1 Topic by Ski52

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Topic: E3D V6 5 clogs in 5 attempts

I've had my printer for about 18 mo and my E3D for about a year.  I have printed both PLA & ABS with what I consider pretty good results - (Lawsy's carriages came out primo!) getting better, until recently....  I gave me and the printer a week off, cuz it clogged 3 times in 3 consecutive tries last weekend - 2 ABS & 1 PLA.  The temps are right, same I have been using for a while.  Tried again today - 2 clogs in 2 attempts.  PLA 185/70.  Prints for about 8 - 12 min, then the filament clogs.  Machine still goes like it's printing, temps OK and all, but no filament.  Space between the nozzle and the print keeps getting larger. 
Was printing a circular thingy - printed about 3 1/2 solid layers then it went to infill (set at default) and the results looks like somebody frizzed their hair, then space......  All 5 clogs have happened in the midst of printing.  The machine pays no attention - the temps stay up and the empty layers run off.  The filament was sealed new til about 3 weeks ago. 

Any ideas? 

This week I'm probably gonna buy an E3D Lite.  Was gonna buy a new nozzle, thermistor & heating element, almost just as inexpensive to get a Lite version.  All I'm gonna print for some time is ABS & PLA anyway.....

TIA

Ski

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2 Reply by AZERATE

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Re: E3D V6 5 clogs in 5 attempts

It is possible the filament had some debris in there causing a partial clog and would explain why it starts ok.
I would recommend soaking it in acetone then hit it with a torch (after dried, of course smile). If an ABS clog, the acetone will clear most if not all. If PLA, the flame will melt it out.

Lite6 is impressive. I'm still running on it and my poor v5 is collecting dust. I also recommend the Volcano while you are at it.

Printit Mason and Printit Horizon printers
Multiple SD2s- Bulldog XL, E3D v5/v6/Lite6, Volcano, Hobb Goblin, Titan, .9 motor, Lawsy carriages, direct Y drive, fishing line...the list goes on
Filawinder and Filastruder #1870.....worth every penny!

3 Reply by Ski52

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Re: E3D V6 5 clogs in 5 attempts

I may order a new nozzle along with the Lite.  Just really getting tired of taking this thing apart.

Just did it again - getting pretty good at it - only burnt myself once this time....

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4 Reply by AZERATE

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Re: E3D V6 5 clogs in 5 attempts

For $5 +/- at Home Depot you can get some thick leather gloves (but one size too big), then get a pair or two of thinner gloves. That's what I do and I can hold the E3D at 280c for a solid minute without feeling a thing!

The Lite6 just has a deeper PTFE liner and a fixed heatbreak. It works great and is definitely affordable, but if you have the cash, spring for the v6 parts....or even the kit. I have 2 spare E3Ds in case I'm down. And that's one of the best things about the updated heating block: no kapton so you can re-use the thermistor. This means that swapping your hotend is much easier than the v5 days.

The question I pose is this:
What brand filament(s) are you using? Most affordable (craptastic quality) filaments will clog, break, and perform poorly. I change from ABS, PLA, exotic PLAs, and Bridge constantly and only had a single clog in 15 months with 2 printers. So My theory is you either got lots of bad filament or some of your slicer settings are off.

Printit Mason and Printit Horizon printers
Multiple SD2s- Bulldog XL, E3D v5/v6/Lite6, Volcano, Hobb Goblin, Titan, .9 motor, Lawsy carriages, direct Y drive, fishing line...the list goes on
Filawinder and Filastruder #1870.....worth every penny!

5 Reply by Ski52

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Re: E3D V6 5 clogs in 5 attempts

Don't know the brand name.  I still have a sealed roll of white ABS with no label on it.  Probably was on the box.  I buy it off Ebay for usually about the least expensive.  This is the first run of problems I've had.  I've used 4 different rolls, 1 new, the others in varying stages of depletion. I've done a lot of good printing with the roll of black PLA that gave me the last 3 clogs. Depending on work, I'll try another run tomorrow, but I will watch the temp graph more closely.  Somethings' gotta be changing a few minutes into the print. 
I need a new nozzle, it's kinda flat from wrenching it while it's hot, but it's been like that for a few months.

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6 Reply by elmoret

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Re: E3D V6 5 clogs in 5 attempts

185C is pretty cool for PLA on an all metal hotend. I'd try 10C increments, up to 225C.

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E3Dv6 All Metal Hotend - the premier 3D printing hotend

7 Reply by Ski52

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Re: E3D V6 5 clogs in 5 attempts

I will do that tomorrow, but it clogged with ABS @ 220/110.  I will order a Lite & new nozzle from you probably tomorrow afternoon - Thanx...

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8 Reply by AZERATE

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Re: E3D V6 5 clogs in 5 attempts

I missed the temp comment.
I print PLA around 218+ and ABS around 240... since you DO NOT have the temp restrictions of the Lite6, crank the heat to 280 and force some filament (hand fed) through. If it is not debris, this should mostly clear it. It is still wise to grab another E3D.

Sounds like you are facing issues with settings more than anything. Regardless, I highly recommend Octave for ABS. Damn near flawless for the cost. I cannot confirm the PLA, however.

Printit Mason and Printit Horizon printers
Multiple SD2s- Bulldog XL, E3D v5/v6/Lite6, Volcano, Hobb Goblin, Titan, .9 motor, Lawsy carriages, direct Y drive, fishing line...the list goes on
Filawinder and Filastruder #1870.....worth every penny!

9 Reply by heartless

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Re: E3D V6 5 clogs in 5 attempts

I totally agree with the Octave brand ABS.

for PLA, I have had good luck with Monoprice - good price, good product.

buying the cheapest isnt always the most cost effective...

