You are not logged in. Please login or register.
SoliForum - 3D Printing Community → Solidoodle Discussion → Hot end colliding with print
I am very new to 3d printing, and just purchased a Solidoodle 3. I watched the setup videos and at least think i have it ok, except for once it gets about 5 or 6 layers in, it seems like the bed is not moving down enough, causing a really nasty looking bead, as it drags over plastic that is already hardened..
Any help would be appreciated, or even a starting point. I can provide any other info that anyone would need to aid in fixing this issue.
Here is a picture of it.
Spend some time at the WIKI you look to be over extruding. Focus on extrusion steps and extrusion multiplier. A single wall cube and a digital caliper reading .48 should be your goal.
I mention that because the Wiki will reference .42 which was for the older .35 nozzle.
Got a funky brim too - Not adhering and too much extrusion?
+1 on over extrusion
Ok will look into this, looking at the print, i came to the conclusion that I apparently leveled the bed incorrectly, which i found that i had, which made me look at all other settings, and setup procedures again.
I have right now .78 extruder multiplier, and seeing how that goes.. im almost there, and it doesn't seem to be colliding anymore.
Over extrusion and also bed leveling looking at that skirt.
Spend some time at the WIKI you look to be over extruding. Focus on extrusion steps and extrusion multiplier. A single wall cube and a digital caliper reading .48 should be your goal.
I mention that because the Wiki will reference .42 which was for the older .35 nozzle.
why did SD stop the .35 nozzle? .4 wont do as fine of details. is this the case also with the new printers/extruders? I was liking the aprentice features but dont want to cut tiny detail prints out
wardjr wrote:Spend some time at the WIKI you look to be over extruding. Focus on extrusion steps and extrusion multiplier. A single wall cube and a digital caliper reading .48 should be your goal.
I mention that because the Wiki will reference .42 which was for the older .35 nozzle.why did SD stop the .35 nozzle? .4 wont do as fine of details. is this the case also with the new printers/extruders? I was liking the aprentice features but dont want to cut tiny detail prints out
Users were experiencing a lot of clogging with the .35 and it really was a positive change for most. If you want the detail maybe consider upgrading to an E3D as it allows you the flexibility to change just the Nozzle and go as small as you'd like.
n2ri wrote:wardjr wrote:Spend some time at the WIKI you look to be over extruding. Focus on extrusion steps and extrusion multiplier. A single wall cube and a digital caliper reading .48 should be your goal.
I mention that because the Wiki will reference .42 which was for the older .35 nozzle.why did SD stop the .35 nozzle? .4 wont do as fine of details. is this the case also with the new printers/extruders? I was liking the aprentice features but dont want to cut tiny detail prints out
Users were experiencing a lot of clogging with the .35 and it really was a positive change for most. If you want the detail maybe consider upgrading to an E3D as it allows you the flexibility to change just the Nozzle and go as small as you'd like.
+1 on the clogging!
Also, remember that .35 vs .4 is only a difference of less than 2 thousandths of an inch...
was thinking the E3D was the way to go. wonder if the new SD printers use it? thats the 'boden type right"
and yes microns is what we are working with so a couple thousandths is a lot in this industry.
in N scale vehicles for instance that can mean the difference between side mirrors or not
and yes microns is what we are working with so a couple thousandths is a lot in this industry.
in N scale vehicles for instance that can mean the difference between side mirrors or not
Fair enough...I usually don't print things that small, but I did have an HO setup in the early years, so yeah...I can appreciate that.
Have you posted any photos of your N scale creations in the Sharing section? I apologize if I have not seen them.
was thinking the E3D was the way to go. wonder if the new SD printers use it? thats the 'boden type right"
and yes microns is what we are working with so a couple thousandths is a lot in this industry.
in N scale vehicles for instance that can mean the difference between side mirrors or not
New printers have their own hot-end, I heard talk of it being metal, but I'm pretty sure it won't be an E3D specifically.
A bowden extruder is a way of separating the extruder (motor + drivewheel, associated mass) from the hot end by feeding the filament through a flexible tube - this works like bicycle brakes, the whole thing is known as a bowden cable. Ultimaker is an example of good use of one: they go to some lengths to keep the mass of the moving head minimised, which allows for higher speeds. The disadvantage in all bowden setups is the springiness of the tube means the extrusion is not quite as accurate, and retraction is a big deal (needs around 3-4x what we use on our direct feed printers).
So it is printing well now.. I have pinpointed the problems, after a lot of reading and checking things over. The power supply is inadequate for this machine. I bought the machine used, and I am assuming this is the one that came with it. Takes forever to heat the bed up, and impossible to get it over 95 degrees. This is causing the abs not to stick (usually hovering around 90ish), warping and causing what you see. I looked at all the pieces that I had printed that had those issues, and everyone of them were warped right where the nozzle was running into the piece. So even with the less than spectacular power supply, im still getting semi decent prints, at least i think.
What is an e3d extruder?
What is an e3d extruder?
This thing
Technically it's a hot-end not an extruder, apologies if we get our terms mixed up but we're a bit lax sometimes! 
So it is printing well now.. I have pinpointed the problems, after a lot of reading and checking things over. The power supply is inadequate for this machine. I bought the machine used, and I am assuming this is the one that came with it. Takes forever to heat the bed up, and impossible to get it over 95 degrees. This is causing the abs not to stick (usually hovering around 90ish), warping and causing what you see. I looked at all the pieces that I had printed that had those issues, and everyone of them were warped right where the nozzle was running into the piece. So even with the less than spectacular power supply, im still getting semi decent prints, at least i think.
Try glass and a purple Glue Stick for the print bed...I run ABS at about 85c and have no issues with sticking; in fact I still need to pry the prints off with a chisel once the bed cools to 40c!
SoliForum - 3D Printing Community → Solidoodle Discussion → Hot end colliding with print
Powered by PunBB, supported by Informer Technologies, Inc.
