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Topic: Power Supply - SD3

Ok so solidoodle says my power supply has to be replaced. but i looked and didn't find a thread dealing with the sd3's power supply.

I was hoping someone might be able to point me in the correct direction for a new supply.

and how to install it

2 (edited by wire10ga 2015-05-08 17:34:40)

Re: Power Supply - SD3

Here is what I put on my SD2 to upgrade the powersupply.  I will work with the SD3 as well.
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B009EI … &psc=1

SD2 - Glass Bed, Fans on PCB and Y motor, Custom enclosure
Slicer - Simplify3D

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Re: Power Supply - SD3

using the same one on an SD4.

SD4 #1 & #2 - Lawsy carriages, E3D v6, Rumba controller board, mirror bed plate, X motor fan, upgraded PSU & Mica bed heater
SD4 #3 - in the works ~ Folgertech FT-5, rev 1
Printit Industries Beta Tester - Horizon H1

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Re: Power Supply - SD3

Using similar for my SD3

SD3 w/ RUMBA (8825s), merlin hot end (in pieces). Ender3 w/ silent board for PLA printing. Ender5 w/ silent board, e3d v6, new z lead screw, and glass bed. DiY Kossel w/ smoothieboard (in pieces). Vellman Vertex (in pieces)
Shapeoko2 router in process of being converted to laser engraver (in pieces)
Multicam 5000 series CNC Router w/ 11HP spindle, 5x10' table, and auto tool changer (in pieces)

5 (edited by metaldrgn 2015-05-26 04:03:11)

Re: Power Supply - SD3

I have something like that too...

One other option I think is an ATX power supply from an unused computer. The Firmware code mentions it, but I'm not sure if the board supports it. You would also want to check the actually amp rating for the 12V power since your rated wattage isn't based on just that. It would be nice to turn the power on and off from RepetierHost though!

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Re: Power Supply - SD3

metaldrgn wrote:

It would be nice to turn the power on and off from RepetierHost though!

I plugged mine into a surge protector power strip and turn it on & off with the power switch on that. the only other thing plugged into that strip is a drafting light mounted on the wall.

SD4 #1 & #2 - Lawsy carriages, E3D v6, Rumba controller board, mirror bed plate, X motor fan, upgraded PSU & Mica bed heater
SD4 #3 - in the works ~ Folgertech FT-5, rev 1
Printit Industries Beta Tester - Horizon H1

7 (edited by Ghostling 2015-05-26 14:26:34)

Re: Power Supply - SD3

if going with an ATX power supply you need to look into the detailed specs.. it's important that the atx power supply has a single 12V rail capable of 30A or greater.
some power supplies have two 12V rails each giving 18A, but you're only able to utilize one of such rails so you'll only have half of the rated capacity at your disposal in this case.

8 (edited by metaldrgn 2015-05-28 02:49:41)

Re: Power Supply - SD3

It would just be nice to be able to do it via software (less likely to fail).

A little pricey, but here's an example ATX power supply that provides 62A on the 12V line:

http://www.corsair.com/en-us/cx-series- … odular-psu

The only really question I have would be what gauge wire they are using because I believe it should be 10-12 gauge just for 30A. I guess all or most of the 12V lines would be wired together to distribute the current and overcome the separated power bus. With the stock bed heater and the E3D V6, the most power draw was 140W (compensating for the 50W laptop power draw because it's hooked up to the same power strip) which is roughly 12A and the 16 gauge wire I used from the old power supply suffices for now, but if I was pulling more wattage I'd probably use thicker wires.

9 (edited by grob 2015-05-28 22:57:55)

Re: Power Supply - SD3

Ok, ordinarily ATX psus tend to have 18 AWG wires, but many wires per rail (e.g. more than one molex connector, and they all run separately back to the board). In the linked example, there will be many +12V connections in the modular connectors, all connected to that big 62A rail internally.

18 AWG should be fine for up to 15A over short distances (e.g. your printer!). If you want to pull more, just connect more than one wire, and they'll share pretty happily! smile

For 30A in one cable, 14 AWG or below should be fine.

If this was a Rumba, there are multiple power inputs (separate one for the bed heater!) so you get to split up the load a bit better.

SD3. Mk2b + glass, heated enclosure, GT2 belts, direct drive y shaft, linear bearings, bowden-feed E3D v5 w/ 0.9° stepper
Smoothieboard via Octoprint on RPi