1

Topic: Solidoodle 1.30

I finally got around to opening up my Solidoodle 3D printer.  Version is 1.3, but off hand I'm not sure the exact model.  It was 2 or 3 years back.  Limited instructions were provided in the box.  I'm trying to figure out how to set up the device with the filament.  Any and all suggestions would help.  Serial # is 04552 if that helps any...

Thanks!

2

Re: Solidoodle 1.30

a picture would help us

Sd4 #9080 with a glass bed. E3d chimera duel extruder. Paste extruder , duet wifi.
Lawsy carriages. linear bearings. Y axis direct drive, Kinect scanner
SD4#8188 glass bed, lawsly carriages, E3d v6, octoprint http://www.ustream.tv/channel/hotrod96z28
Filastruder/filawinder, Custom Delta 300mm x 600mm

3

Re: Solidoodle 1.30

+ 1
do not thing anyone here has access to serial number records.

Soliddoodle 4 stock w glass bed------Folger Tech Prusa 2020 upgraded to and titan /aero extruder mirror bed
FT5 with titan/ E3D Aero------MP mini select w glass bed
MP Utimate maker pro-W bondtech extruder
Marlin/Repetier Host/ Slic3r and Cura

4

Re: Solidoodle 1.30

The only thing I can't tell from that serial number is if it's an SD2,3 or 4.
We know it is running a PrintrBoard controller. 
If the build plate is 6"x6" it's an SD2
If the build plate is 8"x8" it's and SD3 or 4
If it's enclosed with a nice plastic exterior over a metal frame it's an SD4
If it is made from all plastic it's a Press.
If it's all metal painted black with dual extruders it's a WorkBench (12"x12" build plate)or WB  Apprentice (8"x8" build plate)

Printit Industries Model 8.10 fully enclosed CoreXY, Chamber heat
3-SD3's & a Workbench all fully enclosed, RH-Slic3r Win7pro, E3D V6, Volcano & Cyclops Hot End
SSR/500W AC Heated Glass Bed, Linear bearings on SS rods. Direct Drive Y-axis, BulldogXL
Thanks to all for your contributions

5

Re: Solidoodle 1.30

wardjr wrote:

The only thing I can't tell from that serial number is if it's an SD2,3 or 4.
We know it is running a PrintrBoard controller. 
If the build plate is 6"x6" it's an SD2
If the build plate is 8"x8" it's and SD3 or 4
If it's enclosed with a nice plastic exterior over a metal frame it's an SD4
If it is made from all plastic it's a Press.
If it's all metal painted black with dual extruders it's a WorkBench (12"x12" build plate)or WB  Apprentice (8"x8" build plate)


Sounds as if it's an SD3 then.  It's an 8"x8" plate, but no fancy (or any, for that matter) plastic exterior over the metal frame.

6

Re: Solidoodle 1.30

Tell us what you need and we will help in any way we can.

Printit Industries Model 8.10 fully enclosed CoreXY, Chamber heat
3-SD3's & a Workbench all fully enclosed, RH-Slic3r Win7pro, E3D V6, Volcano & Cyclops Hot End
SSR/500W AC Heated Glass Bed, Linear bearings on SS rods. Direct Drive Y-axis, BulldogXL
Thanks to all for your contributions

7

Re: Solidoodle 1.30

The 3 and 4 are essentialy the same machine at the core.  The sd4 sometimes referred to as the proverbial pig with a  lipstick and a dress. 

One of the SD4 issues is /was the 8mm rods will sometimes drag against the case.

So have fun and ask questions.  If you decide to use ABS you may want to add some sides to the frame to enclose it.

Soliddoodle 4 stock w glass bed------Folger Tech Prusa 2020 upgraded to and titan /aero extruder mirror bed
FT5 with titan/ E3D Aero------MP mini select w glass bed
MP Utimate maker pro-W bondtech extruder
Marlin/Repetier Host/ Slic3r and Cura

8

Re: Solidoodle 1.30

wardjr wrote:

Tell us what you need and we will help in any way we can.


