and cure a while to let the colorant solidify on the tool, or transition to like colors . (i.e. red>orange>yellow / yellow>orange>red)
If you buy a metal bit or print one in PETG, PLA, or Nylon, acetone can

Printit Mason and Printit Horizon printers
Multiple SD2s- Bulldog XL, E3D v5/v6/Lite6, Volcano, Hobb Goblin, Titan, .9 motor, Lawsy carriages, direct Y drive, fishing line...the list goes on
Filawinder and Filastruder #1870.....worth every penny!