1

Topic: Non-XYZ filament tips and recommendations (Jr & Mini)

For those of you who swapped tags, have old Jr firmware or using an emutag. Which kinds of filaments have you tried and what is your experience?

PETG? Ninjaflex? Laywood? Glow-in-dark filaments? etc.

I've got like ~1800m XYZprinting PLA left so I'm not really interested in the nfc-tag-resetting to be able to buy cheaper filament. I want to be able to try filaments that XYZprinting does not offer.

2 (edited by CoolArts 2017-01-26 20:47:54)

Re: Non-XYZ filament tips and recommendations (Jr & Mini)

I tested out ICE and AnyCubic PLA Filaments. In my opinion both of them are better and have a better finish than XYZ filaments. I have an unopened roll of Glow from PrimaSelect, once i've tested it i will tell you my opinion.

From AnyCubic and ICE i like more the finishing of ICE.

I also tried to print FLEX filament from ICE at 204º (the only temperature i can print for now), but the material flows from the noozle constantly make it unable to print nothing. Also it doesn't stick in the platform, so what i get is a noozzle totaly covered with a huge ball of material.

Best regards!,
CoolArts.

XYZ Junior/Mini Passwords Thread
If you are in a hurry and need your password NOW, or if it takes me too long for you, you can read the posts from 1851. I'm not going to be as effective as Bozo or Cgrillo, but you can give a try with me. If PASSWORDS thread follow it's current flow: asking for repeated passwords, not returning or false PACKS... I will end up with it as others before me.

3

Re: Non-XYZ filament tips and recommendations (Jr & Mini)

I use these guys for PLA
http://shop.3dfilaprint.com/
Or use Hatchbox PLA - available from other places e.g amazon.
I have had no problems with either of these 2 - just remember to print at 210 degrees and not 190 (may need to alter tag)..

4

Re: Non-XYZ filament tips and recommendations (Jr & Mini)

CoolArts wrote:

I tested out ICY and AnyCubic Filaments. In my opinion both of them are better and have a better finish than XYZ filaments. I have an unopened roll of Glow from PrimaSelect, once i've tested it i will tell you my opinion.

From AnyCubic and ICY i like more the finishing of ICY.

I also tried to print FLEX filament from ICY at 204º (the only temperature i can print for now), but the material flows from the noozle constantly make it unable to print nothing. Also it doesn't stick in the platform, so what i get is a noozzle totaly covered with a huge ball of material.

Best regards!,
CoolArts.


Flex requires a heated bed which the JR and mini do not have.. You also cannot use flex on a bowden system well just for info. That is a system where the extruder motor feeds through a tube to the head. Really the only thing the mini and JR can print is PLA without some mods.

Printing since 2009 and still love it!
Anycubic 4MAX best $225 ever invested.
Voxelabs Proxima SLA. 6 inch 2k Mono LCD.
Anycubic Predator, massive Delta machine. 450 x 370 print envelope.

5 (edited by CoolArts 2017-01-28 15:11:38)

Re: Non-XYZ filament tips and recommendations (Jr & Mini)

Today i've been printing some more materials, i've tested out the glow from PrimaSelect, finishings are so good.

I've also been printing Carbon fiber from ICE with excelent results, but i had to make some configurations to get good prints. I had to raise z-axis 0.45 mm to enable the printer to right print the Carbon. Also i've inyected temperature to my XYZ 3w files.

I've been using threedub for this.
Jr + Cura 2.3.0 + ThreeDub

kr15_uk wrote:

1. Download ThreeDub - threedub master (thanks to forum member @Anthem for making this)
2. Install HomeBrew on your Mac
3. brew install python
4. pip install --upgrade pip
5. pip install pycrypto
6. pip install pyserial
7. python setup.py install (from downloaded threedub directory)

I make the 3w file from xyzWare, then i convert it to gcode with threedub from terminal

threedub -f gcode source.3w target.gcode

I open the gcode with any text editor, and i mean "any". Just after the last comment line on header i add 2 lines "Comment lines are the ones preceded by ';'":

Edit -- A: Maybe they're not comment lines since changes on lines preceded by ";" are recognized by the printer. I changed that way the expected filament usage to 0.35 (less than a milimeter), and wile printing LCD shows 1 minute left and 100% completed, but the tag substracted more than 3 meters as expected. B: Temperatures can be inyected at the beginning of the file as well.

