Bed stabilizer I made (Page 1 of 2)

Looks great!  I assume the cubical blocks hold the rods against the front of the frame?

And please let us know when/where you post them!

its over in STL section

"All your base are belong to us." SD4 with a RUMBA, supernight PS, 40mm fan on X motor, lawsey carriages with new better tolerance rods, flanged rear bearings, new NEMA 17 with leadscrew on Z-Axis, and e3d v6 with MK5.


Ward and Jago are my heroes

Yeah Ill split them up. I was going to do that initially but figured ppl would use cura and split if needed, but give me bit and ill split em

"All your base are belong to us." SD4 with a RUMBA, supernight PS, 40mm fan on X motor, lawsey carriages with new better tolerance rods, flanged rear bearings, new NEMA 17 with leadscrew on Z-Axis, and e3d v6 with MK5.


Ward and Jago are my heroes

My resolution was never a big deal but I would get ripples when projects were towards front...the bed frame is beyond solid. Absolutely helped. Its up on thingiverse. Solidoodle bed stabilizer

"All your base are belong to us." SD4 with a RUMBA, supernight PS, 40mm fan on X motor, lawsey carriages with new better tolerance rods, flanged rear bearings, new NEMA 17 with leadscrew on Z-Axis, and e3d v6 with MK5.


Ward and Jago are my heroes

It wont attach to wood bed. It was made for the SD printers with the metal beds...you can use my basic idea and tweak how it attaches, but as for direct fit if you have the old bed and not metal one, this wont be print and install

"All your base are belong to us." SD4 with a RUMBA, supernight PS, 40mm fan on X motor, lawsey carriages with new better tolerance rods, flanged rear bearings, new NEMA 17 with leadscrew on Z-Axis, and e3d v6 with MK5.


Ward and Jago are my heroes

I printed a set in PLA (better than nothing), and the 8mm rod holes are too small (easy to drill out), but the bearing holes are about one mm too large, so I'm going to have to tape them before inserting them.

Also on the SD4, the Y belt tensioners get in the way, so you need two of the short arms.

Can't wait for my current print to finish so I can install the stabilizer and stop the jitters!

Also another reason mine peob works because im using lawsey carriage mk5 and ed3 so I need that extra space so both rods are as far from bed as possible so my print head/careiage doesnt hit...also design of carriage might be keeping me from running into issue you have. Let me know your setup, hotend, stock carriahes or not etc...I want this to be easy and universal. Thanks for feedback

"All your base are belong to us." SD4 with a RUMBA, supernight PS, 40mm fan on X motor, lawsey carriages with new better tolerance rods, flanged rear bearings, new NEMA 17 with leadscrew on Z-Axis, and e3d v6 with MK5.


Ward and Jago are my heroes

Mine are smaller...okay ill make two sets of arms one pair short one long snd split up blocks make rod hole slightly larger. If you want in meantime you can split them in Cura...click file itll auto openin it, right click select split object than right click items you dont want to print select delete repeat as necessary. Than go to file save model and voila. Just make sure when you add to RH the drop down tag is set to one on the model. It comes up unknown material if not.....I get this is drawn out, but way to print what you want until I get a chance to adjust and upload. Going to be bit at work now, sorry again (got caught up building my MendelMax yesterday)

"All your base are belong to us." SD4 with a RUMBA, supernight PS, 40mm fan on X motor, lawsey carriages with new better tolerance rods, flanged rear bearings, new NEMA 17 with leadscrew on Z-Axis, and e3d v6 with MK5.


Ward and Jago are my heroes

you've become quite the scholar and gentleman nice work and thanks for sharing

Mostly there!  I printed the parts in ABS overnight, and discovered that the right arm not only needs to be the short length, it needs to be upside down, so the sleeve doesn't run into the block at the lowest Z position.

I needed to wrap each bearing in 2 (should have been 2.5?) wraps of blue painter's tape to make them fit in the sleeves.  Fit was about the same in ABS and PLA, but that doesn't mean my machine is calibrated.

The (front of) the bed is now like a rock, can't wait to print something.  8*)

It turns out there are two stabilization effects here.  One is keeping the (front of the) frame from moving side to side (the obvious one).  The second effect is jamming something between the frame and the springs, which stabilizes the bed adjusting screws so they don't allow the bed to move in the X and Y axes.  Now to figure out a similar stabilizer for the rear of the bed, which still wobbles a bit...

FWIW:  The stabilizer takes 10-20 mm off the height of the build volume, so don't try to move the Z axis all the way down.

I have the e3d and lawsey extruder carriage so my height already is lower so the arm hitting block was never an issue since its so low without stabilizer...good to see ways arpund that for stock hot end users. Ill add that to notes on thingiverse post your build up there and any comments too so others can benefit from your find

"All your base are belong to us." SD4 with a RUMBA, supernight PS, 40mm fan on X motor, lawsey carriages with new better tolerance rods, flanged rear bearings, new NEMA 17 with leadscrew on Z-Axis, and e3d v6 with MK5.


Ward and Jago are my heroes