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Topic: E3D Volcano slicer settings

So, I spent this morning assembling my new Volcano hot end and another mount so I can quickly change between this and the V6.  It's all assembled and calibrated, although I'm sure I'll find some more things to tweak. 

I'm wondering what slicer settings for layer heights and widths people are using on this?  I started with the 1.0 mm nozzle and 0.8 mm layer height and 1.2 mm width.  I have heard that layer height at max 80% nozzle diameter and width at 120% nozzle diameter is usually a good place to be for traditional nozzles in the 0.25- 0.40 mm range, but I'm not sure if that scales linearly to these larger nozzle sizes.  Of course, there may be a larger range where you can get good results.

The first thing I did was print a calibration cube and I was pleased to find that the widths came out good with my current settings.  My first real object was this vase: 

http://i.imgur.com/3oC0cfb.png

I used 3 perimeters at 1.2mm each so it was pretty think and it is VERY strong.  No way could I break it by hand.  The only thing I'm not happy with is the tiny bit of dropping at the small angle overhangs and the gaps where each layer changes.  I accidentally had slic3r's "detect bridging perimeters setting checked, so for some of the outer perimeters, it was quickly accellerating to 60 mm/s but the rest were at 30.  I think slowing it down, or at least keeping it at a constant speed would have been better. 

I would really like to improve the gaps but I'm not sure how.  I think my retraction (4 mm at 150 mm/s) is good because it does quickly stop the flow when it retracts and it starts right back up when it reaches its destination so I doubt that the gaps are caused by retraction issues.  I'm just thinking that when you are printing in these large layer heights and widths there might not be much I can do to improve the gaps.  If you visualize the extrusion path as a flattened oval, and as soon as any part if it touches the previous path... you have a gap that is about one radius, or in this case about 0.40 mm.  On the smaller layers I am used to deal with, this is much less visible and may even blend it but it really shows at these heights.  Any suggestions to improve this?

My next object was this business card holder (http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:11768/#files) and I set it to 20% honeycomb infill with 2 perimeters. 

http://i.imgur.com/uHK3TkT.png

The infill really did not work out.  It was printed at 60 mm/s so thats medium fast, but it is fairly typical for an infill speed.  I've heard of people getting their printers up to 80 mm/s and I have personally run that on some objects so I know its doable.  Why is my infill so sloppy?  This was not happening on my V6 at the same speed.  Shortly after this picture, the nozzle caught the sloppy infill and caused a layer skip, so I killed the print.

Should I increase my temps?  It's at 245.   I don't think its a flow rate issue because my calibration cube came out good.  I know this hot end can do it and my printer is mechanically sound, so what am I missing?  Thanks!

I would love to hear any other general tips from others who have started using a volcano.

SD4 w/ RUMBA, E3D Volcano, all bearings, glass bed

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Re: E3D Volcano slicer settings

4mm is a ton of retraction on a direct setup. That's also pretty fast retraction.

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Re: E3D Volcano slicer settings

I'll run another vase with 2 mm retraction and see how it looks.  I can slow it down too, but I don't see any reason why faster is not better.  Can you enlighten me?

Also, any suggestions on how to fix my honeycomb infill?  I had great infill on my standard V6 with 0.40 nozzle.

SD4 w/ RUMBA, E3D Volcano, all bearings, glass bed

4 (edited by mdrVB6 2015-02-16 03:03:19)

Re: E3D Volcano slicer settings

Update: still struggling with settings.  Here I cranked it up to 45 mm/s on perimeters and it totally crapped itself on the second layer (first was slowed down to 30% speeds).  What am I missing?  How can I get the volcano dialed in?

http://i.imgur.com/f6ZyEdT.jpg

As a side note: this is not intended to be a complaint thread.  I'm sure it will work great once I get it tuned correctly and I wanted to document the process for others who will get it.

SD4 w/ RUMBA, E3D Volcano, all bearings, glass bed

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Re: E3D Volcano slicer settings

You may want to reach out to AZERATE he has his dialed in rather nicely.

Printit Industries Model 8.10 fully enclosed CoreXY, Chamber heat
3-SD3's & a Workbench all fully enclosed, RH-Slic3r Win7pro, E3D V6, Volcano & Cyclops Hot End
SSR/500W AC Heated Glass Bed, Linear bearings on SS rods. Direct Drive Y-axis, BulldogXL
Thanks to all for your contributions

6 (edited by AZERATE 2015-02-16 19:30:39)

Re: E3D Volcano slicer settings

I assume you calibrated your extruder and played with the extrusion multiplier?
My first few test prints actually looked a lot like the ones you show. Try upping the temp by 5c...especially if you are ramping up the speed. Adding more heat shouldn't be by much or even necessary considering the design, but I found it really helps for the impatient user smile Also roll your flowrate back by about 10 until you get the Slic3r settings to your liking.
Give me about an hour (hopefully) and I will show and tell.