M104 S(Temperature in celsius)
M109 S(same temperature)

Example for carbon 240º:
M104 S240
M109 S240

I think that each command is for a single extruder (right & left), but i didn't tested it, i'm just adding those 2 lines to all files i modify.

Edit -- B (single extruder (right & left)): Wrong! As found on Gitlab Threedub by James, thank you for threedub James!.

James wrote:

; M104  set temperature
; M109  wait for temperature to be reached

With that done, i remake the 3w from terminal, and copy it to the SD for print.

threedub source.gcode target.3w

The finishings of the Carbon are soooooo god, tomorrow i will try to upload some photos.

Beware because Carbon is much more delicate than PLA and the 2 times i've tried to unload Carbon, it brokes abobe the noozle head, and that forced me to unload filament manually, so be careful.

carl_m1968 wrote:

Flex requires a heated bed which the JR and mini do not have.. You also cannot use flex on a bowden system well just for info. That is a system where the extruder motor feeds through a tube to the head. Really the only thing the mini and JR can print is PLA without some mods.

Thank you very much for this info wink.

Regards!,
CoolArts.

XYZ Junior/Mini Passwords Thread
If you are in a hurry and need your password NOW, or if it takes me too long for you, you can read the posts from 1851. I'm not going to be as effective as Bozo or Cgrillo, but you can give a try with me. If PASSWORDS thread follow it's current flow: asking for repeated passwords, not returning or false PACKS... I will end up with it as others before me.

6 (edited by CoolArts 2017-01-26 20:49:46)

Re: Non-XYZ filament tips and recommendations (Jr & Mini)

CoolArts wrote:

I had to raise z-axis 0.45 mm to enable the printer to right print the Carbon

Wrong!, i'm having weird issues with z-axis, i printed Carbon again and z-axis only worked on it's default value again. So no need to raise Z-axis.

CoolArts wrote:

the 2 times i've tried to unload Carbon, it brokes abobe the noozle head

4 times now.


Results of Glow and Carbon

  • Following photos are adjusted and cutted very very quick, please don't judge.

  • The Boo is printed in PrimaSelect Glow and the base on ICE Carbon, with holes to stick the Glow Letters.

  • The carbon sands very well, before sanding have a touch filing to be something as a very very rought piece of cardboard (photo), after sand it the surface is very smooth (no photo).

http://soliforum.com/i/?py5GDAY.jpg
http://soliforum.com/i/?V0xJJ9B.jpg

Edit: This last one is f/4 with 15 secs of exposure.
http://soliforum.com/i/?9FCkyfG.jpg

XYZ Junior/Mini Passwords Thread
If you are in a hurry and need your password NOW, or if it takes me too long for you, you can read the posts from 1851. I'm not going to be as effective as Bozo or Cgrillo, but you can give a try with me. If PASSWORDS thread follow it's current flow: asking for repeated passwords, not returning or false PACKS... I will end up with it as others before me.

7

Re: Non-XYZ filament tips and recommendations (Jr & Mini)

Ladies and gents, just don't forget that Carbonfill, Woodfill and even glow in the dark is eating off your copper nozzle. Hence on Jr you can't simply swap the nozzle without changing whole print head - particle filled filament printing may become fairly costly short lived dream.

Will also add my filament experience on Jr
1. FlexTPU - with existing extruder design - no chance. But if you change extruder design and slow it down quite a bit - yep.
2. ABS with stock bed - glue stick on glass and objet no bigger than 10-15mm is possible.
3. ABS with heatbed - quite good results due to Jr design (enclosure) If you are interested into adding heatbed to your Jr - http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1931575
4. PETG - pretty good experience, cold bed again introduces size limitation but not as bad as ABS.
5. Taulman Bridge aka Nylon - printed quite few LM8UU replacements successfully on cold bed, never tried anything bigger though.

Also need to mention that I've upgraded my heater to 40w one of eBay to replace stock 25w because my Jr wasn't going higher than 215c.

Last thing, just because we are talking about upgrades... If you are planning to print particle filled filaments or you've already worn your hotend - upgrade to E3D v6 or Lite6 where you can change nozzles. Can run with stock firmware.
http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1724209

8 (edited by CoolArts 2017-01-24 13:55:45)

Re: Non-XYZ filament tips and recommendations (Jr & Mini)

kr15_uk wrote:

Also need to mention that I've upgraded my heater to 40w one of eBay to replace stock 25w because my Jr wasn't going higher than 215c.

