1 (edited by napples 2017-02-13 20:00:05)

Topic: Motor Clogged?

I finally completed my assembly on friday, ran the machine for a few hours, no issues. Came into work today, ran it for a few more hours, then suddenly it stops working. I turned the CC dial on stall protection board a couple turns clockwise and the motor kicked back on and sputtered out shortly after. Which is why I believe it's a clog. My fans run, everything's lit up, and it kind of sounds like the motor is trying to spin. I'm trying to remove the barrel to see whats going on, I'm using vice grips near the threads of my attachment and can't get it to release. Or is it possible that my clog is on the nozzle end as this is basically one of my first runs?

Very confused, nothing changed and now it isn't working, any ideas would be greatly appreciated

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2

Re: Motor Clogged?

I did just realize that I no longer have my 1-2mm clearance space with the augur shaft, it's been so long since I did the mechanical assembly that I don't remember how I set up that gap, is there an easy way once I'm already at the assembled state?

3

Re: Motor Clogged?

I too double checked my clearance, since I was not confident that I had the load of the screw on the housing vs the gear box.

Here is what I did...

1. heated the head to 195
2. Waited 30 min
3. Took the four bolts out of the housing for the screw assembly (big ones around the metal tube with the auger in it)
4. Pull the screw assembly forward, which should let you trouble shoot the motor, since it's not attached  to a load anymore
5. Loosened the locking collar to insure that it moved freely (the thing that the bearings and washers press against)
6. Make some proof mark to measure your up coming effort
6.5 You may need to remove the motor to get proper pressure on the screw (depends on how long your wires are)
7. Manually press on the back of the screw (I used a socket wrench to turn it while adding pressure)
8. Once the screw has moved forward test fit it and find a few mm of play
9. Lock the collar in place and reassemble

This took me two tries to insure I was happy with the results. I consistently run at .70A so its good.
Also double check that you are getting up to temp on the head and giving enough time for the plastic to, well, get plastic enough to move.

Of course, you could follow the directions for removal of the head and begin trouble shooting from there.
One thought is to reverse the polarity of the motor and let it do the work of pulling the auger forward. I could see this going badly and tearing the crap out of your head, while removing the barrel from the base.

4

Re: Motor Clogged?

napples wrote:

I did just realize that I no longer have my 1-2mm clearance space with the augur shaft, it's been so long since I did the mechanical assembly that I don't remember how I set up that gap, is there an easy way once I'm already at the assembled state?

Sounds like this is your problem. Options are to push the auger into the barrel (with the barrel heated up) and reposition the shaft collar, or add some spacers between the gear motor and chassis.

5 (edited by napples 2017-02-14 17:09:44)

Re: Motor Clogged?

elmoret wrote:
napples wrote:

I did just realize that I no longer have my 1-2mm clearance space with the augur shaft, it's been so long since I did the mechanical assembly that I don't remember how I set up that gap, is there an easy way once I'm already at the assembled state?

Sounds like this is your problem. Options are to push the auger into the barrel (with the barrel heated up) and reposition the shaft collar, or add some spacers between the gear motor and chassis.

hm. Latter seems way easier. You're saying to add extra wood washers where I already have them, right?

Nevermind. I think I know what you mean. Won't be able to go this route because my motor wires would be too short to reach stall protection board, doesn't seem wise to extend them. Heating my nozzle now, going to try and move it and adjust the collar. Once I  pulled the augur off the motor I tried turning it on, and of course it spun, so we're narrowing down the issue for sure

6

Re: Motor Clogged?

You shouldn't have anything between the gear motor and chassis at the moment.

7

Re: Motor Clogged?

elmoret wrote:

You shouldn't have anything between the gear motor and chassis at the moment.

Sorry didnt think you'd be responding right now, edited my post too slow so bumping for you to see

8

Re: Motor Clogged?

http://soliforum.com/i/?RShXrOA.jpg

Looks like I have plenty of gap from the collar, but my shaft is bent to hell? Would that explain why nothing's working lol?

9

Re: Motor Clogged?

I even tried reversing the polarity of the motor, I can't get this thing to budge at all. When assembling I remember thinking I left too much of a gap for the collar, would that wiggle room ever change? I can't test it unless I can separate the augur from the shaft, but I believe I should still have significant play where the augur meets the motor. I think it jammed somewhere at a bent piece and then turning the stall prevention board 2 turns gave it more force to torque the shaft? If the collar moving during normal operation seems abnormal, then I'd say its almost guaranteed that I still have my gap, because I managed to get probably 4-6 hours of extrusion before I hit this point.

