My SD2 Jigsaw Extruder (Page 1 of 3)

Cool thanks.  I have a spool of ABS, but I'm not able to print with ABS. When I try to heat my hot end above 210 degrees i get errors and have to restart it.  Any suggestion?

Yes.  This is the error I get.

22:28:42.874 : Error:0
22:28:42.874 : : Extruder switched off. MAXTEMP triggered !
22:28:42.874 : Error:Printer stopped deu to errors. Fix the error and use M999 to restart!. (Temperature is reset. Set it before restarting)

It's been awhile since I actually ran my SD2, but with the stock hot end, extruding ABS at 200-205 was no issue, so try that.  This is what the thermistor reads and due to its proximity to the nozzle, the actual temp is about 25-30 degrees higher...

I print ABS at 205.  I think the MAXTEMP cutoff is 215, which you could hit in the temperature variation of the extruder if your PIDs are not working well.  You can see the temperature graph in Repetier and check.

If that is the case, I would suggest setting to 205, heating the bed to 80 or whatever you use it at, then heating the nozzle to 205, then doing the PID autotune procedure, following instructions at http://www.soliwiki.com/PID_tuning.  That will at least ensure that you are not just hitting the MAXTEMP from the variation.

Now, heat up to 205 and try manually extruding some ABS to see if it comes out in a nice straight stream.   If not, troubleshoot.

- could be you ground the filament down at the extruder gear and it's no longer biting.
- could be your extruder thermistor is exposed to the air and as a result the extruder got very hot and burnt abs causing a clog (not sure if this is consistent with your above report).  Make sure there is tight seal with Kapton tape over thermistor as well as the smaller insulator sleeve over it.
- could be a clog for another reason.
- could be that the thermistor is just giving bad readings (too high) and your printer cannot heat up.  You can use an infra red thermometer to get a rough idea of what's going on but don't expect that to be accurate.

If you are really in a jam, ask a forum member to print you the MK5 and order another extruder, such as an E3D v6.  You'll eventually want that anyway if you are going to stick it out with the SD2 (that said, I've run my SD2 with my second stock extruder since 2013).

Stay away from cheap knock-offs, many users here will swear by their official e3d hotends, myself included. An e3d lite6 is very affordable and will get you printing again in no time!

If you're in Europe you can order directly from them, the website has a ton of info you can go over also. http://e3d-online.com/Lite6
If you're in the US a lot of us like to use http://www.filastruder.com/products/lite6

Several of us are currently using the lite6, so feel free to ask any questions!

The duct comes with it, yes.
A Bowden setup is when your extruder is placed in a location other than where the hotend is mounted...think of a delta printer. Solidoodle, Makerbot, XYZ, etc. use direct rather than Bowden

My hot end nozzle is clogged again.  I'm pretty sure it's the ABS that clogged it.  Can someone please print me a extruder in ABS?

Maryland.

I believe the original SD hot end is 12v.  At least that's what the voltage on my power supply reads.  I suspect a lot of people have upgraded their power supply to 24v for the E3D V6 because it draws more power.  I don't believe it's necessary for the lite6 though.  In fact I plan or ordering the 12v version.  You should be fine even if the lite6 is lower because you can adjust z-axis home bolts on the back of the case.  if it is lower, all you would have to do is buy a longer bolt.

Thanks for the confirmation.  I saw that filastruder.com sold extruders for the SD.  I'm going to order from them.