Da Vinci borosilicate glass with heater (Page 3 of 4)

I just installed mine.

I tried the cork Method, but I found that I had some issues calibrating. I think it may be because the clamps pushed the cork in more, so the corners were lower than the center. (Using a dial indicator to calibrate.)

I ultimately decided to file down the plastic tabs like tedh98 did and everything is up and running.

Understandable about not wanting to mod the printer...

I am well past that point as I have changed to using rep .92, and made some adjustments to the case anyway, next steps are to change to a bowden setup because the direct drive extruder is heavy.

My glass is getting looser and looser but it's still prints just fine. It just bugs me to see it constantly shifting around.

Once I get off my lazy ass, I'll take the time to secure it properly...

Hey James,  I am interested in picking up the new setup from you.  I should have the funds on the 27th.  Do you think you will have any available at that time?  Also, how much with shipping to Benton, AR 72015?

Thank you for your time and offering such great alternative.  Cant wait to replace my chipped glass with this one

-Dustin

Hey guys I just wanted to bump this and vouch for this guy to those thinking about purchasing. I went ahead and ordered mine with heater installed because my old glass was developing a concavity in the center that I couldn't shake.

-Very good communication outside of the Soliforum PM system (I miss lots of PM's due to not getting a notification).
-Fast shipping, same day I Paypal'ed.

Arrival!

Great packaging

He includes 2 zip ties and 4 cardboard riser pads

Packaged glass

Old (top) and new (I installed my own Kapton. It was shipped bare glass with heater installed)

Installed with the riser pads. Prints great!

Bonus outdoors shot of new glass with heater

I'm impressed with the product and the jdholbrook33. I will keep you guys posted on long term performance to see how this pans out against the old bed.

Thanks jd!

I did exactly that on one of my 1.0's since the constant flexing on the hot film will eventually break the wire solder pad. Maybe that is why XYZ graciously offers only a 90 day warranty on that part.

I do feel good though that the center screw for the removable shipping plastic retainer of the carriage is fully covered by the 1 year warranty, that is a huge relief.

I guess I am joining the club.  When I was done with my latest print I noticed that parts of the glass where stuck to the print after a full cool down.  I just submitted my ebay order.

It has never happened to me, but I always run a sheet of Kapton just for this reason. I ran it on my stock glass as well as my borosilicate glass before first heat up. Sorry this happened!

No, I replaced it because it developed a concavity at the center that was crippling my print quality no matter what I did to try and "average" my bed height. If it calibrated around the spot, the center often wouldn't stick. If I calibrated with the spot in mind, I would get back-pressure and clicking. I eventually settled on splitting the difference but I didn't like the overall quality and decided to go with the new glass. I have not had an issue with glass chipping off- with or without Kapton. I saw a post on here a long while ago about some pretty nasty glass chips and decided that the 15 bucks for qty 10 Kapton sheets was worth it for piece of mind.

Good information. Thanks.  I may try the glass over glass approach.  I'm just using the standard XYZ filament with factory settings.  Strange thing is that all other parts I have run have popped right off of the borosilicate glass with almost no effort (unlike the stock glass to which parts could really get stuck).  So it doesn't make much sense to me why the glass would have chipped like this because the culprit is normally too much adhesion between the part and the glass.

Some interesting info: Thermal expansion of borosilicate Glass is 1/2 to 1/3 that of regular glass.  Thermal expansion of ABS is very similar to regular glass.  So it would make sense that ABS sticks just as well to borosilicate glass as regular glass - just that when they cool, the difference in thermal expansion between the ABS and borosilicate glass breaks the bond between them.  Since ABS and regular glass have similar thermal expansion rates, the ABS remains stuck to the glass even after cooling. This would explain why the parts come off of the borosilicate easier after cooling.  But there is probably no difference in how well it sticks when hot.  Also might explain why the regular glass chips when trying to remove a stuck part.  Borosilicate chips during the cool-down process.  In either case the chipping happens when the part is being broke loose from the glass.

I had a local glass company but me  piece of tempered the sam size as stock but 6 mm thick. It mounts perfectly under the tabs on top of the existing glass. I have been running mine for two months now like this with no issues. Heats to 110 with no issue either.