Printit Mason and Printit Horizon printers
Multiple SD2s- Bulldog XL, E3D v5/v6/Lite6, Volcano, Hobb Goblin, Titan, .9 motor, Lawsy carriages, direct Y drive, fishing line...the list goes on
Filawinder and Filastruder #1870.....worth every penny!

7 (edited by AZERATE 2015-08-12 03:23:48)

Re: E3D Volcano slicer settings

So here are my Slic3r settings. Some of the numbers may not make sense in comparison to rational settings, this really seems to work. Due to solid infill causing problems (overextruding, thus causing axial shifts), I slowed down the layer speed and bumped the heat up a bit.
http://i.imgur.com/JKhChZJ.jpg
http://i.imgur.com/O4XmlgK.jpg
http://i.imgur.com/QTUmNxb.jpg
http://i.imgur.com/D05zHVb.jpg
http://i.imgur.com/06cQOzt.jpg

This allowed me to print at this speed (which is not pushing the envelope)
https://vimeo.com/119723720
Bare in mind, this video is with a .6 nozzle, but these settings worked well with the 1mm, but changing the extrusion width is still mandatory for precision. So make sure this is adjusted for the nozzle you are using:
.4 nozzle should be .48 extrusion width
.6 nozzle should be .72 extrusion width
.8 nozzle should be .96 extrusion width
1.0 nozzle should be 1.2 extrusion width
1.2 nozzle should be 1.4 extrusion width

Printit Mason and Printit Horizon printers
Multiple SD2s- Bulldog XL, E3D v5/v6/Lite6, Volcano, Hobb Goblin, Titan, .9 motor, Lawsy carriages, direct Y drive, fishing line...the list goes on
Filawinder and Filastruder #1870.....worth every penny!

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Re: E3D Volcano slicer settings

What are you running for retraction?

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Re: E3D Volcano slicer settings

Azerate, thanks for the settings.  I'm not seeing anything in yours that looks critically different from mine, other than you are using about half the layer height that I am attempting with the 1.0 mm nozzle.  It could be that best layer heights just do not scale linearly and I am trying to go to big.  I'm running several more test prints today and I will report back in a couple hours with results...

SD4 w/ RUMBA, E3D Volcano, all bearings, glass bed

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Re: E3D Volcano slicer settings

.8mm layers are pretty tall. I'd say that's why everything looks squishy, its so much molten filament.

11 (edited by jagowilson 2015-02-16 15:48:05)

Re: E3D Volcano slicer settings

AZERATE has noted that the long heater block on the volcano tends to wobble a bit, which is likely contributing to your problems. Does yours have wobble when you wiggle the tip of the nozzle (when cold)? A mount that tightens up the heater block (perhaps with some set screws to avoid direct plastic contact) would be a good idea.

Theoretically speaking I don't see why .8 layers can't be pulled off, at least with the maximum nozzle (1.2mm). If I recall correctly, the folks at E3D successfully used a .6 layer height. Doing so will require mechanical rigidity though, no doubt. Even the slightest wobble will be obvious in the print and can mess up everything when your layers are that thick.

Be aware that if you have wobble it is very possible to snap the heatbrake from the hotend catching on a print.

12 (edited by AZERATE 2015-02-16 15:59:44)

Re: E3D Volcano slicer settings

Length: .4
Speed: 35
Minimum travel after retraction: 2

I wiggling of the Volcano is only a factor when overextruding. There were a few times I was sure the heatbreak would snap, but the extra play prevented it fortunately. Perhaps something like this with a cradle for the heatbreak and top half of heating block would do the job since the design would have to factor in the E3D fan. Lining the plastic with kapton would dampen the heat, but that would fudge the dimensions in design.

Printit Mason and Printit Horizon printers
Multiple SD2s- Bulldog XL, E3D v5/v6/Lite6, Volcano, Hobb Goblin, Titan, .9 motor, Lawsy carriages, direct Y drive, fishing line...the list goes on
Filawinder and Filastruder #1870.....worth every penny!

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Re: E3D Volcano slicer settings

Those are much more reasonable retraction numbers.

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Re: E3D Volcano slicer settings

Damn, this is frustrating.  I decreased layers to 0.60 (0.5997) and I'm still getting slop.  I could post another pic but its basically the same.  It seems like the larger layers require more contact time (slower printing) to bond to each other, otherwise it just rolls right off and forms slop.

