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Topic: tritan

Anyone had experience with it yet?  My work bought a roll for me to play with.

http://www.soliforum.com/misc.php?action=pun_attachment&item=6397&download=0

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SD2 with E3D, SD Press, Form 1+
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NYLON (taulman): http://www.soliforum.com/topic/466/nylon/

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Re: tritan

So? Hows it print? I am looking at some right now.

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Re: tritan

Stevos758 wrote:

So? Hows it print? I am looking at some right now.

I was hoping someone else would have already tried it by now.

My work has been moving offices for the past 3 weeks so I have had no printers to run it in. I should be back up and running next week (I hope).  I will report back as soon as I get some prints going.

What are you thinking of printing?

SD2 with E3D, SD Press, Form 1+
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NYLON (taulman): http://www.soliforum.com/topic/466/nylon/

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Re: tritan

Not sure.... I always get all this fancy stuff and never have anything usefull to print... LOL

I might print some bushings for a lathe i am restoring out of 645. Might give this stuff a go as well.

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Re: tritan

I got a chance to run a little bit of Tritan today. My initial test was a little but disappointing. Layers of test piece easily broke apart when bent & there was noticeable warping on part.

PVA Glue & Bed Temp @ 60C
Extruder Temp @ 260C

I will be increasing my temperatures and trying both PVA & clean glass next week.

SD2 with E3D, SD Press, Form 1+
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NYLON (taulman): http://www.soliforum.com/topic/466/nylon/

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Re: tritan

Ran again today:

Clean glass bed @85C
Extruder Temp @270C

Still noticeable warping. Layer bonding is better but nowhere near what you get with Nylon.


I am not impressed with Tritan so far.  I can't even think of a decent application where this could be used.

SD2 with E3D, SD Press, Form 1+
Filastruder
NYLON (taulman): http://www.soliforum.com/topic/466/nylon/

7

Re: tritan

That is good to know. I was doing some reading yesterday and came upon some other reviews that sounded similar. I wanted to check before I bought into it.

I haven't printed anything in 6 months. I am getting my printer back together and need to print some gears for a lathe. I am going to stick with 645 I think.

I have a sample of the 910 stuff from a long time ago. That stuff is amazing. I am wondering why its not being produced? Its stiff and hard to break. I'll shoot him an email and see.

Happy to see you are a moderator now!

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Re: tritan

Stevos758 wrote:

That is good to know. I was doing some reading yesterday and came upon some other reviews that sounded similar. I wanted to check before I bought into it.

I haven't printed anything in 6 months. I am getting my printer back together and need to print some gears for a lathe. I am going to stick with 645 I think.

I have a sample of the 910 stuff from a long time ago. That stuff is amazing. I am wondering why its not being produced? Its stiff and hard to break. I'll shoot him an email and see.

Happy to see you are a moderator now!


618 or 645 are definitely superior based on my previous tests.  I will continue to test Tritan but it's just not what I was hoping for.

Let me know what you find out about 910.

SD2 with E3D, SD Press, Form 1+
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NYLON (taulman): http://www.soliforum.com/topic/466/nylon/

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Re: tritan

Did you dry it?

Ulitmaker 2, a few repraps, Custom Big FFF 3D printer with heated chamber.

My Blog http://ggalisky.weebly.com/
My Youtube https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCXShYo … aDUpebDAOw

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Re: tritan

From Tom himself - I don't think he will mind If I post this.

Hey, Steve.....good to hear from you..!   Busy as all get out here...  Both 910 and 680 are very $$$ to mfg.  I'm working to get 680 released before end of year.
It's a great and easy line to print, but I have a very large min buy, so looking into getting some help...   Watch for it on the blogs till then.

Thanks  Tom

That is good news! I haven't tried the 680 but the 910 is definitely awesome! I cant wait!

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Re: tritan

Ggalisky wrote:

Did you dry it?

Yes. Ideas?

SD2 with E3D, SD Press, Form 1+
Filastruder
NYLON (taulman): http://www.soliforum.com/topic/466/nylon/

12

Re: tritan

DePartedPrinter wrote:

I got a chance to run a little bit of Tritan today. My initial test was a little but disappointing. Layers of test piece easily broke apart when bent & there was noticeable warping on part.

Hello,

At first I was having the same exact problem as you and was disappointed with Tritan. But then I emailed Taulman and he gave me a few suggestions to try. I will just paste what Tom said to try.

"1. If it delaminates, it just means the print temp needs to increase.  Keep in mind that the #1 variance we see in all printers is "set temp" vs "actual temp" and 282C is at the max
of a lot of units.  Tritan, like t-glase should look like clear water coming out of the nozzle onto previous layers.  Cloudy at all, means too cold.
2. Tritan needs very little retraction as it's not a "swelling" polymer like most.
3. Bump up your material multiplier to 1.1 - 1.2.   Again, Tritan doesn't swell and this makes for less material, so you need to compensate a bit.
4. Because Tritan doesn't swell, .3 and .35mm nozzles can make it stay to long in the melt zone and that will add bubbles.  If that's what you use, might try a .5mm"

For me the temperature was fine which I am printing at 290c with my heated bed at 90c. Just using clean borosilicate glass nothing else.  It was that my material multiplier was low for the layer bonding. Changed that and the prints are very strong. He also recommenced to use simplify3d and just use the "coast setting" which is for retraction. Which I ended up getting and with both Tritan and simplify3d I am getting very good prints!

Hopefully that helps, Tritan is pretty awesome.

Cameron

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Re: tritan

Thanks for the input. I will give it another try sometime soon and see if Tom's suggestions work.

Why would he not post this information somewhere? This is my pet peeve with Taulman...They offer very little guidance or suggestions on how the get the most out of their products.

SD2 with E3D, SD Press, Form 1+
Filastruder
NYLON (taulman): http://www.soliforum.com/topic/466/nylon/