I don't know if my junior is really reaching 240º, but indeed it shows me that temp on the LCD display. Also i think it does, because at 220º the carbon make a jam/or/clog (i can't differentiate those terms) in my printer, that doesn't happen when it prints it at 240º.

XYZ Junior/Mini Passwords Thread
If you are in a hurry and need your password NOW, or if it takes me too long for you, you can read the posts from 1851. I'm not going to be as effective as Bozo or Cgrillo, but you can give a try with me. If PASSWORDS thread follow it's current flow: asking for repeated passwords, not returning or false PACKS... I will end up with it as others before me.

9

Re: Non-XYZ filament tips and recommendations (Jr & Mini)

If anyone is looking to be adventurous and try a new filament brand then perhaps we can be of assistance.

Please excuse the marketing post:

We sell a range of PLA and ABS and have a few exotic filaments too. We also have some more exotic filaments on the way that should be really unusual and intriguing. Our filament is all high quality and comes in many vibrant colours.

If you are interested then please check out our website at www.3dexfilament.co.uk
If you want a sample of our filament then please get in touch at [email protected]

Regards,
Will,
3DEX

3Dex - Suppliers of the best filament.
http://www.3dexfilament.co.uk

10

Re: Non-XYZ filament tips and recommendations (Jr & Mini)

@CoolArts
Either your Jr is from newer batch where they supply them with 40w heaters stock or my one was faulty/on its last legs.
(I did bought my one in mid 2015 so both options might have been the case)

11 (edited by CoolArts 2017-01-24 15:02:38)

Re: Non-XYZ filament tips and recommendations (Jr & Mini)

Yup, that was what i thought when you wrote it.

And i take this time to thank you for all your support and time expent in the DaVinci Jr World.
Your NFC box to store the module, antenna and the TAG is great, i'm using it a while from now. It's saving me money cause since i'm using it i don't have any TAG errors MID print. Also you have pointed me to threedub and Cura. I don't like cura too much, but i've been watching how cura set things in gcodes and maded my way to fix the only thing that really disturbs me from XYZPrinting "THE DAMNED TEMP NFC LIMIT".

Best Regards!.
and thanks again!
CoolArts.

XYZ Junior/Mini Passwords Thread
If you are in a hurry and need your password NOW, or if it takes me too long for you, you can read the posts from 1851. I'm not going to be as effective as Bozo or Cgrillo, but you can give a try with me. If PASSWORDS thread follow it's current flow: asking for repeated passwords, not returning or false PACKS... I will end up with it as others before me.

12

Re: Non-XYZ filament tips and recommendations (Jr & Mini)

CoolArts wrote:

I open the gcode with any text editor, and i mean "any". Just after the last comment line on header i add 2 lines "Comment lines are the ones preceded by ';'":
Go to quoted post

A: Maybe they're not comment lines since changes on lines preceded by ";" are recognized by the printer. I changed that way the expected filament usage to 0.35 (less than a milimeter), and wile printing LCD shows 1 minute left and 100% completed, but the tag substracted more than 3 meters as expected.
B: Temperatures can be inyected at the beginning of the file as well.

XYZ Junior/Mini Passwords Thread
If you are in a hurry and need your password NOW, or if it takes me too long for you, you can read the posts from 1851. I'm not going to be as effective as Bozo or Cgrillo, but you can give a try with me. If PASSWORDS thread follow it's current flow: asking for repeated passwords, not returning or false PACKS... I will end up with it as others before me.

13

Re: Non-XYZ filament tips and recommendations (Jr & Mini)

CoolArts wrote:

I think that each command is for a single extruder (right & left), but i didn't tested it, i'm just adding those 2 lines to all files i modify.

Wrong! As found on Gitlab Threedub by James, thank you for threedub James!.

James wrote:

; M104  set temperature
; M109  wait for temperature to be reached

Regards!.

XYZ Junior/Mini Passwords Thread
If you are in a hurry and need your password NOW, or if it takes me too long for you, you can read the posts from 1851. I'm not going to be as effective as Bozo or Cgrillo, but you can give a try with me. If PASSWORDS thread follow it's current flow: asking for repeated passwords, not returning or false PACKS... I will end up with it as others before me.

