Re: Is there something else I can use besides the glu stick
Have some tried plain wax paper, it has a textured but smooth surface and can withstand heat?
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SoliForum - 3D Printing Community → XYZ Printing DaVinci → Is there something else I can use besides the glu stick
Have some tried plain wax paper, it has a textured but smooth surface and can withstand heat?
Another vote for hair spray here. I played with builds not sticking and over-sticking for six months before I tried it, and now I wouldn't use anything else. Aquanet Super Hold if you can get it.
That said if you've let a piece cool for an hour and it's still not coming off, put the whole plate in the freezer. I've never seen that fail.
+ 1 for auanet I have the all weather extra super Hold IIRC about $1.89 at the local wall mart.
Prints hold nice . let the print cool overnight and easily pops off in the morning.
I purchased a pack of glue sticks but have yet to use them.
Tin
Well, after 17 hours of printing and then sitting overnite, I tried to remove my new birdhouse and cracked the heated glass bed. This is the second time this has happened.
What can I use besides glue? Am I doing something wrong?
I appreciate any help. Thanks
You can purchase a special tape called buildtak
Has no one here heard of Kapton Tape? I thought almost all 3D printers that used ABS on a heated bed used Kapton tape. My 10 year old Cupcake was setup to do that. You can but the stuff in a 2 inch wide roll for about 15 bucks. Place a layer on your print bed and it will be good for 20+ prints before you need to replace it. While it is hot the ABS will stick like glue but once it cools the part will lift right off. I can't believe I have not seen a mention of it as I thought it was what everyone used.
The best method I have found is as follows;
Combination of 3M decorators blue masking tape AND a glue stick
The prints adhere every time without fail and you can just peel off the tape when the prints are finished
Regards
Grant
the Kapton tape bare dont work so good most times
The odd time that the print sticks, I found that using a wet paper towel to drip some water onto the bed around the print and letting the water find it's way under the print helps. The bed needs to be cool so that the cooler water won't crack the glass. This works because the glue dissolves in the water and then you can easily remove the print.
A lite coating of hair spray works well
I use a big can of $0.99 stuff
Just a little bit of laquer sticks like crazy
the Kapton tape bare dont work so good most times
Kapton is all I ever use. As long as your gap between the bed and is extruder is around .15 or less I use manual calibration and a feeler gauge it will stick like glue every time as long as the bed is at 110 or higher. For PLA 90 and bare glass is fine. Once the Kapton or glass cools the part will snap off with little effort and sometimes with PLA it just be setting there and not stuck at all once cool. I have never had Kapton fail me as long as the bed is set at .15 or less. If I know I am going to be printing at .1 then I will set the bed to .05 or less. As long as it is not so close that it barely smears a layer down it will be fine. Just make sure the gap is never larger than .15.
I had this problem some time ago. I resolved it by using MASKING TAPE (4"-Blue from Amazon) and covering the glass heated bed with the tape. This works even with a cracked bed since they cose ~$100 to replace. If I need an adhesive (I usually don't) I use a slurry made from Acetone and ABS Plastic (Just dissolve some of the ABS Filament in Acetone). Using a paper towel I swipe the print bed (with the blue tape in place) with the slurry. The parts stay connected to the bed. You might also use Kapton Tape which is supposed to be better with ABS (I have not tried this as the blue painters tape works quite well and is a lot cheaper).
I also use Simplify3d for the final stage before printing. Simplify3d has lots of adjustments for better results. They also have a troubleshooting guide for almost all of the problems you'll run into.
My bed is cracked now too and my solution was to cover it with a 3mm aluminium plate held down with bulldog clips. I then covered the plate with a Buildtak sheet which works great with no adhesive.
i had the problem with the glass plate too, i use the abs acetone slurry, but i also went down to lowes and bought a glass plate cut to size so that i wouldn't have to worry about the cracks or chips showing in my prints. you can also find replacement print beds on ebay from time to time, though i don't know if there are any available right now.
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