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SoliForum - 3D Printing Community → XYZ Printing DaVinci → Glue stick?
Gang,
I don't understand why they provided the glue stick, when I print using the glue stick it's harder to get my printed object off the glass. When I print without the glue it comes off fine.. does everyone use the glue or no glue?
I use the glue. I believe the glue was to get the first layer to stick better. Once it's cooled off, I don't generally have a problem removing items. I also use a razor blade to get it started though if I do.
I can't get the first layer to lay down properly WITHOUT the glue stick. I even tried another brand and gave up and ordered more of the Uhu stic. You do have to wait for it to cool down before it will pop off though. If you listen, you can hear the ABS pop when it's cooling down.
If you guys are able to print fine without glue or some other type of solution (hairspray, ABS juice, etc) then you are one of a very very tiny group of people.
The idea with the glue stick is that when it is over 55degC, it bonds the ABS to the heated bed.
You can skip using the glue stick if:
1 - you have calibrated your filament's optimum printing temperature, along with heatbed temperature
2 - If you have good quality dry abs
In most other cases, apply a thin layer to the cold bed, and that should last you 5-10 prints without re applying, but you have to let the bed cool down completely.
If you need to remove the buildup of glue on your bed, wipe with a soggy kitchen towel, leave for half a minute, and use your scraper to scrape off the glue. repeat. (I also give it a good scrub with a cloth soaked in alcohol for good measure)
I almost never use the glue stick. I've only used it a couple of times on 1 micron layer prints, or for ones with a very small base just to keep the first layer from sliding and balling up. But even that wasn't enough to print a llama for my daughter that only had the 4 hooves on the glass, and nothing holding them in place. I think that was also partly due to not having all 4 flat on the glass without modifying the design. I keep the printer at 2 micro layers, and don't bother with glue.
piercedtiger - do you mean 100 micron? 0.1mm?
I rarely use glue stick, but when I need it, it works great. I recommend the Elmer's washable that has a slight purple tint to it. It becomes clear during use, but for cleanup, run your printed object under some water. The glue turns purple again, so it's easy to see and ensure that all is removed from your printed item before finishing or painting.
95% of the time, I print directly to the kapton with excellent results. 4% of the time, I'm printing something that's either thin, or has other physical considerations that make it want to curl...then it's gluestick time. About 1% of the time I have an object that is either very tall in relation to its base area, or simply has very little base area...blue painter's tape on the kapton. I have a profile in my printer settings that sets my Z height up .1mm to accomodate the tape thickness.
I should add that since I recently added a 40mm fan and shroud that blows on the nozzle orifice, I haven't used glue stick at all.
I have difficulty understanding why so many people have to resort to glass plates, ABS/acetone slurry, etc. to get good results; I'm lucky I guess.
knowack - you put kapton tape/blue tape on your Da Vinci printer heated bed glass?
I rarely use glue stick, but when I need it, it works great. I recommend the Elmer's washable that has a slight purple tint to it. It becomes clear during use, but for cleanup, run your printed object under some water. The glue turns purple again, so it's easy to see and ensure that all is removed from your printed item before finishing or painting.
95% of the time, I print directly to the kapton with excellent results. 4% of the time, I'm printing something that's either thin, or has other physical considerations that make it want to curl...then it's gluestick time. About 1% of the time I have an object that is either very tall in relation to its base area, or simply has very little base area...blue painter's tape on the kapton. I have a profile in my printer settings that sets my Z height up .1mm to accomodate the tape thickness.
I should add that since I recently added a 40mm fan and shroud that blows on the nozzle orifice, I haven't used glue stick at all.
I have difficulty understanding why so many people have to resort to glass plates, ABS/acetone slurry, etc. to get good results; I'm lucky I guess.
How are you powering the fan and how did you mount it to the carriage as I've considered adding one as well.
Oh, sorry guys. I saw the glue stick thread, and didn't realize this was a DaVinci forum area. I'm using an SD4.
Ok so if you are having problems with the glue or the plastic not sticking to the bed, you must re-calibrate the bed. DO NOT USE THE AUTO BED CALIBRATION OPTION!!!! CALIBRATE THE BED MANUALLY!!! To do so, get a small strip of printer paper and start a print. turn the printer off while it is printing the purge line (line printed on the side of the bed before printing to get the ABS running), by doing this you will be able to move the print head around manually. Move the print head to one of the front corners (not on the metal corner, just near that on the glass) and place the paper strip under the extruder nozzle and adjust the bed screw until the nozzle just barely touches the paper. Do this for the other corner and the corner in the back. After you have adjusted all corners, double check them because by adjusting one corner may raise/lower the oppisite corner. This fixed all my bed problems like a miracle and the filament sticks well without glue or anything else! this will only work with a heated bed if you are printing with ABS.
Ok so if you are having problems with the glue or the plastic not sticking to the bed, you must re-calibrate the bed. DO NOT USE THE AUTO BED CALIBRATION OPTION!!!! CALIBRATE THE BED MANUALLY!!! To do so, get a small strip of printer paper and start a print. turn the printer off while it is printing the purge line (line printed on the side of the bed before printing to get the ABS running), by doing this you will be able to move the print head around manually. Move the print head to one of the front corners (not on the metal corner, just near that on the glass) and place the paper strip under the extruder nozzle and adjust the bed screw until the nozzle just barely touches the paper. Do this for the other corner and the corner in the back. After you have adjusted all corners, double check them because by adjusting one corner may raise/lower the oppisite corner. This fixed all my bed problems like a miracle and the filament sticks well without glue or anything else! this will only work with a heated bed if you are printing with ABS.
it will also work on PLA and heated glass as well.
