Jigsaw Replacement mk3

Great design. That opens up the area where filament breaks when you have a jam making it much easier to clear. You could almost add something at the top to attach a PTFE tube to it so you could load filament with the case on. This is much easier to work with than the existing Jigsaw. I will definately print one!

Take that cover plate I designed (not yet updated for mk3) and mod it so it has end stop mounted where the bar is depressed by normal filament movements and will pop up off when not depressed; it should touche as the filament moves down between  the top part and drive screw and pop up when it is gone to stop the printer...I am sure we are visualizing the same thing and I think it is a good idea, but it would take custom firmware for sure also to send a full emergency stop.

The problem with this is that you lose the print.

In repetier, can you pause from a keystroke?

I always figured that the easiest and most reliable approach would be to monitor the rotation of the pressure bearing: if it is not turning, the filament is not feeding, whether because it is absent or because there is a filament divot or because the hot end has clogged.

The only problem with that idea is with dual extrusion down the road. You may go most of a print without using one of the extruders. I'm sure most wont attempt it, but then again people who add this idea would probably be the first to try dual extrusion. Not to shift the subject too far, but that also makes me wonder if, when attempting dual extrusion, the gcode allows the heaters to be turned off and back on when it estimates a break of more than a few minutes for one of the extruders?  If that is possible, then the encoder idea would work and would only be active if the extruder is above a certain temp I would guess.

Since this thread deals with disassembling and reassembling the cold end (and I've just done that to install the Mk 2 jigsaw replacement) this seemed like a good place to ask: How much force do you want the tensioner arm to be applying?

With the default arrangement of my acrylic jigsaw it was applying enough force that the gear was leaving pretty deep and clear marks on the filament, and getting sort of filled with ABS dust after a while (which I'm assuming was far too tight).

With the replacement I've got it screwed down enough that it's leaving small indentations in the surface but not clear bites like before. Is that enough? Should I aim for deeper indents? None at all?

I suppose part of the answer is "play with it and see what gives you the best prints" but since everyone here must have played with it at some point (if you installed the Mk 2 or 3 replacement) I figured I'd get your suggestions so less playing is required.

Here is a DI Mount for the common US found Pittsburgh branded Harbor Freight product.

I can't get the Arm from this pkg to print either, but I will try again slow and by itself... haven't noticed any skipping. (I still have my idler-arm on the printer, but I needed to print a new base...as I messed up the first one testing random ideas)

**Fixed small problem where the back of the DI lightly hits the motor shaft.**

Holy crap Lawsy thank you for making this. I'm currently attempting to ziptie my extruder together after the acrylic that retains the head of the tensioning screw shattered this morning. If I can figure out a way to keep tension on the filament long enough to print this I should be back in business. Thanks for hopefully saving me from disaster.