Solidoodle 3 Heatbed No Longer Working (Page 2 of 2)

Thanks for the quick reply, will try this tonight.
I am very anxious to get printing again.  Should the printer PS have top be on, off or no matter?
The printer label states#04338.
The microcontroller states#1317004763

Thanks!
Victor

Thanks for the great feedback.
As a follow up my thread, I am up and running. I decided to try this process on another PC  and wala, "uploaded complete"
I used "mlaws-solidoodle2-marlin-f4c71ae" to start edited for the following:

#define MOTHERBOARD 62   ------------Sanguino
#define POWER_SUPPLY 1   ------------Supernight Power Supply
#define TEMP_SENSOR_0 5 ------------E3D v6
#define TEMP_SENSOR_BED 5--------- Calidum HALE Heated Bed

#define HEATER_0_MAXTEMP 225
#define HEATER_1_MAXTEMP 275
#define HEATER_2_MAXTEMP 275
#define BED_MAXTEMP 135

#define DEFAULT_AXIS_STEPS_PER_UNIT   {88,88,2268,110.5}

This was after noticing that my SD was extruding 125mm per 100m step.
Anything else I missed?
My infrared thermometer still shows 5deg less on bed with tape than repetier displays.
Thanks!

Whats confusing is all the terms that have to be understood.

Github, sketch, marlin etc. Should be a one step process, maybe two.

Cheers!

I have a Solidoole 3, and on Saturday I had the same exact situation occur to me that "Connor.Nation" had with his heat bed wire. I found this link below that provides a lot of information regarding print beds and the shortcuts manufacturers and open source engineers are performing:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=W8hBjBVwCYw

I am grateful for finding this blog because I have discovered a temporary solution that "Connor.Nation" indicates by replacing the plug that had burned up. and discovered a more permanent solution using a different heat bed the Calidum Hale heater by PrintIt Industries as suggested by "Heartless".

-Sam

Connor hang in there . New printers can appear cheap but stick with what you have learn to use, repair and if needed upgrade.
there is no better support for the solidoodle than this forum.

Ender 3 can definitely print with very high quality, but you need to tighten the belt and wheels right. They often get loose during the shipment. Most people tighten the belt right, but not the wheels. You can shake the hotend carriage and heated bed and see if they are loose, they should not be able to move at all except the direction they supposed to move.

These wheels need to be tightened with on hex screw driver and two wrench came with the printer at the same time. You need to hold the end hex nut with wrench and tighten it with hex screw driver first, most people did this step correctly. Then you need to tighten the middle long hex nut against the end hex nut with two wrench at the same time, this step is critical to make hotend/print bed stable. You need to do these on all wheels including hotend carriage, print bed, and z-axis. The one under x-axis carriage is most challenging if you don't remove the hotend.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=rFGZ6AzxInw

you don't need to use clips to hold glass in place... use hairspray instead.

wet one side of the glass and set it in place on the bed, heat to about 60C, let cool, repeat the heat/cool cycle a couple of more times.
Glass should be firmly held in place

it is not hard to remove it either, should you need to - simply slide a putty knife between the glass and bed and slide it around to break the seal

Check your email