26

Re: Bearings Don't Fit ABS Printed Parts

wardjr wrote:
heartless wrote:

If I may - I have done a couple of write-ups on how to properly calibrate and posted them on my blog.... broken into 2 parts...

Part 1 - average filament diameter and E-steps/mm: http://northwoods3d.weebly.com/blog/fil … ion-part-1

Part 2 - Extrusion calibration: http://northwoods3d.weebly.com/blog/-fl … coming-out

You must have had a great teacher somewhere along the way wink

Ya think, maybe?? LOL wink

for a decent caliper, look up EZ Cal by I-Gauging. (https://www.amazon.com/iGaging-Electron … B001AQEZ2W)

I got mine roughly 2 years ago and have replaced the battery once in that time (when it starts having problems zeroing out, and staying zeroed, it is time to replace the battery)

We (the other half and I) did a lot of researching and reading of reviews before buying - the EZ Cal was compared to some pretty high end, expensive units and did quite well in accuracy and smoothness of movement - for a fraction of the price.

as for the tutorial -
All of my printers (5 of them currently) have had the E-steps calibrated the same way shown in the tutorial.

Note: It is important to run a few millimeters (I suggest 10mm minimum) of filament through after making a change to the E-steps/mm so the system can reset itself BEFORE you try measuring again! If you don't do that step, you will not get accurate results!

I currently have 55 different materials/colors profiled in Slic3r - every one of them calibrated the same way I outline in the tutorial...
I can use any one of them in any of my 5 printers, simply by selecting the material/color name in the profile list and get excellent results every time.

SD4 #1 & #2 - Lawsy carriages, E3D v6, Rumba controller board, mirror bed plate, X motor fan, upgraded PSU & Mica bed heater
SD4 #3 - in the works ~ Folgertech FT-5, rev 1
Printit Industries Beta Tester - Horizon H1

27

Re: Bearings Don't Fit ABS Printed Parts

and here is what you can do with a well calibrated printer and properly calibrated filament...

I needed a nut to fit a printed phone holder/mount to a standard camera tripod...

grabbed a CAD file for a 1/4-20 nut from McMaster Carr's website (they have them for just about everything), turned that CAD file into an STL file, imported into Repetier Host, and sliced it with Slic3r at a 0.1905 layer height (got to love those 5/16" threaded rods, lol)

printing 4 at a time to allow enough cooling between layers....

http://soliforum.com/i/?VbzVo68.jpg

grabbed one off the printbed for a test fit... it was a little tight initially getting the screw started, but once i did, it is a perfect fit!

had a little bit of elephant footing on the outside of the nut, cleaned that up and the nut fits in the nut socket of phone mount perfectly, holding the phone mount to the standard tripod mount perfectly - nice and secure.

http://soliforum.com/i/?h7HavHP.jpg

The green phone mount was printed about a month ago - just never got around to going to the hardware store for the proper hardware... then I had the idea of just printing what I needed - mainly just the nut to secure it to the stock tripod base... guess I don't need to go to the hardware store after all. smile

SD4 #1 & #2 - Lawsy carriages, E3D v6, Rumba controller board, mirror bed plate, X motor fan, upgraded PSU & Mica bed heater
SD4 #3 - in the works ~ Folgertech FT-5, rev 1
Printit Industries Beta Tester - Horizon H1

28

Re: Bearings Don't Fit ABS Printed Parts

+1 to printing hardware!

Calibrating your machine is crucial for the inevitable day you need to print your own hardware or replacement parts.
OP- as a side note, it seems you printed your carriages with a low infill. It is highly recommended you print them with no less than 80% infill, but 100% is best.

Printit Mason and Printit Horizon printers
Multiple SD2s- Bulldog XL, E3D v5/v6/Lite6, Volcano, Hobb Goblin, Titan, .9 motor, Lawsy carriages, direct Y drive, fishing line...the list goes on
Filawinder and Filastruder #1870.....worth every penny!

29

Re: Bearings Don't Fit ABS Printed Parts

You could still use the micrometer if you just peel the top 3 layers or so from the calibration cube and measure those.

30

Re: Bearings Don't Fit ABS Printed Parts

IanJohnson wrote:

You could still use the micrometer if you just peel the top 3 layers or so from the calibration cube and measure those.

Depending on your layer adhesion.  I just made a Cal print of the single wall cube and could not separate the layers. The side a actually cracked and broke down through the middle like molded plastic would. For some reason I am getting 56 with a 4 nozzle and can not pin down the cause. Guess I will go back to basics and calibrate again.