I also adjusted retracting, tried both 2.0 mm and 0.40 mm at 50 mm/s.  I haven't gotten a print past the second layer yet so I really can't say how this will affect gaps. 

Also, all settings are now leaving incomplete perimeters on my print, by several mm.  Its not even close to closing perimeters now.  This seems to be a tool path issue, slic3r is just not putting the tool head where it needs to be.  It's as if it goofed up the path calculation because it doesn't know where to put the nozzle with the bigger layers. 

I slowed my first layer way down and also saw no improvements.  The slop starts on layer 2 as soon as it gets over about 30 mm/s speeds on any part of the print. 

I'm confident this is a slic3r issue.  The volcano just does what its told.  Prior to the volcano being released, I don't think many (any?) hobbiest printers were dealing with these kinds of layer heights and widths.  The path generation is all kinds of goofy.  It's also interesting that G-code preview in repetier does not really know how to show bigger layers, it shows space between layers when they get thicker.  So perhaps future versions of slic3r will be better for larger layers, but I will continue to try and get good results from the volcano.  I would like to fix the shitty tool path generation issue before trying to fix the slop  issue.

SD4 w/ RUMBA, E3D Volcano, all bearings, glass bed

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Re: E3D Volcano slicer settings

Perhaps you could run some gcode generated by AZERATE?

16 (edited by jagowilson 2015-02-16 18:27:23)

Re: E3D Volcano slicer settings

You may need a positive extra length on restart value for those gaps (same pane as retraction settings). Are they at the start or end of your perimeter loops? Remember, extra length on restart is in terms of raw filament, not extruded filament (so don't set it to the length of the gap, that won't work).

The trouble is at these larger nozzle sizes slic3rs approximations become more apparent so it may not hurt to give another slicer a shot as well.

The spacing between layers is normal in the GCode view. It is not a bug. The thickness of the lines in the preview stays the same so gaps indicate size. It's awkward but not a bug.

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Re: E3D Volcano slicer settings

Well, I determined the unfinished perimeters is not a tool path issue, but an extrusion issue.  I put in some bridge nylon and it worked fine, all tool paths were closed perimeters.  So it must have to do with the molten filament viscosity or something.  I will be adding some extra length on restart to see how ABS reacts to that.

Now if only I could get a couple more snow days, then I would really have the time to get it dialed in!

SD4 w/ RUMBA, E3D Volcano, all bearings, glass bed

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Re: E3D Volcano slicer settings

Ugh, this is really frustrating.  First it lays down this very nice first layer...

http://i.imgur.com/QLFrCo6.jpg

Then seconds later it totally goes to crap when the speeds go over 30 mm/s!  The perimeters will simply not adhere.  0.60 layers from the 1.0 mm nozzle at 60mm/s perimeters and 40 external perimeters.  My V6 could handle those speeds no problem so I am baffled as to why the volcano is not.

http://i.imgur.com/fZG3TB0.jpg

Also, the second layer solid infill has serious gaps between lines.  This is frustrating because it does a perfect 1.20mm single wall calibration cube, and the perimeters touch nicely.  So if I increased my flow rate multiplier to make the infill lines touch each other, I can expect to be massively over extruding on the perimeter. 

Obviously, I have several issues going to.  Any help is much appreciated.  Thanks.

SD4 w/ RUMBA, E3D Volcano, all bearings, glass bed

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Re: E3D Volcano slicer settings

Here's another test print.  On this vase, (which I killed part way thru), I disabled all cooling and cranked up the speeds, so the cooling failures and curling perimeters are not a concern.  I could eliminate that by knocking the min layer time up and min speed back down.  But the perimeters adhered to the one below it just fine in the vase pattern, unlike the previous box print.  Strangely, it seems to have an issue with long, straight lines like the outside of a box, but does fine with the (nearly) circular perimeters of a vase.  Any suggestions?

http://i.imgur.com/M143och.jpg

SD4 w/ RUMBA, E3D Volcano, all bearings, glass bed

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Re: E3D Volcano slicer settings

I wouldn't call that vase "fine". It looks like its squirting out all over the place, like the hotend tip is rocking around. Are you sure the mount is secure and your carriages don't have slop in them?

You also may not be melting the filament fully. You didn't say what layer heights you were running on v6, but lets make assumptions:

60mm/sec * .8mm width * .3mm height  = 14.4mm^3/sec

60mm/sec * 1.2 width * .6 height = 43.2mm^3/sec

Volcano is good, but I don't know if it is triple the flowrate good.

