SD3 help...please... (Page 1 of 2)

When upgrading to the E3D v6, you will not need terminals depending on your board. If you are running the stock Sang or Printrboard, you just need to cut the wires 6" or so away from the plug to the board, then solder and heatshrink the heater wires...polarity will not matter. However, the thermistor wires should have come with a 2 pin female plug, so no soldering is required here, and once again, polarity does not matter.

In terms of your board, it is crucial to verify which type you have for the firmware.
Slicer changes or remarkably simple, usually nozzle diameter, retraction, and speed are all that need a quick lookover. When upgrading from the PEEK to E3D, you will find a wavy pattern we call moire. This can be combated many ways, but the first line of defense is by adjusting your E VREF.

Thank you Both again, this is a true and huge learning curve for me. I ordered replacement 8mmx330mm X rods Yesterday, I dont want to destroy the OEM carriages. And my only concern is cutting the wires coming from the (SANG REV 1.3a as stated on board (SD REV 1.3C sticker)<--on memory chip) and not having the ability to easily return to OEM setup if something Fails or what not. (am i over thinking this) However I have Seen Lawsy upgrade prints are available now in days if i have any problems...I Suppose i can also just rewire & splice the old if i need too. I'll answer my own next question (Where do the new wires plug into on the board. (ill find out when i unwire the Old HUH;)...)   the thermistor wires did come with 2pin plug(I was real worried not to damage it while wiring that fragile thing)...

it will be fine, there are plenty of folks here that have been in your shoes before and can help you with any issues you may run into.

note my signature (two SD4s - both upgraded) the SD4 is pretty much the same as the SD3 but came with side panels stock. Both of mine have been pretty much completely rebuilt - there is very little "stock" left in these machines aside from the cases and motors, and I am not the first, or only one to have done this

I am having a real rough time with this rebuild...i was just about done until it came down to reassembling the parts to the extruder...all i needed was two M3-.5X30 screws...unfortunately home depot only had 20mm lengths...hope ace is the place tomorrow...Hope all goes well after its fully reassembled...

I found the screws...i have every thing back together...now i need to?flash new firmware or can i run A m303 S280 for e3d v6? and i hope i dont have any more problems... im feeling i may have taken on a bigger project then i may have been ready for...i really want to learn how to maintain and tune my own printer  by asking everyone the right questions...it would be cool if someone close by was able to hang out none of my "friends" are into this field of "hobby"

I pretty sure i made the right changes to firmware change temp_senor 0 1 to 5 and change the max_temp to 310...seems to upload...when i open repetier the extruder temp is reading 738.5 before i even turn it on, i get a high temp warning and it says to fix the problem and restart with M999...change printer setting in repetier, gave the M999 code, still didnt reset exturder temp...what am i do so wrong:(??

YEP SURE WAS... i unscrewed the thermistor it hung there by one wire and the other some how got severed...must have happened when assembling it...NOW I am REAL upset with myself...:( I live in PA is there someone close by i could bring my printer or ship to that would be willing to help...i might need more then just a new themistor...this is really bothersome now:( i thought i would have been a good idea to learn how to assemble the hot end too and not order it done...(FAIL) Also, noticed the fan is pulling air away rather then pushing air over the (guess i could turn it around?) OH SO BUMMED...

order some new thermisistors and replace it. its a simple job. not a bad idea to have a few extra on hand. they do wear out occasionally.

Welcome to the world of open source 3d printing.

Yes, it can be quite frustrating at times, but patience and perseverance can, and will, pay off in the long run.

Take your time with installing the new thermistor, triple check everything as you go, and you will be fine.
read through the instructions again, paying special attention to the thermistor section:
http://wiki.e3d-online.com/wiki/E3D-v6_Assembly

for the fan, it is simply a matter of unscrewing, flipping it over, screwing it back on. easy fix.

don't get frustrated and give up, if you are frustrated and/or tense, walk away for a while and come back to it when you are calm and relaxed. it isn't going anywhere and it wont feel bad if you leave it for a bit.

I just upgraded to new Cartridge Style Upgrade for e3d v6, cant find the firmware settings for this...can someone link me to right spot please, open repetier and says fix errors, temperature is reset, Min_temp reached...

I got the printer up and going again, FINALLY! Lawsy 8mm linear bearing Carriage upgrade(Check) E3D V6 with the upgraded cartridge type thermistor(Check) Special Thank you To the Folks@filastruder!(received my replacement fan & Fan Shroud today) i need QC to help me dial in some numbers now:) 

I am using repetier, running the e3dv6 with the .4 nozzel. What are some new speeds & feeds to run at, that will get me dialed in closer. Another question i have is how do i calulate the difference from the dimention the part is blueprinted at as to what is being printed?  Maybe a cheat sheet on some SD3 Gcode would be a huge help too. 

THANK YOU ALL WHO HAVE BEEN OF HELP THUS FAR, & got me to the stage I am at now.

Thank you for those two links heartless, Not so difficult once you have the know how. My wall thickness started at .68 now its hitting .48+.02-.01. 100mm Extrude was about spot on from before rebuild. Now what?