Printing since 2009 and still love it!
Anycubic 4MAX best $225 ever invested.
Voxelabs Proxima SLA. 6 inch 2k Mono LCD.
Anycubic Predator, massive Delta machine. 450 x 370 print envelope.

31

Re: Bearings Don't Fit ABS Printed Parts

Since UPS and FedEx come to my work daily I figure it's easier to order than drive 45 minutes each way to Harbor Freight etc. The Fowlers were given to me by a friend who gave up on trying to measure the diameter of his air gun pellets to extreme accuracy. ;D

Tin Falcon wrote:

I have the micrometer show in one of the photos above. I need to order a different style caliper. Any product suggestions?

Why do you need to order a caliper. Calipers are fine and available at different price points. 
Calipers are not as acurate but do have more range and capability.
I have many of the cheap harbor freight . They work but are not as smooth as the good ones . If you want or feel you need calipers and like your Fowler look first at Fowler.

SD2 Pro + RH + Slic3r on Win7Ent (~Craigslist Oct. 2016 my 1st printer: upgrading & calibrating to near perfection)
- E3D V6 hotend; 30A PSU; Glass bed for ABS or Blue Tape on glass for PLA
- X-axis NEMA 14 press on fan (thing:1871741); Lawsy almost everything else; 3mm Z axis rod (thing:1868824)
- Sang board w/all headers, ATmega1284P w/OptiBoot and Marlin beta firmware; VRef tuned

32

Re: Bearings Don't Fit ABS Printed Parts

I've been doing much better thanks to all of your advice and switching to PLA for the time being. Here are a few prints from over the weekend. I broke the glass trying to remove this print from blue painters tape covered bed. Thankfully I had extra glass but wondering if maybe I need a thinner tool? ABS always just popped right off of the clean glass.

http://soliforum.com/i/?IrhjlJB.jpg

http://soliforum.com/i/?plXwHmN.jpg

http://soliforum.com/i/?xXEvU9d.jpg

Still a tiny bit of warping at the corners with PLA but nothing like ABS. I am curious about the bed shifting left right (X-axis). I have seen some people used this... do you recommend: http://tomhorsley.com/hardware/solidood … table.html ??

I am using this spring setup and it seems to work to remove backlash on Z screw http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1273137

SD2 Pro + RH + Slic3r on Win7Ent (~Craigslist Oct. 2016 my 1st printer: upgrading & calibrating to near perfection)
- E3D V6 hotend; 30A PSU; Glass bed for ABS or Blue Tape on glass for PLA
- X-axis NEMA 14 press on fan (thing:1871741); Lawsy almost everything else; 3mm Z axis rod (thing:1868824)
- Sang board w/all headers, ATmega1284P w/OptiBoot and Marlin beta firmware; VRef tuned

33

Re: Bearings Don't Fit ABS Printed Parts

I am no expert by any means, but it seems to me that the springs - while allowing full Z movement - might not stop the shaking of the bed. Yes, it may limit/reduce it a bit, but I dont think it would stop it completely. The only way to do that is to have a rigid stabilizer.

I used this one: http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:195266 with some brass tubing I had on hand. it works very well at stopping the front of the bed wiggle... the only problem is loosing a little Z height

SD4 #1 & #2 - Lawsy carriages, E3D v6, Rumba controller board, mirror bed plate, X motor fan, upgraded PSU & Mica bed heater
SD4 #3 - in the works ~ Folgertech FT-5, rev 1
Printit Industries Beta Tester - Horizon H1

34

Re: Bearings Don't Fit ABS Printed Parts

I have the wooden bed so that Thing won't fit easily... maybe I could screw it on?

heartless wrote:

I am no expert by any means, but it seems to me that the springs - while allowing full Z movement - might not stop the shaking of the bed. Yes, it may limit/reduce it a bit, but I dont think it would stop it completely. The only way to do that is to have a rigid stabilizer.

I used this one: http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:195266 with some brass tubing I had on hand. it works very well at stopping the front of the bed wiggle... the only problem is loosing a little Z height

SD2 Pro + RH + Slic3r on Win7Ent (~Craigslist Oct. 2016 my 1st printer: upgrading & calibrating to near perfection)
- E3D V6 hotend; 30A PSU; Glass bed for ABS or Blue Tape on glass for PLA
- X-axis NEMA 14 press on fan (thing:1871741); Lawsy almost everything else; 3mm Z axis rod (thing:1868824)
- Sang board w/all headers, ATmega1284P w/OptiBoot and Marlin beta firmware; VRef tuned

35

Re: Bearings Don't Fit ABS Printed Parts

Ok. I'll give it a shot reprinting them at a higher infill so they don't eventually break. They are made of ABS and after a few days of printing no visible signs of wear.

