ATLAS 3D Scanner Instructions (Page 1 of 3)

I been asking for clarification also on this thread http://www.soliforum.com/topic/10469/printing-atlas-3d/ as the hardware is mostly not marked by letter as instructions (in video also) say. and the extra prints for the old PI which I am using dont explain how or where to install them or if the new parts are to be used with them some how. where to find serial number for regisering and future free software updates, etc. was told serial number is on sticker on motor (which would not be seen once assembled).

ok my motor has 2 stickers both on center side of motor, one is manufacturer model tag, the other is a white label maker sticker with just a string of numbers and letters

also the Right camera tower part? whats it for its like half the tower.

and the hardware did not come sorted into lettered bags and the video dont say anything about whats in the H bag in its picture of bags. I found 8 different types of hardware some only have 4 each and different sizes screws. nuts and washers. no drawing or means to ID which is for what. not even a list of how many of each should be included.

my pi is same as the number 2 (maybe a B+ its just 1st version with less RAM) but has a full sized SD slot instead of micro SD so hole in case will need to be bigger. on board it says Rapberry Pi (c) 2011.12 has some other ports and the only 2 standard USB are stacked in center on one end not at side like in video.

the video skips the part on attaching the 1st part of frame into the Camera tower then next scene shows it already being installed and sliding the frame over it

one of the instruction PDF (maybe for acrylic case) shows using a long nylon screw to attach camera not included so not sure why its shown.

bag C is washers
I have no woodscrews nor button screws. got 4xM2.5 10mm flat allen screws with nuts and washers which look like whats used to attach turn table but not what size nuts it says to use.

then I have 4 M3x20mm flathead screws.

the assembly video says to use 'A' flat screws and B nuts and C washers for frame parts.
then most other parts it says use D caps screws and B nuts and C washers. then E screw and F nut to mount Pi, then G screws for turn table but 1st says tape B nuts in coupler for those to screw into. those must be M3 nuts as the other screws that use them are. plus the quantity of screws you list are not enough for frame and other parts and I have more than 12 of those. that list dont match assembly of printed inclosure. also the camera tower has 4 screw holes built in like to use self tapping screws in to attach Pi case, but instructions never use those.

the Pi in pic does look like mine and it has a 26 pin socket and 2 small ribon type 1 next to ethernet jack and another near SD card. so this Pi wont work? I also have a clear plastic case for it but no holes for ribons to run through

so does the Pi B+/Pi2 have a line of tiny color LEDs like my Pi B? the 40pin to 26pin ribon just dont use the rest of the 40pins its like a 26pin ribbon with spacer. I prefer seeing all LEDs and Black ABS wont allow that on Pi or camera also will LED light glare on scanned object since they face it?

For the printed case's set of fasteners:

"Bag A" as referenced in the instructions is 43x M3x10mm screws.
"Bag B" is 73x M3 hex nuts
"Bag C" is 34 M3 washers
"Bag D" is 31 M3 socket cap screws
"Bag E" is 4x M2.5x10 screws
"Bag F" is 4x M2.5 jam nuts
"Bag G" is 4x M3x20mm screws
"Bag H" is 4x M2.5 washers

n2ri,

I received your contact form post and replied to you via the forum, since that is what you referenced in the contact form post.
http://www.soliforum.com/post/113899/#p113899

The RPi B is electronically the same as the B+ but physically different (dimensions), so it still "works" with ATLAS 3D.  The B+ and the Pi 2 are electronically different but physically the same (dimensions).  The reason the B is not officially supported is because  it requires a different ribbon cable and a different design for the acrylic enclosure.  Since the B+ has replaced the B, the time spent supporting the B is better spent on improving the product in other ways.  A printable case was made for the RPi B with mounting holes (earlier versions of B didn't have them) since the Kickstarter BYOP included the 26-pin cable.  Let me know if you want to use the B and I will send you a 26-pin cable.  First, post a picture of your Pi so that I can be assured of what version you have.

Regards,
Uriah

What is the settings for your first layer it sounds like you have it to low and creating a flange
On the first layer
As for the software I downloaded and put it on a full size sd on an old rpi and it worked but I'm not sure about the mountings

Sounds more like you need to do some calibrating. When I assembled my Atlas, I didn't have to sand/file a thing. Some parts were very snug, but fit fine with gentle force.

Print a couple calibration parts and compare dimensions. I saw you *may* have some corrupt files, so download some new calibration parts to start with a clean slate.

thanks, thats what I was wondering since I am trying to use my very poorly manufactured quality ABS roll of Octave filament and done as much calibration possible but instead of it being true 1.75mm dia it varies from 1.79mm-2.01mm with some worse spots I have had to back out, cut off and reload mid print about a half inch deep into spool on like 4th print while adjusting calibration best I could. I have to babysit the thing full print time and help it feed at times to finish prints. they are turning out nice all things considered just need cleanup finishing b4 assembly and maybe a few patch/glued spots also but I also intend to paint over the Black ABS with flat black also to stop any reflections from effecting scans and hide patching. once I use what I can of that wasted $35 roll I will print the remaining parts with a dif black roll which can be better calibrated but hoping to do all main outer frame parts with the current roll so outside finish is even.

I re-calibrated several times while slicing files and reprinting test parts and reslicing til parts looked good enough to use.

could not stand another second of that crappy Octave roll. swapped in some Inland stuff from Microcenter. anybody want to grind up some octave and re-extrude it correctly?