DIY Aluminium 3D-Printer, build 2 (page 4) (Page 1 of 7)

Yeah, I was pretty impressed how steady the lower frame was when I put it together!  However it might be that I need to make straight plate where attach each corner. Because when evertyhing was put together, one corner was 1-2mm in air. However it doesn't need much pressure to put it down. Possibly that settles down when just accurately set everything in place.

Yes there is no room to use whole ped. Build area is going to be 150mm x 150mm so I'm not using whole capasity of bed. Actually I understood that just now Somehow I had visualization that the bed have 150x150 heated area but really it has 200x200. That's okay still.

Acme thread would be better of course, but first I try with normal metric rod because it is very much cheaper! If it doesn't work any good I'll try something else.

I understand you! That was the decision what I made also but decided to build my own Probably because I have NC-Lathe in use and materials costs nothing. It is fun to plan and make parts!

Thanks!

There are many reasons to use prusa-style movements rather than x-y bed, I know that. Prusa-style is tested in many variations and it works really good. It might be little stupid to do not use that kind of structure, but I want to test this x-y bed. Maybe problems are caused mainly by printed parts? I'm using machined aluminium parts which have better accuracy and they are stronger.

Weight is problem also. I have tried to design all the beds parts to be as light as possible! I'm also planning to build "billet extruder" from aluminium also, so that weight bit more than printed extruder. But that is somewhere in the future when printer is already working.

Let's see how it works Today I'm going to make more parts after my workaday. I'll add photos of them when they are ready.

Biggest problem with this design is weight (you already mentioned that). Since you are using all CNC metal parts, you have eliminated a lot of problems with other designs. What I see a big problem here is that you have so much weight making the X part of the bed move, you may have designed yourself right out of using the cheap stepper drivers used with most 3D printer electronics used today. They max out at 2 Amps (with extra cooling). Even if the higher torque stepper motors is enough to move the bed, momentum and mass will not allow you to have speed.

If you do switch the X axis onto the Z, you would eliminate most of that weight.

More photos!

And thanks for replies! It's nice to see my work to interest people

Haha, nice to hear that you like! Sadly those are only brass parts that I'm making

Well, maybe I first try to get this ready

There is photo in attachment. It is assembled "antibacklash nut". It works pretty well, just need to fine tune length of springs.

Beautiful!

Thanks for everybody! Steampunk printer would be nice

Okay, today I made "Z-axis-raisers" which become attached to V-style part so it raises the attachmen point by 60mm. And also top part of the Z-axis. They have little ball bearing inside them which holds Z-screw in line. Made also threads to earlier parts (v-style, extruder bar attachment)

Postman brought me 10pcs LM12UU linear bearings, and 1kg of 1.75mm abs filament! Tomorrow I can make bearing blocks for them. Rest of printer parts might arrive tomorrow!

that's awesome and thnks for sharing your experience.

That is a work of art! Well-done toobyaas!

Wow.

Thanks to all! It's so nice to see people liking my work I always do work like a crazy when I exited of something For now I've used ~15h for planning and ~29h for making parts. In this week I have done every day about five hours my parts after eight hour shift

IronMan, thanks for the tip! I will try that if following doesn't help.
Okay, I'll answer to myself! There should be three jumpers under every stepper driver. By taking all three off, I should reach full stepping! This is quite necessary, because when I put needed steps/mm, it feels like driver goes crazy. Motor just don't move like it should. Anyway microstepping is unecessary because  1/16 step gives theoretically 0,0003125mm movement..

Can't wait to get home and test these things! By the way, do anyone know what is the speed  of movement when moving axis from LCD controller?