I'm looking at the initial setup mainly.  I installed the drivers/program from the Blog page of the Solidoodle website.  I'm looking at getting the machine itself setup so where I can try printing.  As the instructions that came with the machine weren't all that comprehensive, where do I feed the filament into it?



Tin Falcon wrote:

The 3 and 4 are essentialy the same machine at the core.  The sd4 sometimes referred to as the proverbial pig with a  lipstick and a dress.

One of the SD4 issues is /was the 8mm rods will sometimes drag against the case.

So have fun and ask questions.  If you decide to use ABS you may want to add some sides to the frame to enclose it.


Currently I have 3 spools of ABS.  Was going to try that first.  I have 3 more spools of a lighter filament on order that should be arriving this week.  I'm looking at purchasing Gcodes for some 3D Printed RC aircraft.

9

Re: Solidoodle 1.30

purchasing gcode? or the stl? gcode is usually specific to each machine/filament

Sd4 #9080 with a glass bed. E3d chimera duel extruder. Paste extruder , duet wifi.
Lawsy carriages. linear bearings. Y axis direct drive, Kinect scanner
SD4#8188 glass bed, lawsly carriages, E3d v6, octoprint http://www.ustream.tv/channel/hotrod96z28
Filastruder/filawinder, Custom Delta 300mm x 600mm

10

Re: Solidoodle 1.30

Does your printer have a clear acrylic extruder assembly?  This will help us guide you to loading filament.

Printit Industries Model 8.10 fully enclosed CoreXY, Chamber heat
3-SD3's & a Workbench all fully enclosed, RH-Slic3r Win7pro, E3D V6, Volcano & Cyclops Hot End
SSR/500W AC Heated Glass Bed, Linear bearings on SS rods. Direct Drive Y-axis, BulldogXL
Thanks to all for your contributions

11

Re: Solidoodle 1.30

Kronikabuse wrote:

purchasing gcode? or the stl? gcode is usually specific to each machine/filament

This is the website I'm looking at:  https://3dlabprint.com/shop/lockheed-p-38-lightning/

It says universal STL files and basic Gcodes.

wardjr wrote:

Does your printer have a clear acrylic extruder assembly?  This will help us guide you to loading filament.

Does the picture help you?

Post's attachments

Extruder Assembly.jpg
Extruder Assembly.jpg 1.1 mb, file has never been downloaded. 

You don't have the permssions to download the attachments of this post.

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Re: Solidoodle 1.30

Sure does, loosen the thumb wheel circled in white.  You can even remove it to allow the tension arm to swing away from the drive gear.  Then insert filament through the hole shown by the red arrow.  Push the filament all the way past the drive gear and into the hot end.  Then replace and tighten the thumbwheel.  Heat it up and try extruding via Repetier Host.  If you haven't downloaded this yet you'll need it to control your printer.  I'm guessing you'll have many more questions, one thing at a time.
http://soliforum.com/i/?iBhEKih.jpg

Printit Industries Model 8.10 fully enclosed CoreXY, Chamber heat
3-SD3's & a Workbench all fully enclosed, RH-Slic3r Win7pro, E3D V6, Volcano & Cyclops Hot End
SSR/500W AC Heated Glass Bed, Linear bearings on SS rods. Direct Drive Y-axis, BulldogXL
Thanks to all for your contributions

13

Re: Solidoodle 1.30

j.t.guthrie wrote:
Kronikabuse wrote:

purchasing gcode? or the stl? gcode is usually specific to each machine/filament

This is the website I'm looking at:  https://3dlabprint.com/shop/lockheed-p-38-lightning/

It says universal STL files and basic Gcodes.

Do NOT use the g-codes - they are set up for a Prusa style machine. (in all honesty - even with the same type of printer, I would not use these)

Use the STL files, import into Repetier Host and slice with your settings for your specific machine and materials.