10

Re: Motor Clogged?

napples wrote:

Won't be able to go this route because my motor wires would be too short to reach stall protection board, doesn't seem wise to extend them. Heating my nozzle now, going to try and move it and adjust the collar. Once I  pulled the augur off the motor I tried turning it on, and of course it spun, so we're narrowing down the issue for sure

How would the motor wires be too short to reach the stall protection board? The gear motor and the stall protection board would-be moved backwards, the relative position of them to each other is unchanged since the stall protection board is mounted to the gearbox.

No issue extending the wires, at any rate.

11

Re: Motor Clogged?

That bent barrel (what I think you're calling a "shaft") is bad news. It means that the motor has been turned on when the rest of the auger could not rotate for some reason, perhaps before the plastic has melted. The stall protection board should prevent this occurring, but that is only a safeguard.

I don't know what is meant by "too much of a gap for the collar". During assembly there should be no gap between the shaft collar and the thrust bearing. The shaft collar/thrust bearing stack should be pushed towards the gear motor, so there are no gaps there. With the shaft collar/thrust bearing stack fully compressed, there should still be a few millimeters of axial play on the hex socket. If when fully assembled the hex socket has no axial play (the 1-2mm talked about in the instructions), then either the shaft collar was placed in the wrong position during assembly, or it slipped during use (wasn't tightened sufficiently during assembly). I suspect the latter in this case.

Next steps to repair are to heat up the barrel and extract the auger from the barrel. Once the barrel is bent it is not usable, but we do provide inexpensive replacements. Best to order through the contact form on the Filastruder website.

12 (edited by napples 2017-02-15 20:52:56)

Re: Motor Clogged?

How would it jam due to unmelted plastic if it jammed while extruding plastic? I heated the barrel to ~250C for a while yesterday and tried freeing the augur, including reversing the motor. Not sure how else I'm supposed to get it free other than pouring acetone down there? And yeah, I see what you're saying about the motor wires now. I wasn't looking at the unit when I responded and I guess I pictured it a little different in my head.

But there's no warranty or replacement coverage on any of these parts? Barrel bent during normal operation in such a short time I haven't even gotten the particles to stop showing up in the filament yet, we're within 8 hours of use still.. [edit: just wanna clarify I'm not getting salty, only seemed worth asking. Plus, I went to the store page and couldn't find the barrel separate?]

13

Re: Motor Clogged?

As far as I can tell, the initial motor stall event resulted from the shaft collar being positioned incorrectly, or slipping due to not being tightened sufficiently during assembly. That is what caused the motor to stop initially. It is hard to say when the barrel bent, but if I had to guess it occurred after the stall protection board's limit was increased, and then the motor was switched on before the plastic had fully melted.

Pouring acetone down the barrel is not likely to help, and will make future heating of the barrel dangerous. Given that the barrel is deformed, it will take some significant force to slide the auger out of the barrel, with the plastic heated above melting temperature. I've done it before two different ways:

1.) Use a long C-clamp to press the auger out, pushing from the nozzle side of the barrel.
2.) Use a set of pliers around the auger, between the shaft collar and flange to pry/work the auger out of the barrel.

You may elect to replace the auger and barrel instead of attempting to extract the auger, that's up to you.

It would also be a good idea to check the internals of the gearbox for damage from the thrust force ending up on the gearbox.

Replacement parts are provided in the case of something being defective/DOA, but given that it is a kit we cannot cover damage resulting from incorrect assembly. We have no way of knowing if it was assembled correctly, stall protection was set correctly, etc. What we do is provide inexpensive (i.e. our cost, no profit) replacement parts after talking through the situation with the customer so that the scenario is not repeated.

If we just put parts on the website, folks would be likely to repeat the same mistakes and become frustrated. That is why parts can be requested via the contact form on the Filastruder website (mentioned in previous post). I'm happy to provide a replacement barrel at no cost in this case.

14

Re: Motor Clogged?

Understood. Thanks very much, sent an email to ya. Just realized I've seen some posts where it seems different kits have varying diameters for the augur and barrel? Will you need to know which kit I have?