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SoliForum - 3D Printing Community → XYZ Printing DaVinci → printing PLA 1.0A
So I just got a roll of PLA from amazon and decided to try it. I flashed my cart temps to 190 and 50. I printed a test part for 30 min and I went well. so I printed another parts and it went for about 20 min then started clicking. where should I go with my extruder temp from here up or down?
So I just got a roll of PLA from amazon and decided to try it. I flashed my cart temps to 190 and 50. I printed a test part for 30 min and I went well. so I printed another parts and it went for about 20 min then started clicking. where should I got with my extruder temp from here up or down?
It wont matter, your 1.0A has the older extruder that is not compatible with PLA. The metal tube the filament goes into just before the heater block gets too hot regardless of set temp. This causes the filament in the tube to expand and no longer fit the opening leading in to the heater block which is just over 1.75mm about 2mm to be exact. The clicking is the motor not being able to turn due the filament no longer fitting.
You would need the same after market mods that others are doing with the E3D or PICO hot end. Or add some heatsinks and another fan to cool the feed tube of your extruder.
I was under the impression that the 1.0A had the correct extruder.
I was under the impression that the 1.0A had the correct extruder.
I am under the impression that just like with the 1.0 having three variations the 1.0A also has some variations.
The initial 1.0A had a note on it's box that said it could print PLA but next to that was an *. If you looked through the paper work and in fact I think it was on the box as well in a very small print foot note, saying That printing with PLA was possible with an optional head that was to be released in the future.
So the question is, how many variations of the 1.0A are there and which one was the PLA head added to?
The Da Vinci 1.0 as I said had the following versions.
1st Release = Main board with drivers in sockets, Reset Jumper, and large SD Card at power switch end.
2nd Release = Main board with drivers in sockets, Reset jumper removed but pads still present. Large SD Card at end of PCB.
3rd Release = Main board redesigned with drivers directly soldered, Jumper removed, pads no longer present in old location, SD card now micro in middle of PCB.
My guess is the initial released models of the 1.0A where also still not capable of PLA since at that time the heads where still not available.
This is practically false advertising, if I can't print the pla they are coming out with in my 1.0 I'm gunna be pissed. Every single website you look on, and on the box, it says it can print pla.
This is practically false advertising, if I can't print the pla they are coming out with in my 1.0 I'm gunna be pissed. Every single website you look on, and on the box, it says it can print pla.
Yes the 1.0A says it can, but the 1.0 never did say it could without a different head. I would suggest looking this over carefully. There is no mention of PLA anywhere but it does say ABS and at the very bottom of the page is the usual we reserve the right to change/claim anything disclaimer.
http://us.xyzprinting.com/us_en/Product … .0#feature
Now since the 1.0 and the 1.0A are considered the same this page would apply to the 1.0A as well since XYZ does not differentiate at this time between the two.
This is practically false advertising, if I can't print the pla they are coming out with in my 1.0 I'm gunna be pissed. Every single website you look on, and on the box, it says it can print pla.
Yes the 1.0A says it can, but the 1.0 never did say it could without a different head. I would suggest looking this over carefully. There is no mention of PLA anywhere but it does say ABS and at the very bottom of the page is the usual we reserve the right to change/claim anything disclaimer.
http://us.xyzprinting.com/us_en/Product … .0#feature
Now since the 1.0 and the 1.0A are considered the same this page would apply to the 1.0A as well since XYZ does not differentiate at this time between the two.
Now the 1.0 Aio with the scanner says it can do PLA. But if you have a 1.0 that does not have the scanner then it cannot do PLA without being modified by having an Aio head installed or one of the previously mentioned mods.
So now my question is, what are we all calling a 1.0A? I have a 1.0, that does not have a scanner and has just a plain grey clear door. From what I understood the only way to tell an 1.0 from a 1.0A is the door says 3D Printer now. Or is a 1.0A the Aio with the scanner?
here is a pic of my extruder. is this the old one Carl? thanks
here is a pic of my extruder. is this the old one Carl? thanks
This image is what the older NON PLA head looks like. The motor and gears are removed for simplicity.