Even if you do manual level you still may want to use glue for large or dense prints as your edges and corners will lift due to uneven cooling. I was a firm believer in bare glass or Kapton only but due to the way this bed is heated and monitored the center stays much hotter by nearly 50 degrees than the edges where the actual thermistor is located. It need to be in the center but hat would be hard the way the bed has a plastic support.
I stopped using glue sticks when I discovered ABS juice (Acetone + ABS, which is a good use for scrap bits of ABS). It bonds nicely and gives the bottom a nice smooth finish
I'm wondering if my UHU stick glue quit working because of the changes I made to my Da Vinci 1.0. I changed from black to purple filament and started immediately getting print failures. So I re calibrated then did the paper calibration as specified here, but I also did the filament hack when I replaced my filament and changed the settings; for the bed to 94 degrees and for the filament 127 degrees. I also ran out of the UHU that came with my XYZ printer which I think was white UHU, and bought the clear UHU which isn't sticking well, so I have to use a raft every time I print; and the raft comes right off even immediately after the print finishes, without any force what so ever. So what do you think the main problem is; the bed temperature is to high? The clear UHU instead of white UHU? Cheap purple filament? something else or a combination? BTW, I tried printing directly to the glass without glue and that was a mess of filament.
on my Da Vinci 1.0 I stopped using glue sticks and now just use a cheapo hairspray. You lay down a few layers then just top off when needed. If you use glue sticks wait until the plate is cool and it should come off easy.
Pete
I switched to a Buildtak sheet recently. It works great with no glue/tape/hairspray etc.
You still need to get the bed height just right but once done, your prints just stick and pop off when cool.
Works with PLA and ABS.
Hi all, I am new to this site but have been reading about items not sticking on Da Vinci Jr 1.0 using PLA. My unit came with 4 sheets of masking tape to lay on the bed, that worked great and I got many wonderful self sticking prints and had to replaced that tape after many uses. when I ran out and wanted to be cheap I got off the shelf masking tap roll 6 inches wide and thought it would work great, well it didn't and nothing would stick to it. I then tried the blue painters tape, I bought 10 sheets 8x8 inches for about $ 13.00 at a local store. they worked great but I found that I would either rip the tape as I removed the part or the scraper would gouge the tape bad enough that I had to replace it. I was lucky to get about 3 prints from the blue tape.
I then looked up the specs on the beige masking tape I got and noticed its temp range was not very high, so I started looking and found a high temp tape and though this might be the trick. I ordered from amazon 50 sheets 6x6 inches for about $ 47.00 and tried a sample print right a way, the prints stick just fine and as well as the original tape I got with my unit. I have since done about 4 more prints on the same sheet of tape with out any sticking problems. well except that it seems to stick too well and if I am not carful I make brake the part taking it off the tape.
from amazon
3M 501+ 6" x 6"-50 High Temperature Masking Tape 6" Squares, Crepe Paper, Tan (Pack of 50) $38.34
hope this helps
Hi all, I am new to this site but have been reading about items not sticking on Da Vinci Jr 1.0 using PLA. My unit came with 4 sheets of masking tape to lay on the bed, that worked great and I got many wonderful self sticking prints and had to replaced that tape after many uses. when I ran out and wanted to be cheap I got off the shelf masking tap roll 6 inches wide and thought it would work great, well it didn't and nothing would stick to it. I then tried the blue painters tape, I bought 10 sheets 8x8 inches for about $ 13.00 at a local store. they worked great but I found that I would either rip the tape as I removed the part or the scraper would gouge the tape bad enough that I had to replace it. I was lucky to get about 3 prints from the blue tape.
I then looked up the specs on the beige masking tape I got and noticed its temp range was not very high, so I started looking and found a high temp tape and though this might be the trick. I ordered from amazon 50 sheets 6x6 inches for about $ 47.00 and tried a sample print right a way, the prints stick just fine and as well as the original tape I got with my unit. I have since done about 4 more prints on the same sheet of tape with out any sticking problems. well except that it seems to stick too well and if I am not carful I make brake the part taking it off the tape.
from amazon
3M 501+ 6" x 6"-50 High Temperature Masking Tape 6" Squares, Crepe Paper, Tan (Pack of 50) $38.34hope this helps
For PLA you could use Kapton tape or even just glass with hairspray as long as the bed is heated. The Blue tape is actually used on non heated beds. It is the heat that makes PLA not stick to the Blue tape. If the bed is left cool and you used the Blue tape is would stick. Makerbots all have non heated beds and use the Blue Tape.
3M 501+ 6" x 6"-50 High Temperature Masking Tape 6" Squares, Crepe Paper, Tan (Pack of 50) $38.34
hope this helps
So why not buy the 60 yard roll for 33.08 and have 360 sheets
Imho, the first couple of layers is all that really matters. I have done a number of tests on my Mini W, and found that in a relatively cold room (70 df), if I use the blue painters tape, and simply use a heat gun on low temp to carefully warm the plate to approx 100-110 degrees, it works like a charm. No need to glue, etc, and I get excellent adhesion yet the completed part is pretty easy to remove. Obviously, the plate begins to cool immediately after you begin the print, but by the time it gets back down to room temp, you've already built up a number of layers and the bottom most few are rigid and tend not to warp at the point. I also make sure to calibrate before every print. Works for me.
SoliForum - 3D Printing Community → XYZ Printing DaVinci → Glue stick?
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