Also, before attempting to print one of those planes, you will need to spend a fair bit of time getting everything calibrated and printing well. These are very advanced models and require a lot of precision to print successfully

SD4 #1 & #2 - Lawsy carriages, E3D v6, Rumba controller board, mirror bed plate, X motor fan, upgraded PSU & Mica bed heater
SD4 #3 - in the works ~ Folgertech FT-5, rev 1
Printit Industries Beta Tester - Horizon H1

14

Re: Solidoodle 1.30

wardjr wrote:

Sure does, loosen the thumb wheel circled in white.  You can even remove it to allow the tension arm to swing away from the drive gear.  Then insert filament through the hole shown by the red arrow.  Push the filament all the way past the drive gear and into the hot end.  Then replace and tighten the thumbwheel.  Heat it up and try extruding via Repetier Host.  If you haven't downloaded this yet you'll need it to control your printer.  I'm guessing you'll have many more questions, one thing at a time.


Perfect.  I'll get the filament installed when I get home from work as well as download that Repetier program.  The plane website recommended using Simplify3D.  Is that the same type program as Repetier?  Which program would be best to use?

15

Re: Solidoodle 1.30

heartless wrote:

Do NOT use the g-codes - they are set up for a Prusa style machine. (in all honesty - even with the same type of printer, I would not use these)

Use the STL files, import into Repetier Host and slice with your settings for your specific machine and materials.

Also, before attempting to print one of those planes, you will need to spend a fair bit of time getting everything calibrated and printing well. These are very advanced models and require a lot of precision to print successfully


Good to know.  I'll stick with the STL files and once I have a few successful prints & I know it's calibrated correctly I'll attempt the plane model.

16

Re: Solidoodle 1.30

j.t.guthrie wrote:
wardjr wrote:

Sure does, loosen the thumb wheel circled in white.  You can even remove it to allow the tension arm to swing away from the drive gear.  Then insert filament through the hole shown by the red arrow.  Push the filament all the way past the drive gear and into the hot end.  Then replace and tighten the thumbwheel.  Heat it up and try extruding via Repetier Host.  If you haven't downloaded this yet you'll need it to control your printer.  I'm guessing you'll have many more questions, one thing at a time.


Perfect.  I'll get the filament installed when I get home from work as well as download that Repetier program.  The plane website recommended using Simplify3D.  Is that the same type program as Repetier?  Which program would be best to use?

Simplify 3d is like repeiter but it also costs like $150
repieter is free

Sd4 #9080 with a glass bed. E3d chimera duel extruder. Paste extruder , duet wifi.
Lawsy carriages. linear bearings. Y axis direct drive, Kinect scanner
SD4#8188 glass bed, lawsly carriages, E3d v6, octoprint http://www.ustream.tv/channel/hotrod96z28
Filastruder/filawinder, Custom Delta 300mm x 600mm

17

Re: Solidoodle 1.30

Kronikabuse wrote:

Simplify 3d is like repeiter but it also costs like $150
repieter is free


Repieter will work for me lol

18

Re: Solidoodle 1.30

Ok, so I'm not sure how to operate the server version of Repieter.  I tried using the program itself, however it said it couldn't connect to my printer & recommended using the server versions.

I believe I have the ABS filament installed correctly.  I loosened the tension arm & pushed the filament as far as it would go & then re-tightened the arm.  I uploaded a basic soap box STL file I found online to the server Repieter & haven't had any luck getting anything to print.  Printer doesn't even act as if it's receiving input.  I uploaded the Gcodes on the Print tab.  Set the Temperature to ABS (245C) on the control tab.  I clicked on the Direct Print first & received msg saying my print job was finished after 1 second (printer didn't move.)  Tried it again another way (which I don't recall off hand) and after 5 seconds I receive a message saying same thing. 

Ideas?

19

Re: Solidoodle 1.30

You want Repetier-Host.  You'll need to establish communication via the Com port.