As you see, same one. Yours cannot do PLA as it is. If you go to the XYZ part store and look at a DUO print head which can do PLA you will notice fins. Those fins sandwich that threaded tube to dissipate the heat that soaks up into it from the thermal block. The newer PLA upgrade head will look just like a DUO head that has been split in to a single head.
If you look at any PLA capable hot end you will notice they all have fins in the area above the melt zone. If they did not then the heat would creep up and cause the PLA to swell and jam. ABS does not have this swelling issue.
here is the working version for me. I added a piece of aluminum angle to the back with the stock heatsink. then added a old pc heatsink that I had laying around and attached the fan. working great now.
I was under the impression that the 1.0A had the correct extruder.
The XYZ webstore now sells PLA carts and refills but says only compatible with the AiO... I kinda thought the Duo would be supported as well.
georgehine wrote:I was under the impression that the 1.0A had the correct extruder.
The XYZ webstore now sells PLA carts and refills but says only compatible with the AiO... I kinda thought the Duo would be supported as well.
I think it is early yet. They said the 1.0A was compatible for me (my version) and mine has a hot end is similar in design to the 2.0. They link their partner retailers but it is not available yet from them.
Look at this page:
http://us.xyzprinting.com/us_en/Product/PLA
This was interesting:
Extruder application
Buy Extruder
To ensure the printing quality, please prepare separate extruder for different printing material. After changing the extruder for different material and loading filament successfully, please remember to calibrate the print bed before printing.
Taken from the above page, this should solve the what version is my printer issue. Mine is a 1.0 just like I thought. It also appears the correct single extruder with the heatsink for doing PLA is available from the store for 99 bucks if you click the buy link from the above page. The listed head for DUO also has the heatsink so that head should do it as well. My 1.0 does not have a heatsink and was never specified to be able to do PLA.
mine is a 1.0A and it has the heatsink on the back. however, the heatsink was not sufficient. I have been printing PLA great for 3.5 hours now after adding heatsinks to the back along with thermal paste. I think that they used to small of a heatsink.
Update: I made it 5 hours without any flaws!
Without removing the print unit, which I would not like to do until absolutely necessary, is the attach photo enough to tell if these are the heat sink fins being discussed. So does this indicate my 1.0A printer is PLA print ready?
Thanks
Without removing the print unit, which I would not like to do until absolutely necessary, is the attach photo enough to tell if these are the heat sink fins being discussed. So does this indicate my 1.0A printer is PLA print ready?
Thanks
Those are the fins, so according to XYZ you should be able to, but not making any promises myself. I believe one user here in fact the one above your post had those fins and had to add more of his own before he could do PLA successfully.
yep mine had those same fins and I couldn't print pla for even 5 min
My thinking is the XYZ PLA may be a special make up and the heat creep in the newer head does not affect it like it does other brands/normal PLA. It could be the reason it is taking them so long to get it on the market.
I have duo 2.0A And I have been printing PLA non stop since I got it (1 week) I had a aio before but sold it to a friend.
The pla of this photo (I have do prints of 8h with no problems) it's a very cheap one from a seller here in madrid, it's nothing special.
This little toys for my children. Inked it fast with a black marker.
The prints where done at 175-185C, the one of the right went bad because supports and forgot to turn on the side fan I have prepare. PLA does a lot of curling on overhangs (specially this cheapo pla)
For my bed I go 31C (basically off), blue tape and hair spray applied with a sponge (hair spray over the sponge and then I apply it to the blue tape).
For long prints, you need a fan (I'll like to test some expensive pla but I have used a lot of cash on wood filaments)
The yellow filament of the back of the photo it's the next one I want to try for some project.
I'll post more pla photos in a moment, 2 fan boxes i'm working on that I'm not gonna use.
Also I print with S3D direct from the program (I'm using the default firmware that comes with the duo 2.0A.