SD4 #1 & #2 - Lawsy carriages, E3D v6, Rumba controller board, mirror bed plate, X motor fan, upgraded PSU & Mica bed heater
SD4 #3 - in the works ~ Folgertech FT-5, rev 1
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10 Reply by Ski52 (edited by Ski52 2015-05-26 13:57:33)

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Re: E3D V6 5 clogs in 5 attempts

buying the cheapest isnt always the most cost effective...

I'm believing it!!

But strange it would happen with 3 or 4 different brands/types of filament.  As I said, the nozzle looks pretty out of shape from constant hi-temp wrenching, but a 0.015 wire passes thru with no problem (after it's unclogged).  I believe/hope a new one will solve the problem.

Still gonna get the E3D Lite tho....

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11 Reply by Ski52

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Re: E3D V6 5 clogs in 5 attempts

I ordered a new Lite hot end & spare nozzle.  Come to find, that may not be the problem. 
Tried twice with black PLA - failed both times before completing the first layer.  Temp readout at the bottom of the screen - OK 195/90.  Changed to white PLA and printed one small thing OK.  Tried top print another extruder mount and before it got the first layer, it quit.  Looked at the temp graph - extruder has a nice smooth downward arc to ambient temp, but the readout at the bottom of Repetier maintained the temp is still good!?!?  Even with the graph showing near ambient temp, I could not touch the print head - it was still  real hot..   I see a small amount of bared wire on the thermister, but if it shorted, wouldn't that throw an error? 

I'm at a loss here......

Got a screen shot, if I can get it to post ....

http://soliforum.com/i/?L0qZdJc.jpg

I plan on rewiring all when the new stuff gets here, but for now..... 

Any ideas??

Ender 3 Pro

12 Reply by jagowilson (edited by jagowilson 2015-05-26 21:35:13)

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Re: E3D V6 5 clogs in 5 attempts

If you have bare wire exposed for the thermistor, re-do it with a new thermistor and make sure you get the sleeving down to the head before crimping. Exposed wires can cause all sorts of odd behavior. When I assembled my first e3D, I left the wires slightly exposed and this wound up causing the printer to halt randomly (M999), or just flat out bogus temperature readings.

Also, unrelated, but you should uncomment the line in the firmware "#define PIDTEMPBED". Your bed heater is using Bang Bang which can cause banding.

13 Reply by Ski52

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Re: E3D V6 5 clogs in 5 attempts

I had to do a M999 twice just today before starting the failures.  Can the thermistor be covered with heat shrink?  There is only about 1/32 of an inch exposed, came from me heating the print head with a torch to clear a clog. 
I'm still having trouble with the firmware.  I am running Win7 on an IMac.  Mac don't like Arduino, and Repetier hasn't upgraded its MAC software since I've owned it.   We just got a new Win machine, unfortunately it's running 8.1 - real PIA!  If I can get SWMBO off it for a while, I just may put all the printer stuff on it.  I could try it on the laptop, but its running 8.1 also...  I may order a new thermistor if I can't make use of this one.

All food for thought.

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14 Reply by Ski52 (edited by Ski52 2015-05-26 22:08:19)

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Re: E3D V6 5 clogs in 5 attempts

OOPS

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15 Reply by jagowilson (edited by jagowilson 2015-05-26 22:27:31)

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Re: E3D V6 5 clogs in 5 attempts

I honestly don't know, but heat shrink that close to the heater block seems like a bad idea to me.

Edit: according to Wikipedia:
http://en.m.wikipedia.org/wiki/Heat-shrink_tubing
None of the materials listed have operating temperatures high enough, so no, that's not a good idea.

I'd use Kapton tape. One wrap, with as much needed to cover the bare wire and the remainder on the sillicone insulation (so you can take it off if it causes a problem)

16 Reply by Ski52

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Re: E3D V6 5 clogs in 5 attempts

After close scrutiny, it seems as tho I didn't bare the wires, I knocked a small piece of the sealing compound/epoxy off letting one wire periodically touch the shell.  I have a screw-in thermistor.  I mixed up a small batch of JB Weld and plugged the hole.  It's supposed to be good to ~285C.  Let it set-up last nite, will see if it works later today after work.

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17 Reply by Ski52

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Re: E3D V6 5 clogs in 5 attempts

The JB Weld works - for now!!  Have printed a couple of small things with no temp faults. 

Am now printing a new extruder.  The old one is starting to show some signs of being disassembled many times over the last few days...  Then it's on to firmware - another new adventure!!

Ski

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18 Reply by heartless (edited by heartless 2015-05-27 23:44:12)

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Re: E3D V6 5 clogs in 5 attempts

196 is still a bit on the cold side for an E3D hot end, even for PLA...

the temp difference between my stock SD4 hotend and the E3D v6 is astounding...
I was printing ABS quite well at around 185-190 (depending on color & after much experimentation with temps) with the stock unit - 235-240 with the E3D - a difference of 50 degrees!

I haven't run PLA thru the E3D yet, but plan to soon - with the stock hotend it was running around 160-165 (again, depending on color)
following that 50 degree difference, I expect to be running the PLA around 210-215. I will probably run a temp calibration cube starting at 200, and working my way up to 225 or so - see how it looks.

SD4 #1 & #2 - Lawsy carriages, E3D v6, Rumba controller board, mirror bed plate, X motor fan, upgraded PSU & Mica bed heater
SD4 #3 - in the works ~ Folgertech FT-5, rev 1
Printit Industries Beta Tester - Horizon H1