ATLAS 3D Scanner Instructions (Page 2 of 3)

n2ri,

The statement means that ATLAS 3D does not come with the 26-pin cable that would be required for the Pi 1 B and that the Pi 1 B will not fit in the acrylic case.  We are sending you a 26-pin ribbon cable as a sign of good faith since you did not notice that the Pi 1 B was not supported.  The camera connects to the CSI slot which is closest to the USB and Ethernet ports.  This can be seen in the assembly videos and in the image below.

- Uriah

Hi-

I just received the kit from Murobo, with the acrylic enclosure.

[[original]]
I went ahead and picked up the Pi 2 B with it, but it does not seem to fit the enclosure.  Near as I can tell from looking at the pieces, there are holes to align with the various ports for power, usb, video.  But the alignment of the pi, when (loosely) bolted into the holes does not allow the enclosure to fit together, as the usb ports do not line up with the available space.
[[/original]]
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I had FD backwards.  I had the "LED hole" on the wrong side due to a misunderstanding entirely on my part.
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I would appreciate any feedback.  I have other Pis I could grab to use, but they are at home.

edit:  the button hole is also mis-aligned?

thanks, got it

I dont think this has been addressed yet. the rubber turnrable mat used is the same material sold to line kitchen drawer bottoms but has been found years ago when introduced that it attacks plastic much the same way that plastic/rubber fishing worms and other lures and is why Plano tackle boxes are made with what they call 'worm proof' plastic. I collect N scale trains and this was discovered long ago when some other train modelers ruined many of there plastic trains (even if painted) when this material ate into them melting the grid into them when used to pad containers for storing their trains. so it will likely do same to turn table and any plastic objects left on them very long. it also does it to plastic drawers.

also instruction video shows laser towers having all 3 mounting holes used, and the laser mounts secured with screws passing through a closed end on arms. the laser arms have an open screw hole/slot for this open at turntable side/front of scanner like a C. is this normal or has something been modified? when viewing STL in netfab it says theres errors and it shows the 3 mount holes and closed laser mount hole end also closed back on arm. but gcode dont show these. its open back like a bridge beam kinda.

Netfab says there are errors and has the triangle but when repaired I see no highlighted errors. and it looks fine as an STL but seems my old ver of Slic3r has developed a bug as when slicing many of these parts the Gcode states errors that it "tried to fix" and spits out Gcode that is wrong like the wide areas for screw heads/nuts often get made all the way through model either to the side or from top to bottom, and things like the closed back of the laser ASrms are open instead of the solid bottom as you poit out. so I have had Azerate make 5 of the parts for me rather than waste more time/material reslicing on one laptop with the new version and printing through my other one printer is connected to.

I just cant understand why all this never occured till trying to print these files. also it seems something may be getting hot on my printers MB causing things like layer shift on prints over an hour now which did not happen since I bought it 3 years ago. but until this scanner project only printed maybe 5 long duration prints of 2-5 hours biggest toll on my printer was that horrible roll of FAT Octave filament that nearly wouldnt feed being as big as 2mm thick most the way. I have abandon it now. other than 5 parts of the 37 (counting the calibration part) I have managed to get the others printed cleaned up and assembled with a few scrap parts. seems hour and less prints still do great. the Tower which is also a very long print turned out fine 1st print as did most the frame parts. I thought the 1st laser arm did till closer inspection I saw the missing features when test assembling.

the same laptop having slicer issues is the one not wanting to load the web page for the scanner nor 2-3 other web pages and I have gone through 2 very good antivirus/firewalls and found nothing. oh yes and I had a couple emails sent out from my Yahoo accounts contact list sent from a spoofed email saying it was mine. a couple random associated emails so I change email PW but dont think it was hacked only my list was somehow phished. very odd things that seem to be unconnected but all happening within the last month or so.

just hoped maybe all this would sound familiar to somebody else or at least let them see in the future its happened b4.

at this point any issues like others had operating scanner are easy in comparison LOL since there is no ideas what is the causes of all this nonsense. for now I am going to install the 3rd antivirus number 1 rated on this laptop and maybe update some apps while moving towards using the other laptop more soon. maybe some other troubled STLs can be printed on it that wouldnt on here.

I a neubie t 3d scanners & printers. I am trying set up an Atls 3D Scanner  I. am stuck.  There is power ate power supply board with drv8834 drivers.  The green and red ledsvon the Pi 2 B doesn't communicate to inter net. WiFi or Ethernet.. No lasers light no motor turning.

Any help would be deeply appreciated,

Sincerely,

Tom Megna
[email protected]

Having a little trouble with the turntable levelling myself.  Not sure if the alignment of the discs below the turntable that sit on the spindle have anything to do with it, or the smallest plastic 3d printed piece (had to file it down a bit to create smooth circular holes), but I find it hard to make fine adjustments in the level, it is like it resists the adjustment.

Does anyone have any tips or feedback on how that process goes please?

Do I need to work off some more of the loose plastic perhaps (I didn't want to file too great a hole in the middle, I want to scan but have no printer to create new or replacement parts)?  I'm cautious as I had to file it down some just to get it on the spindle to begin with and didn't want to overdo something I couldn't reverse.

I guess if the turntable slips too loosely onto the spindle I won't really be able to adjust it anymore or keep it held in place that well - or have I got that understanding wrong?

Does anyone know the dimensions of the FT spacers that are used to mount the Pi?  I seem to have misplaced mine, and need to locally obtain or fabricate some.

Thanks.

Ok, I found them.  I had it in my head I was looking for round white plastic standoffs.

Thanks.

I'm trying to get a disk copy of the Atlas3d software program and I try to use the one on Amazonaws and it won't disk copy. The Win32imagewriter keeps saying it CORRUPT.  I can't run the Scanner without it. Thanks in Advance  .

A few comments part way through assembly on the instruction manual and web site:

1) Photos on the /start.html#assembly are very hard to discern on my laptop (MacBook Pro retina display) as the photos are very hard to figure out when everything is black. May I suggest they are retaken using the plastic that is still covered with the removable paper for much better contrast? Note clearly at the top of each page that the paper should be removed prior to assembly.

2) Page 1 - #4 - this is where you tell us to use the longer ribbon cable, not at step 29 on page 2!

3) Page 1 - #6 - typo - change "and then connect FC to FB using 3 of the M4 screws" to "and then connect FC to FB using 4 of the M4 screws"

4) Page 1 - exchange the order of 8 & 9

5) Page 1 - (new #9) - typo - change "and sit the Raspberry Pi onto the three screws followed by" with "and sit the Raspberry Pi onto the 4 screws followed by"

6) The diagram on page 4 should show the FT and any other F(x) parts that are not listed there. I had to go to this forum to find the FT which wasted my time.

(I'm sure there are others, but I have to run...)

Setting the turntable up correctly is not simple!

I would suggest that the center holes (for motor shaft) for the discs be a closer tolerance (they can always be enlarged if needed) to get the preset closer, then a countersunk hole in the underside of the turntable to guide the center of the shaft and help ensure alignment.
I would also suggest using the extra round disc (same diameter as FO, but not printed) instead of the printed plastic with the countersunk holes - and longer flat bottom machine screws. One needs to be able to slide the plastic discs around slightly to get the turntable true, and with the countersunk holes and printed disc that combination tends to force it to a setting - which on my unit is not centered.

A great kit none the less, just the instructions and the turntable need a bit of attention to make assembly easier. At my shop I will be making a truing jig for the turntable with a rod the same diameter as the motor shaft and using a drill press to hold it upside down align it that way then bond the plastic discs with methelyne chloride (plastic cement) so it can never shift again!