Edit. The last photo it's from a fan box I'm working on to cool the printed pla (not the head) and get a clean-no-curl pla print. (the one of the back in red it's ABS)
Edit. Last photo. Wood (it's pla + wood 20-40% wood or something alike). This was printed on the aio. Sanded a bit to test the decoloring and has curling problem on the edges because I was on my learning curve with this material.
I have duo 2.0A And I have been printing PLA non stop since I got it (1 week) I had a aio before but sold it to a friend.
The pla of this photo (I have do prints of 8h with no problems) it's a very cheap one from a seller here in madrid, it's nothing special.
This little toys for my children. Inked it fast with a black marker.
The prints where done at 175-185C, the one of the right went bad because supports and forgot to turn on the side fan I have prepare. PLA does a lot of curling on overhangs (specially this cheapo pla)
For my bed I go 31C (basically off), blue tape and hair spray applied with a sponge (hair spray over the sponge and then I apply it to the blue tape).
For long prints, you need a fan (I'll like to test some expensive pla but I have used a lot of cash on wood filaments)
The yellow filament of the back of the photo it's the next one I want to try for some project.
I'll post more pla photos in a moment, 2 fan boxes i'm working on that I'm not gonna use.
Also I print with S3D direct from the program (I'm using the default firmware that comes with the duo 2.0A.
Edit. The last photo it's from a fan box I'm working on to cool the printed pla (not the head) and get a clean-no-curl pla print. (the one of the back in red it's ABS)
Edit. Last photo. Wood (it's pla + wood 20-40% wood or something alike). This was printed on the aio. Sanded a bit to test the decoloring and has curling problem on the edges because I was on my learning curve with this material.
Very interesting. Did you do any modifications to your hot end or does the 2.0A have a better heatsink than the 1.0 that manages to keep the hot end neck temps in check?
i wonder if buying these and screwing them down on the top of the M6 nozzle would do the trick for the older heads?
Very interesting. Did you do any modifications to your hot end or does the 2.0A have a better heatsink than the 1.0 that manages to keep the hot end neck temps in check?
Nope, nothing. Just the xyzpro to change the cartridge base settings (and reset cartridge ofc).
For pla I had to put a fan on a side (one 5v usb connected) on the side, because if not there was a bit of curling, specially on the overhangs. On one of the photos (the one that has the red abs) I'm making a fan mount to cool down the pla while it prints, but nothing on the hot end.
i wonder if buying these and screwing them down on the top of the M6 nozzle would do the trick for the older heads?
I was wondering if there was something like this- a threaded series of disks that acts as a heatsink. Ill get clearance measurements to see what the neck can fit tonight.
Nope, nothing. Just the xyzpro to change the cartridge base settings (and reset cartridge ofc).
For pla I had to put a fan on a side (one 5v usb connected) on the side, because if not there was a bit of curling, specially on the overhangs. On one of the photos (the one that has the red abs) I'm making a fan mount to cool down the pla while it prints, but nothing on the hot end.
I see. I wonder why your PLA does not swell in the neck. Great job though! Paving the way for others to run low risk PLA jobs with the same hardware. Do you have a picture of your fan setup as it is now? Is it traveling on the carriage or stationary on the side?
I was using the fan for duo that's it's on thingverse but the hang and setup don't work for my idea. I'm building it atm. When it's finished I'll post it. The idea it's to hang it on the metal array (there's a gap of 4-8mm that dont hit the sides when the head moves and to pass the air between the rail and the metal so the air goes straight down to cool the printed surroundings. So far the red model almost works but the hang didn't so back to the drawing-measuring part 
madmike8 wrote:i wonder if buying these and screwing them down on the top of the M6 nozzle would do the trick for the older heads?
I was wondering if there was something like this- a threaded series of disks that acts as a heatsink. Ill get clearance measurements to see what the neck can fit tonight.
Did you ever find out if this would work?
SoliForum - 3D Printing Community → XYZ Printing DaVinci → printing PLA 1.0A
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