Printit Industries Model 8.10 fully enclosed CoreXY, Chamber heat
3-SD3's & a Workbench all fully enclosed, RH-Slic3r Win7pro, E3D V6, Volcano & Cyclops Hot End
SSR/500W AC Heated Glass Bed, Linear bearings on SS rods. Direct Drive Y-axis, BulldogXL
Thanks to all for your contributions

20

Re: Solidoodle 1.30

http://www.soliforum.com/downloads/soli … _WIN10.exe

Printit Industries Model 8.10 fully enclosed CoreXY, Chamber heat
3-SD3's & a Workbench all fully enclosed, RH-Slic3r Win7pro, E3D V6, Volcano & Cyclops Hot End
SSR/500W AC Heated Glass Bed, Linear bearings on SS rods. Direct Drive Y-axis, BulldogXL
Thanks to all for your contributions

21

Re: Solidoodle 1.30

Generally this is a pretty helpful link http://www.soliwiki.com/

Printit Industries Model 8.10 fully enclosed CoreXY, Chamber heat
3-SD3's & a Workbench all fully enclosed, RH-Slic3r Win7pro, E3D V6, Volcano & Cyclops Hot End
SSR/500W AC Heated Glass Bed, Linear bearings on SS rods. Direct Drive Y-axis, BulldogXL
Thanks to all for your contributions

22

Re: Solidoodle 1.30

wardjr wrote:

You want Repetier-Host.  You'll need to establish communication via the Com port.


This is what I'm working on now.  Printer hooked up to Comm Port 4.  In the Repeiter host it tells me access to comm 4 is denied.  So that's my next step.

23

Re: Solidoodle 1.30

j.t.guthrie wrote:
wardjr wrote:

You want Repetier-Host.  You'll need to establish communication via the Com port.


This is what I'm working on now.  Printer hooked up to Comm Port 4.  In the Repeiter host it tells me access to comm 4 is denied.  So that's my next step.


On Second thought, looking at my laptop, I only have 3 USB Comm Ports.  I tried the other ones to no avail.  Program is defaulting to Comm 4 and only gives me two options on the drop down menu:  Auto & Comm 4.  I may try hooking it up to my desktop which has quite a few more Comm Ports to see if I have better luck.

24

Re: Solidoodle 1.30

is the proper driver loaded ???

Soliddoodle 4 stock w glass bed------Folger Tech Prusa 2020 upgraded to and titan /aero extruder mirror bed
FT5 with titan/ E3D Aero------MP mini select w glass bed
MP Utimate maker pro-W bondtech extruder
Marlin/Repetier Host/ Slic3r and Cura

25

Re: Solidoodle 1.30

the number of physical USB ports has nothing to do with the COM port number assigned - and you can change that number manually in Device Manager.

The driver needs to be installed before connecting the printer - if I recall correctly, it took me a few tries to get it to install correctly when we got our first Solidoodle.

1. Install driver - printer not connected.
2. Connect printer and power it up
3. Verify connection in Device manager -
3a. Check Baud Rate settings in Device Manager - by default they are usually far too low - minimum setting is 115200, preferred is 250000
3b. I would recommend changing the COM port number to something above 10 before proceeding any further.
4. Start Repetier Host (side note: it usually works best to power up the printer before starting RH)
5. In RH, click on Config > Printer Settings to configure your connection - should look something like this

http://soliforum.com/i/?FLqvDdv.jpg

5a. Set the baud rate to match what you set in Device Manager, COM port as well. (Com port will only be available if the printer is powered up)
6. Click "Apply" and close that window.

you should now be able to connect to your printer.

Once connected, you should go to the manual control tab in RH, and try moving the different axis of the printer.
You may need to "home" the printer first (click on the little house icon) - be ready to click the emergency stop button, in case it doesn't want to stop - or moves in the wrong direction... "home" should be right rear.
If that happens, you will most likely need to do a bit more configuration to get things operating properly.

SD4 #1 & #2 - Lawsy carriages, E3D v6, Rumba controller board, mirror bed plate, X motor fan, upgraded PSU & Mica bed heater
SD4 #3 - in the works ~ Folgertech FT-5, rev 1
Printit Industries Beta Tester - Horizon H1