1

Topic: no Y Axis movement

just got my sd4... I calibrated the bed and tightened the belts just like the instructions. I have X and Z movment.. The heaters work correctly.. No Y axis movement.. If i try to move it , it makes a loud i'm not gonna move noise. I can physically move the Y axis and the belts move accordingly. When physically moving it it doesn't make a weird noise.. I'm using the repetier software provided. Could this be driver related or hardware related? Any help would be much appreciated.. This is my first printer.

2

Re: no Y Axis movement

If it moves freely by hand then start by checking for a loose connection.  Ultimately it sounds like the VREF for that driver needs to be adjusted.

Printit Industries Model 8.10 fully enclosed CoreXY, Chamber heat
3-SD3's & a Workbench all fully enclosed, RH-Slic3r Win7pro, E3D V6, Volcano & Cyclops Hot End
SSR/500W AC Heated Glass Bed, Linear bearings on SS rods. Direct Drive Y-axis, BulldogXL
Thanks to all for your contributions

3

Re: no Y Axis movement

i've checked all the connections.. so i was playing with the movements.. when i move the X axis all the way tto the left it doesn't have a sensor to tell it where to stop.. so it bashes into the wall unfortunately... But once it stops at the wall the motor continues to try and go that direction but can't and makes the same noise.. I'm now assuming this is software related because it that same noise in the X axis is the same as the Y axis.. Only the y axis doesn't move at all and makes the noise as if its locked out already. That or the motor is stuck..
How exactly can i adjust the VREF?

4

Re: no Y Axis movement

kimchi_25rr wrote:

How exactly can i adjust the VREF?

You can use a plastic or ceramic screwdriver to adjust the stepper drivers on the board.
In a pinch, I've wrapped kapton tape on a screwdriver. You just don't want to conduct electricity...bad juju.

Anywho...adjusting the VREFs is typically done by ear. Move the motors until you hear a smooth movement. Sounds like yours is currently set too low and it struggles, giving the sound you hear. To be sure, turn your Y VREF all the way down to start from scratch. You will noticed a massive difference in pitch as you get closer to said smooth pitch.
Also, remember that quarter turns will have a massive change. Turn slow to the desired setting.

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5

Re: no Y Axis movement

after much more tinkering i've come to find out the belts are not aligned and are way to tight. the motor gets stuck trying to spin the belts which it can't.. I don't have an allen key to adjust the lockers on the axles to move the belt over slightly.. i'll have to get one tomorrow. I loosened up the belts on the plastic thingies in the front as much as possible without losing to much tension and it starts to move now but with that rub noise.. i was able to move the axle in the back just right so it'd spin and it smoothed out just once... I then spun it some more and the axle thing started coming out of the right side a little... So i guess i just need to align the belts. But no where on their website does it say re-assembly required. For a 600$ toy i would have to say i wouldn't recommend this to a friend at all.. This thing should've worked right out of the box. If i can't adjust it correctly tomorrow i'll be sending it back for a full refund and going with a different company.

6

Re: no Y Axis movement

That's the Spirit!!! wink

Printit Industries Model 8.10 fully enclosed CoreXY, Chamber heat
3-SD3's & a Workbench all fully enclosed, RH-Slic3r Win7pro, E3D V6, Volcano & Cyclops Hot End
SSR/500W AC Heated Glass Bed, Linear bearings on SS rods. Direct Drive Y-axis, BulldogXL
Thanks to all for your contributions

7

Re: no Y Axis movement

well i figured it out.. i fixed that issue and now more issues arrise.. The printer doesn't know where the bed is.. it prints off the edge on the right side.. even tho its center. how do i tell it where center is?

8

Re: no Y Axis movement

Glad to hear you decided to stick it out.
When you hit home does the extruder move right and back?  It uses that right rear (Home) position to know where it is.  From there it starts counting down from about 200mm's as it moves left or forward.  So if the end switches aren't being triggered at home it will throw the whole thing off.  The other thing you want to check is that you have the correct printer selected in settings.