14

Re: Non-XYZ filament tips and recommendations (Jr & Mini)

Has anyone tried the inland filaments?  They're really well priced, and seem to have good reviews everywhere I've read.

15 (edited by CoolArts 2017-02-08 17:04:59)

Re: Non-XYZ filament tips and recommendations (Jr & Mini)

contagon wrote:

Has anyone tried the inland filaments?  They're really well priced, and seem to have good reviews everywhere I've read.

I don't sorry.

Anyone tested out what is called "Advanced Pla"?, are the following measurements true?

3dfuel.com wrote:

As readed in 3dfuel.com U.S.A
eu.3dfuel.com Europe
Advanced PLA – Better than PLA and ABS

Advanced PLA filament is easier to print than standard PLA and is stronger, stiffer and tougher than ABS filament. Available in our full selection of colors, Advanced PLA sets a new standard in 3D printing.

Even though Advanced PLA has better strength and toughness than ABS, no heated bed is necessary for 3D printing. Also, unlike ABS, there is no warping or strong odor when 3D printing.

Need to 3D print heat resistant parts? Advanced PLA can be annealed after printing* to achieve heat resistance up to 144°C (291°F).

http://soliforum.com/i/?TmsxJNV.png



Edit: And this one? Glass Filled x1.9 flexibility

Regards!.

XYZ Junior/Mini Passwords Thread
If you are in a hurry and need your password NOW, or if it takes me too long for you, you can read the posts from 1851. I'm not going to be as effective as Bozo or Cgrillo, but you can give a try with me. If PASSWORDS thread follow it's current flow: asking for repeated passwords, not returning or false PACKS... I will end up with it as others before me.

16

Re: Non-XYZ filament tips and recommendations (Jr & Mini)

contagon wrote:

Has anyone tried the inland filaments?  They're really well priced, and seem to have good reviews everywhere I've read.

I buy them all the time from the local Microcenter. I have never had issues with that brand. I do however use almost exclusively PETG.

Printing since 2009 and still love it!
Anycubic 4MAX best $225 ever invested.
Voxelabs Proxima SLA. 6 inch 2k Mono LCD.
Anycubic Predator, massive Delta machine. 450 x 370 print envelope.

17

Re: Non-XYZ filament tips and recommendations (Jr & Mini)

This looks like great stuff, but it is expensive. I will be trying some though.

18 (edited by CoolArts 2017-02-08 18:52:40)

Re: Non-XYZ filament tips and recommendations (Jr & Mini)

I'm going to try it too, with black. I have it on shopping cart since this morning smile, just reading a bit more till ordering.

Regards!.

XYZ Junior/Mini Passwords Thread
If you are in a hurry and need your password NOW, or if it takes me too long for you, you can read the posts from 1851. I'm not going to be as effective as Bozo or Cgrillo, but you can give a try with me. If PASSWORDS thread follow it's current flow: asking for repeated passwords, not returning or false PACKS... I will end up with it as others before me.

19 (edited by CoolArts 2017-02-21 15:06:56)

Re: Non-XYZ filament tips and recommendations (Jr & Mini)

Can anyone recommend me any Wood filament that have "near really" or "really" wood finishings?, i mean that once printed it seems more like wood than plastic.

I've bought a wood filament time ago, but it's just PLA with "wood brown" color. Finishigs are just like PLA, but i want something with real wood finishings.

Advices will be much appreciated.
Regards!.

Edit: Answering myself, by going to the correct Forum section:
Soliforum -> Filament -> Hatchbox Wood filament
Soliforum -> Filament -> Where can I buy wood filament?
Regards!

XYZ Junior/Mini Passwords Thread
If you are in a hurry and need your password NOW, or if it takes me too long for you, you can read the posts from 1851. I'm not going to be as effective as Bozo or Cgrillo, but you can give a try with me. If PASSWORDS thread follow it's current flow: asking for repeated passwords, not returning or false PACKS... I will end up with it as others before me.

20

Re: Non-XYZ filament tips and recommendations (Jr & Mini)

kr15_uk wrote:

Ladies and gents, just don't forget that Carbonfill, Woodfill and even glow in the dark is eating off your copper nozzle. Hence on Jr you can't simply swap the nozzle without changing whole print head - particle filled filament printing may become fairly costly short lived dream.

