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Topic: Solidoodle 4 Replacement Main Board

Hello All! First time post but I wanted to get any help I could with repairing my poor solidoodle 4.

After adding this cooler to my extruder and wiring in a fan in parallel with another fan already on the extruder, I was getting ready to print but then I got a spark and then my printer stopped responding.
http://soliforum.com/i/?MKzjjjM.jpg

I restarted my printer in attempt to see if the board was salvageable. It still connects and can read temp data but cant move any axis or enable the extruder or heated bed. When I try to move any axis I get this error

"Printer stopped due to errors. Fix the error and use M999 to restart. (Temperature is reset. Set it after restarting)"

I removed the board and examined it to look for any fried components
http://soliforum.com/i/?TFfYPzJ.jpg

I never noticed anything out of place.

Any suggestions?

in the mean time I ordered this ramp1.4 board

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0111 … &psc=1

If i get the old board working I will just return the ramps board.

Im on a college budget, hence the reason I ordered a cheaper board.

Any suggestions would be great!

Thanks,
Zach

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Re: Solidoodle 4 Replacement Main Board

ramps is an easy upgrade. I did it to my sd4 just takes a little time.

Sd4 #9080 with a glass bed. E3d chimera duel extruder. Paste extruder , duet wifi.
Lawsy carriages. linear bearings. Y axis direct drive, Kinect scanner
SD4#8188 glass bed, lawsly carriages, E3d v6, octoprint http://www.ustream.tv/channel/hotrod96z28
Filastruder/filawinder, Custom Delta 300mm x 600mm

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Re: Solidoodle 4 Replacement Main Board

Kronikabuse wrote:

ramps is an easy upgrade. I did it to my sd4 just takes a little time.

Thats cool! is it just flashing the mega with the Marlin firmware?

Also were these the setting you used for steps per mm?
http://soliforum.com/i/?NEdyCrr.png

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Re: Solidoodle 4 Replacement Main Board

your E steps are mostly likely off - SD is known to overdo it on that one... wait until you get it back up and running, then calibrate the E-steps for better prints. you will most likely end up around 105 or so when you do.

SD4 #1 & #2 - Lawsy carriages, E3D v6, Rumba controller board, mirror bed plate, X motor fan, upgraded PSU & Mica bed heater
SD4 #3 - in the works ~ Folgertech FT-5, rev 1
Printit Industries Beta Tester - Horizon H1

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Re: Solidoodle 4 Replacement Main Board

heartless wrote:

your E steps are mostly likely off - SD is known to overdo it on that one... wait until you get it back up and running, then calibrate the E-steps for better prints. you will most likely end up around 105 or so when you do.

Okay Great. Yeah these are just the setting on my current board. Funny enough the board can still read inputs but cant seem control any outputs like the stepper motors or extruder

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Re: Solidoodle 4 Replacement Main Board

It happens to me yesterday... putting 200% on movement by mistake... same line in GCode when i try to move my axis... just write M999 in the communication window. It will reset axis and temps measure... wink

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Re: Solidoodle 4 Replacement Main Board

It is odd, since those circuits draw power directly from the 12v line, and not the regulated 5v or 3.3v power.  Does the power LED illuminate?  Where were you trying to connect the fan?

The only common component I can see from the schematic is that NOT_HOTEND, NOT_HOTBED (the BBCode for overline is not working), and -DIR/-STEP for all three axis come from the AT90USB.  I wouldn't expect fan wiring to damage the CPU.

Looking at your Printrboard, I can see that it has the connector for the g-code fan, but the associated MOSFET has been unsoldered from the board.  I can see the solder splashes where it use to be there, as well as a fleck of loose solder near R14.

There may be more...or something other than...fan wiring causing your problem.

-Kevin

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Re: Solidoodle 4 Replacement Main Board

Just a note here, but the extruder should not turn unless the hotend is heated to operational temperature. It's a safeguard in the firmware. The other motors also will not run if the system thinks the limit switches are active or the extruder is in a position where the soft limits are hit if there are any set in the firmware.

Printing since 2009 and still love it!
Anycubic 4MAX best $225 ever invested.
Voxelabs Proxima SLA. 6 inch 2k Mono LCD.
Anycubic Predator, massive Delta machine. 450 x 370 print envelope.

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Re: Solidoodle 4 Replacement Main Board

carl_m1968 wrote:

Just a note here, but the extruder should not turn unless the hotend is heated to operational temperature. It's a safeguard in the firmware. The other motors also will not run if the system thinks the limit switches are active or the extruder is in a position where the soft limits are hit if there are any set in the firmware.

Good point.  The axes may not want to move until they're homed first.

-Kevin

10 (edited by carl_m1968 2019-04-12 22:11:12)

Re: Solidoodle 4 Replacement Main Board

My guess is Q9 got hot enough to unsolder it's self and drop off or blast off from the board. It disconnecting was the spark maybe since there is no visible burnt parts. You should add up the current of both of those fans and make sure they do not exceed a half amp which is the typical current limit of a MOSFET in this style package. Every image I see of this board shows that part there to drive the fan.

Printing since 2009 and still love it!
Anycubic 4MAX best $225 ever invested.
Voxelabs Proxima SLA. 6 inch 2k Mono LCD.
Anycubic Predator, massive Delta machine. 450 x 370 print envelope.

11 (edited by knowack 2019-04-15 18:27:11)

Re: Solidoodle 4 Replacement Main Board

I've blasted Q3 twice (both times my own fault); neither time it showed visible damage.  I just solder another one in, and I'm back in action.  I would think if Q3 got hot enough to unsolder itself, there would be indicators of heat left in the lacquer on the board.  Of course, each failure can be different.

The black 2-pin connector is for a gcode fan.  I don't know what happens if you try to connect two fans to that.  If you're trying to connect another always-on fan, that should go to one of the two connectors at the bottom right of the photo.  I think they're basically connections directly to the power supply traces; I don't even see them on the schematic.

The later Printrboards came with Q3 and the two-pin header installed from Solidoodle.  Mine did not; I had to install Q3, the header, edit the firmware, and re-flash the board to get the gcode fan to work.

-Kevin