Solidoodle 2 upgrades (Page 1 of 5)

This is being actively answered right now

http://www.soliforum.com/post/115623/#p115623

Thanks for reply, I totally missed that other thread. 

Glass platform: been using since day one since the kapton they gave me wouldn't even stick with ABS slurry (!!!.. yes i washed in acetone)

Firmware is maxed (and abandoned) .  i have the pre-solidoodle motherboard.

I also paid for the metal enclosure.  Sometimes i wonder if it is worth it. i might try the magnet/cardbboard solution.

The only REAL problem i have with my S2 is the build platform takes longer to warm up than it does to print most of the times.  Will the new silicon heater people are talk about help with this?  If so is this the upgraded heated build platform i need? (assuming they will sell it to me which seems to be an issue in other thread)

http://www.solidoodle.com/index.php?rou … duct_id=91

> Make a filament spool holder that doesn't suck... 

Yeaaaahh . been printing "upgrades".  I have the 90 deg angle one , but i still have frequent filament explosions. Any suggestions?

Thanks for your reply.

not sure what you mean by maxed and abandoned firmware.  Having the pre-SD motherboard (i.e., sanguinololu) is a good thing if you want to upgrade!  much easier than printrboard

then theres the Rumba board upgrade and part cooling fans with gcode control etc.

thanks again for the feedback.

I think i might try to tackle a bed upgrade first... or look into a RUMBA.  i think i would prefer getting a new board than slinging solder so i have a way back worst case scenario(last major soldiering i did was a HEATHkit .. that dates me.  And yes the clock still works... running on about 30yrs now. )

AZERATE:  Are your new times with the new mobo and power supply with stock bed heater?  if so the RUMBA upgrade sounds rather attractive to me.

i found this post:
http://www.soliforum.com/topic/1819/hea … isonsstls/

unfortunately all the images are dead. but i think i get the gist of it.  i especially like the integrated bed clips.

print this:  http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:64607  (i especially like the integrated bed clips.)

etch this: http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:65033   (i like the pcb since any broken wires can be resoldered easily vs the qu-bd as mentioned in the post)

drill a few non-compromising holes, adjust the Z home screw, assemble, done.  there are some sang board mods i cant see, but like i said I'm not 100% comfortable burning my bridges (possibly literally).

i do have a couple of questions:

if i decide to go with upgraded PSU first,   I assume the current connections for the bed heat will feed into the switching polls of the relay, and then I would pull a direct lead from the power supply that runs through the power polls into the bed?

Also, does anyone have a preferred supplier for this stuff (US shipping address if that matters)

Thanks again

PS.  the solidoodle merchant software is screwy.  it WILL tell you that things are not available, but not until you try to check out.  this does include most/all of the solidoodle 2 parts.

driggers is correct. You can take one step at a time to find your happy place unless you are wanting to mod for the sake of modding....no harm in that
If you stick with your Sang, everything boardside would still be wired the same. The Supernight, however, would need about 5 minutes to properly wire. Before wiring to the board, adjust the trimpot found on the PSU and observe voltage so you don't risk damage to the Sang.
I will try to dig up a picture of what I mean by "wiring the PSU".

EDIT: Like this

Credit to wardjr for the pic

You actually would want this guy

I have no experience with the relay, so you may want to wait for an SSR veteran to chime in

Diagram looks correct.

i ordered one of those PSUs.

One thing That never seems to get discussed is:  What gauge wire should i use between the PSU and printer?  the math/ american regulations tells me i need 11AWG wire for 12 amps at 3 ft (which is what most of the heated upgrades seem to draw.  1ohm at 12vdc).

since this PSU is 30 amp,   that brings me into power line territory if i max out its capabilities.

Surely people are not running 000 wire to their printers?

+1 what Ward says. where did you find that cool chart ward? could have used that in my HVAC classes I instructed.

yeah never heard of 11 gauge or any odd number size wire either for electricity

Not exactly something you want to risk for such a small amount of wire.  I would use 16 gauge for the extra current carrying capacity.  I would also add that 3 feet seems like a lot, there's no real benefit of remote mounting a PSU.
You are running heating elements and delicate electronics on the same circuit.  If you want strange printing issues and problems, limit/restrict available current.
If you want your machine to run smoothly and not risk burning your supply wires, go with 16 or -18 gauge wire.
I'm not guessing about any of this, the math/science is pretty much engraved in granite.
Ohms Law is your friend
Happy Printing