Why don't you try duplicating AZERATE's settings to get a starting point?

21 (edited by mdrVB6 2015-02-16 23:10:09)

Re: E3D Volcano slicer settings

Hot end is rock solid in the mount.  I agree that the vase is not fine but it was an experiment to see if the layers would even adhere in a circular pattern at high speeds, which it did.  Layers did not adhere in a square pattern, so I don't understand why the results differ .  I will run another vase but I purposefully ran this one way fast just to see what would happen.  I'm 100% sure the hot end is not wobbling and carriages are secure.  I was getting great prints out of my V6.

I am running azerate's speed settings, but his posted widths and heights were for the 0.60 nozzle.  I'm using 1.2mm widths with my 1.0 nozzle.  Next up, I'm bumping down to 0.40 layers and seeing what happens.  It would be somewhat disappointing if that's about all it can do.  I was easily getting 0.48 layers out of my 0.60 nozzle on the V6.

SD4 w/ RUMBA, E3D Volcano, all bearings, glass bed

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Re: E3D Volcano slicer settings

I don't seem to be having any of the problems you are showing.
This is my first solid print after two calibration cubes to dial in flow.
http://i.imgur.com/GFoqE0W.jpg
http://i.imgur.com/CZlGdEh.jpg
.2963 layer height
.96 extrusion width
.80 nozzle
Same speeds I used with my v5 .6
80 mm/s
I am with Tim on this it looks like you have a wobble in your mounting.

Printit Industries Model 8.10 fully enclosed CoreXY, Chamber heat
3-SD3's & a Workbench all fully enclosed, RH-Slic3r Win7pro, E3D V6, Volcano & Cyclops Hot End
SSR/500W AC Heated Glass Bed, Linear bearings on SS rods. Direct Drive Y-axis, BulldogXL
Thanks to all for your contributions

23

Re: E3D Volcano slicer settings

mdrVB6 wrote:

I am running azerate's speed settings, but his posted widths and heights were for the 0.60 nozzle.  I'm using 1.2mm widths with my 1.0 nozzle.

The settings I shared are for the 1mm nozzle. The linked video is the .6
Sorry if I wasn't clear enough with my original post.

Printit Mason and Printit Horizon printers
Multiple SD2s- Bulldog XL, E3D v5/v6/Lite6, Volcano, Hobb Goblin, Titan, .9 motor, Lawsy carriages, direct Y drive, fishing line...the list goes on
Filawinder and Filastruder #1870.....worth every penny!

24

Re: E3D Volcano slicer settings

Well, I've got another container printing now with 0.40 mm layers, 45 mm/s perimeters and 1.2 mm widths and it looks good so far, although it did struggle with the multiple solid layers on the bottom.  I'll post when its done. 

So it seems like I was indeed previously pushing it too hard before.  There is still a limited amount of plastic that can successfully come out of the nozzle per second before it either comes out too cool to adhere to the extruder gear slips because it can't push anymore.  The above comes to 21.6 mm^3/s.  I will continue to run more tests and see what I can achieve.  It is probably a balancing act- I could probably pull off those 0.80 mm layers if I slowed it down to nothing over 30 mm/s... that ends up at 28.8 mm^3/s. 

If anyone else is running a volcano, I would be interested in seeing what you can achieve too.  There is so many possible combinations!

Maybe I can get more flow rate per second if I turn up the heat, but I'm sure past a certain point it will cause other problems.  There is a guy over on reddit who was printing 0.90 layers at 25 mm/s with the 1.2 nozzle. 

Lots of learning for me today!

SD4 w/ RUMBA, E3D Volcano, all bearings, glass bed

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Re: E3D Volcano slicer settings

.2963 layer height
.96 extrusion width
.80 nozzle
Same speeds I used with my v5 .6
80 mm/s
I am with Tim on this it looks like you have a wobble in your mounting.

Math comes out to 22.76 mm^3/s so you are not really pushing it like I was when I was getting issues.  Mount is 100% rock solid, using the bolt on mount that I based off yours so there is absolutely no wobble anywhere.  I could post a video but I'm 100% on this.

How adventurous are you feeling?  Want to try something some settings that push 60- 80 mm^3/s and see if you can pull it off?

PS: where is your fan on that E3D heatsink?

The settings I shared are for the 1mm nozzle. The linked video is the .6
Sorry if I wasn't clear enough with my original post.

How are you having a width less than the nozzle diameter?  It says 0.75 width and if you have a 1.2 nozzle on there... that doesn't check out.

SD4 w/ RUMBA, E3D Volcano, all bearings, glass bed