I'm sorry if I ask the obvious, I'm totally new to 3d-printing and different filaments... What exactly do you mean with "eating off your copper nozzle"? Is it that it gets cloggy or destroyed by overheat or something else?

kr15_uk wrote:

3. ABS with heatbed - quite good results due to Jr design (enclosure) If you are interested into adding heatbed to your Jr - http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1931575

Do you think it's possible to glue/tape a small heater like this to the underside of the printing bed to warm it up a bit to prevent warping with larger PLA-prints? Will the temperature spread equally because of the aluminium plate (?) or will it only be hot near the heater?
Heater: https://www.conrad.se/V%E4rmefolie-Ther … 07_0506031
Controller: https://www.conrad.se/Temperaturbrytare … ;pi=191249

21 (edited by carl_m1968 2017-02-23 00:33:08)

Re: Non-XYZ filament tips and recommendations (Jr & Mini)

videtrombon wrote:
kr15_uk wrote:

Ladies and gents, just don't forget that Carbonfill, Woodfill and even glow in the dark is eating off your copper nozzle. Hence on Jr you can't simply swap the nozzle without changing whole print head - particle filled filament printing may become fairly costly short lived dream.

I'm sorry if I ask the obvious, I'm totally new to 3d-printing and different filaments... What exactly do you mean with "eating off your copper nozzle"? Is it that it gets cloggy or destroyed by overheat or something else?

kr15_uk wrote:

3. ABS with heatbed - quite good results due to Jr design (enclosure) If you are interested into adding heatbed to your Jr - http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1931575

Do you think it's possible to glue/tape a small heater like this to the underside of the printing bed to warm it up a bit to prevent warping with larger PLA-prints? Will the temperature spread equally because of the aluminium plate (?) or will it only be hot near the heater?
Heater: https://www.conrad.se/V%E4rmefolie-Ther … 07_0506031
Controller: https://www.conrad.se/Temperaturbrytare … ;pi=191249


Particle filled filaments are extremely abrasive and act like sand paper as they pass through the nozzles. Brass nozzles like most printers have are a very soft metal and the abrasive effect of the filament literally tears away small parts of the nozzle. Mind you the action is microscopic and takes a while to show any noticeable damage. But I can assure you if you run a full spool you will notice.

As for a bed heater, it needs to be the same size as the bed. Yes it will keep most of the heat localized to the heater area.

Printing since 2009 and still love it!
Anycubic 4MAX best $225 ever invested.
Voxelabs Proxima SLA. 6 inch 2k Mono LCD.
Anycubic Predator, massive Delta machine. 450 x 370 print envelope.

22 (edited by RDSK 2017-07-03 16:05:27)

Re: Non-XYZ filament tips and recommendations (Jr & Mini)

Hi
please what are the dimensions I need in terms of diameter, spindle hole and width fpr a generic spool that can fit exactly on the XYZ NFC tag holder and spindle?
Are Makerbot spools compatible with the Junior for example?
Is it worth paying more that £15 for 1kg of PLA or is all the basic PLA very similar?
Rupert

23

Re: Non-XYZ filament tips and recommendations (Jr & Mini)

RDSK wrote:

Hi
please what are the dimensions I need in terms of diameter, spindle hole and width fpr a generic spool that can fit exactly on the XYZ NFC tag holder and spindle?
Are Makerbot spools compatible with the Junior for example?
Is it worth paying more that £15 for 1kg of PLA or is all the basic PLA very similar?
Rupert



Not sure which XYZ printer you have, but have you ever considered moving the spool outside the printer? I have done this with my JR and I know people have done this with their Mini's. It's one of the simplest mods and makes using third party filament a breeze.

24

Re: Non-XYZ filament tips and recommendations (Jr & Mini)

videtrombon wrote:

Do you think it's possible to glue/tape a small heater like this to the underside of the printing bed to warm it up a bit to prevent warping with larger PLA-prints? Will the temperature spread equally because of the aluminium plate (?) or will it only be hot near the heater?
Heater: https://www.conrad.se/V%E4rmefolie-Ther … 07_0506031
Controller: https://www.conrad.se/Temperaturbrytare … ;pi=191249

I made a similar heatbed and it did wonders to prevent warping. The temp I reach when using less than 30W is above 'softening'. When I remove the test-strip it becomes one straight (so so..) line.
I use no temperature regulator.