Printit Industries Model 8.10 fully enclosed CoreXY, Chamber heat
3-SD3's & a Workbench all fully enclosed, RH-Slic3r Win7pro, E3D V6, Volcano & Cyclops Hot End
SSR/500W AC Heated Glass Bed, Linear bearings on SS rods. Direct Drive Y-axis, BulldogXL
Thanks to all for your contributions

9

Re: no Y Axis movement

when i press home it goes moves to the far back right corner.  i have a solidoodle 4 but for whatever reason i just use whatever it defaults to or else i have 0 controls of the printer. i've noticed there is a fan that keeps the printer from using the full size bed..  The fan itself stops movement on the front left side and leaves about  1/4" of platform left. so its actually not an 8x8x8 printer.   i decided to just move the object over to print.. But more problems arise. lol So i leveled the platform .. Set the Z limiter in the back. Extruder temp at 195c and print bed set to 100.. the first portion of the print will set the plastic to the bed and its good and stuck there.. later in the print in gets unstuck and flys off the platform. The extruder i've noticed sometimes bashes into the plastic as it doesn't know height of the plastic. so if it prints something in the center 3mm thick and goes to print something else... Then moves to a location but the first portion is in its way , it'll bash into it.. Also i noticed while it goes over itself over and over the plastic eventually just peels off the bed anyway.. so i'm not sure whats goin on with that.. I tried slowing the speed down . upping the temps and lowering..

10

Re: no Y Axis movement

You are correc it isn't a full 8"x8" some have removed that fan to gain back some space.  There are many things you can do to help your prints stick better. First off it sounds like you are over extruding so check the WIKI. About calibration of the extruder and flow rate.  Then go buy some cheap hardware store glass and put that on the bed and spray it with some Aqua net hair spray.  That should help keep your prints stuck better.

Printit Industries Model 8.10 fully enclosed CoreXY, Chamber heat
3-SD3's & a Workbench all fully enclosed, RH-Slic3r Win7pro, E3D V6, Volcano & Cyclops Hot End
SSR/500W AC Heated Glass Bed, Linear bearings on SS rods. Direct Drive Y-axis, BulldogXL
Thanks to all for your contributions

11

Re: no Y Axis movement

wardjr wrote:

You are correc it isn't a full 8"x8" some have removed that fan to gain back some space.  There are many things you can do to help your prints stick better. First off it sounds like you are over extruding so check the WIKI. About calibration of the extruder and flow rate.  Then go buy some cheap hardware store glass and put that on the bed and spray it with some Aqua net hair spray.  That should help keep your prints stuck better.

+1...

Also, when you say the nozzle bashes into a previous print, are you printing sequentially?  If so, try turning that off in Slic3r Configuration by going to the Print Settings Tab / Output Options - Unselect "Complete individual objects".

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Thanks for All of Your Help!

12 (edited by kimchi_25rr 2014-12-20 00:49:31)

Re: no Y Axis movement

http://i1151.photobucket.com/albums/o63 … 629058.jpg

here's a link to my issues.. i checked that sequential print thing and it was already unchecked in the complete individual objects.

The print comes out all stringy.. Is this a slic3r issue?  its all wrong. Its just one hot mess.. Any ideas?

Btw i appreciate all the help you guys are giving me. I'm extremely frustrated as i initially thought most of the technical issues would be fixed by solidoodle.. I didn't realize how labor intensive this was going to be. but i'm trying to stay positive. and hope my first roll of abs plastic doesn't run out before i get 1 good print

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Re: no Y Axis movement

Hang in there you'll get it.  I would seriously recommend a less ambitious first print.
That being said I'd like to see a single perimeter 20 mm cube with no top layer.  This is referred to as a calibration cube.  It takes only a few minutes to draw it (just draw a solid 20mm cube).  Then look at your slice profile and choose 1 perimeter and zero infill and no top layer.
Once you get this done print it and post a picture.  You need to calibrate steps per mm from the WIKI first. Then print the cube and adjust the extrusion multiplier.  You will want a digital caliper to measure the wall thickness of the cube.  If you don't own one buy one and in the meantime I'll try and help you guess your way through it.

Printit Industries Model 8.10 fully enclosed CoreXY, Chamber heat
3-SD3's & a Workbench all fully enclosed, RH-Slic3r Win7pro, E3D V6, Volcano & Cyclops Hot End
SSR/500W AC Heated Glass Bed, Linear bearings on SS rods. Direct Drive Y-axis, BulldogXL
Thanks to all for your contributions

14 (edited by kimchi_25rr 2014-12-20 07:54:25)

Re: no Y Axis movement

here is the current image filament settings 1.72 extrusion_m .72
http://s1151.photobucket.com/user/Kimch … a.jpg.html 
here's a cube i printed earlier 1.75 and 1   .. found it in the trash. sorry for the lightning
http://i1151.photobucket.com/albums/o63 … e67d05.jpg



I was playing with it earlier . it was originally at 1.75 and 1 .. i'm going to assume the filament is smaller than 1.75..
i know i need to set this but i don't have a micrometer or a caliper. i figured if i got it close it would still print well.
with these settings i don't think there's enough extruding because you can see the the gap between the 2 lines.

