Solidoodle 1.30 (Page 2 of 2)

it should take minutes to reach temp.
make sure your power supply is set fro 110 assuming you are in the usa.
check that one first sound like a power issue.
check all your connections.
check your thermisistor

The error message is telling you the exact problem, MAX TEMP.
On an SD with a stock hotend it reads cold by 15-20 degrees due to the location of the thermistor.  Because of this SD set the Max Temp in the firmware low to prevent damage to the hot end.  I would recommend doing a PID auto tune to ensure it isn't over shooting during heat up.  Then set your temp a little lower like 210 to help prevent it from reaching max temp.  There are several mods that will allow higher temps for more exotic filament.

PID http://www.soliwiki.com/PID_tuning

The entire calibration section is a must read http://www.soliwiki.com/#Calibrations

When you're ready for the best hot end available https://www.printitindustries.com/colle … -assembled

For when you get tired of waiting an hour for your bed heater.  https://www.printitindustries.com/colle … -8-heatbed

When your PSU finally fails, and it will   https://www.printitindustries.com/produ … wer-supply

Spend some time in the Hacks and Mods section if you really want to make your SD print well.  Ask lots of questions as there are many of us that have been in your position.  Make it fun and learn a lot along the way.  There are many modifications that cost little to nothing that can really improve your printer.

Hope that helps and as always, Happy Printing!

Knowing the temp reading range is that far off is good to know.  I'll get it calibrated first & see how my first print job goes.

WardJr:  Thanks for the links.  Those will be very necessary & extremely helpful as I figure things out & really get into printing. 

What program would you guys recommend for making my own stl files?  What I want to do is be able to scan a 2D picture into my computer (a wing rib or fuselage former,) import it into a program, give it some depth, and print it out.

Perfect.  I'll start with those two and see where it takes me.

Back to the printer itself.  I've gotten it so where the printer starts doing it's thing.  The issue I'm having now is the filament is not sticking to the bed.  Anybody else had this issue before?

Also, this is more an observation than anything else, I'm using black filament and when it comes out the extruder it's magically white.  Is this normal?  filament is ABS.

I'll try the hairspray.  bed temp is around 100 according to Repieter.  Thanks!

123Ddesign  is free download from Autodesk. Free to use for non commercial use . IIRC  about $100 a year for a full licence.
this program will take a 2d svg file and make a 3d stl. IMHO the place to start.

From the looks of it the head is partially plugged.  I changed the filament to PLA two days ago to be able to test printer without having to deal with high temperatures required by ABS.  At that time it swapped out just fine.  Now the machine won't let go of the PLA filament so I can give the gear a good cleaning.  I have removed the screw/spring combo completely & opened up the tension arm.  even with extruder up to temp & tension arm fully open the filament won't come out.  Also can't manually feed filament through (via minor force) when using the manual feed button in Repieter.  Have you guys experienced this?

Correct retraction with PLA is very important. Since PLA takes longer to cool, and its molten state is much more gooey than ABS, it can be more prone to clogging. Temps, speeds, and retraction are all important here.

If you are still using the stock Solidoodle hotend, I highly recommend ditching that sucker ASAP. As it begins clogging with PLA, it will clog more often as charred residue stick to the walls and eventually make it impossible to print a simple ribbon. If you have not already checked out an E3D, you may want to start looking now.
https://www.printitindustries.com/collections/e3d-1