15

Re: no Y Axis movement

A couple of things.
That is 2 perimeters and with out knowing the source file I wouldn't expect the walls to touch with no infill.  The good news here is it looks like most of the issues you are having come down to simple user error.
Look in the Config tab of R-H find EEPROM and tell us what the steps per mm are set at for :E
Then spent some time navigating Slic3r and find "extrusion multiplier"
From what I can see in the picture you have a loose belt so look around for something obvious.
By the way I don't know if you want everyone seeing pictures of your bike so you might want to look into how you're posting your pictures.

Printit Industries Model 8.10 fully enclosed CoreXY, Chamber heat
3-SD3's & a Workbench all fully enclosed, RH-Slic3r Win7pro, E3D V6, Volcano & Cyclops Hot End
SSR/500W AC Heated Glass Bed, Linear bearings on SS rods. Direct Drive Y-axis, BulldogXL
Thanks to all for your contributions

16

Re: no Y Axis movement

in the eeprom settings , steps per mm are set to 138.00 for E:  ... I've been tinkering with a lot of settings just to get to learn the software and i know exactly where the extrusion multiplier is. i understand i need to set this once i find the thickness of the 1mm walls or whatever wall thickness its supposed to be. 
I'm ok with the world knowing i have a bicycle and a sweet car. i'm not scared of the interwebs.

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Re: no Y Axis movement

138 seems high, call for 100 mm's and measure what enters the extruder.  Adjust that until it equals 100mm's.

Printit Industries Model 8.10 fully enclosed CoreXY, Chamber heat
3-SD3's & a Workbench all fully enclosed, RH-Slic3r Win7pro, E3D V6, Volcano & Cyclops Hot End
SSR/500W AC Heated Glass Bed, Linear bearings on SS rods. Direct Drive Y-axis, BulldogXL
Thanks to all for your contributions

18

Re: no Y Axis movement

ok i got a hold of a caliper...  i was able to get exactly 100mm extruding when editing the eprom at 100mm.
i printed a 20mm cube and the walls measure how to be 19.8 and 19.7 on other side.. the bottom portion of the box is slightly wider but not enough for the naked eye can tell.  just printing the cube you can tell how thick the bottom layer is because theres a gap there making where the wall starts protrude.
wall thickness  1.05,  1.15, 1.11, 1.05..
how close do these numbers need to be?

19

Re: no Y Axis movement

Wall thickness should be very close to .48 I assume you are still printing 2 perimeters.  You need to print one perimeter and adjust the extrusion multiplier until that single perimeter is .48mm's
Once you get that you'll need to address the belts.

Printit Industries Model 8.10 fully enclosed CoreXY, Chamber heat
3-SD3's & a Workbench all fully enclosed, RH-Slic3r Win7pro, E3D V6, Volcano & Cyclops Hot End
SSR/500W AC Heated Glass Bed, Linear bearings on SS rods. Direct Drive Y-axis, BulldogXL
Thanks to all for your contributions

20 (edited by kimchi_25rr 2014-12-21 09:48:05)

Re: no Y Axis movement

in the wiki video's it shows how to adjust the y and z belts but doesn't mention or show the X axis belt.. the belt running horizontally with the extruder.. Its a little more loose than the Y and Z belts but after staring at it for a while i don't see how to tighten it.  i've taken the sides off and see no way to adjust tension. I must be blind there has to be a way...

here's the cube
http://s1151.photobucket.com/user/Kimch … 9.jpg.html

so at .51 i can scale the extrusion multiplier to 82% correct? .82

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Re: no Y Axis movement

That depends where the multiplier is set right now.
For clarity there is no Z belt there are 2 y belts and a y-drive belt.  If those seem to be good leave them alone.
The X-axis belt is the one you are talking about and the adjustment would be on the extruder carriage.  Maybe someone with an SD4 can chime in or post a picture.  If it is loose that will cause a lot of different issues with your prints.

Printit Industries Model 8.10 fully enclosed CoreXY, Chamber heat
3-SD3's & a Workbench all fully enclosed, RH-Slic3r Win7pro, E3D V6, Volcano & Cyclops Hot End
SSR/500W AC Heated Glass Bed, Linear bearings on SS rods. Direct Drive Y-axis, BulldogXL
Thanks to all for your contributions