AZERATE wrote:

+1 to printing hardware!

Calibrating your machine is crucial for the inevitable day you need to print your own hardware or replacement parts.
OP- as a side note, it seems you printed your carriages with a low infill. It is highly recommended you print them with no less than 80% infill, but 100% is best.

SD2 Pro + RH + Slic3r on Win7Ent (~Craigslist Oct. 2016 my 1st printer: upgrading & calibrating to near perfection)
- E3D V6 hotend; 30A PSU; Glass bed for ABS or Blue Tape on glass for PLA
- X-axis NEMA 14 press on fan (thing:1871741); Lawsy almost everything else; 3mm Z axis rod (thing:1868824)
- Sang board w/all headers, ATmega1284P w/OptiBoot and Marlin beta firmware; VRef tuned

36

Re: Bearings Don't Fit ABS Printed Parts

I make it a rule of thumb that structural and functional parts are always printed with 80 to 100 percent infill.

Printing since 2009 and still love it!
Anycubic 4MAX best $225 ever invested.
Voxelabs Proxima SLA. 6 inch 2k Mono LCD.
Anycubic Predator, massive Delta machine. 450 x 370 print envelope.

37

Re: Bearings Don't Fit ABS Printed Parts

Well... I replaced my ATMega644p with an ATMega1284p last night. It came with OptiBoot bootloader and that took some time to get my head around. Anyways, back up and running with some room to grow and play with whatever code mods might be helpful. I then tried to print some tests with ABS (bed slurried, leveled, 105C, enclosure on, some insulation on the enclosure) and parts were still warping and coming loose and getting dragged. PLA prints so easily ;'(

http://soliforum.com/i/?TyPgt8a.jpg

http://soliforum.com/i/?11ehkP4.jpg

Help! wink BTW I ordered a digital caliper... I noticed when I tried just a few layers of my test cube that I am underextruding. It seemed like I was spot on if I measured too many layers. There's a visible pattern on the walls/perimeter that stays from one test cube to the next... is that the threads on the Z axis?

SD2 Pro + RH + Slic3r on Win7Ent (~Craigslist Oct. 2016 my 1st printer: upgrading & calibrating to near perfection)
- E3D V6 hotend; 30A PSU; Glass bed for ABS or Blue Tape on glass for PLA
- X-axis NEMA 14 press on fan (thing:1871741); Lawsy almost everything else; 3mm Z axis rod (thing:1868824)
- Sang board w/all headers, ATmega1284P w/OptiBoot and Marlin beta firmware; VRef tuned

38

Re: Bearings Don't Fit ABS Printed Parts

That pattern is called moire and is caused by the pulse of the extruder motor.  You can adjust VREF to reduce it.  A geared extruder would eliminate it.  As would a 1/32 driver or a .9 motor.  Seems as though lately one of the favorite choices has been to install a Hobb Goblin to help reduce Moiré https://www.printitindustries.com/produ … bb-goblin.

Printit Industries Model 8.10 fully enclosed CoreXY, Chamber heat
3-SD3's & a Workbench all fully enclosed, RH-Slic3r Win7pro, E3D V6, Volcano & Cyclops Hot End
SSR/500W AC Heated Glass Bed, Linear bearings on SS rods. Direct Drive Y-axis, BulldogXL
Thanks to all for your contributions

39

Re: Bearings Don't Fit ABS Printed Parts

Ahh... Thanks! smile I'll take a look at a geared extruder. My extruder motor has a hobbed bolt of some kind that presses against a roller bearing. Maybe it's just not sharp enough? In a few days I should have the parts to do a cheap m3 rod Z axis. I'm thinking I need to stiffen the SD2 frame somewhat... it's coming along. More of a project than I expected but enjoying the learning and will apply it to larger machine. I found a page on replacing the resistors on the Pololu stepper driver that allows easier tuning. I haven't yet looked at the motors... http://reprap.org/wiki/Pololu_stepper_driver_board

SD2 Pro + RH + Slic3r on Win7Ent (~Craigslist Oct. 2016 my 1st printer: upgrading & calibrating to near perfection)
- E3D V6 hotend; 30A PSU; Glass bed for ABS or Blue Tape on glass for PLA
- X-axis NEMA 14 press on fan (thing:1871741); Lawsy almost everything else; 3mm Z axis rod (thing:1868824)
- Sang board w/all headers, ATmega1284P w/OptiBoot and Marlin beta firmware; VRef tuned

40

Re: Bearings Don't Fit ABS Printed Parts

Learning is the fun part, an easy solution that your problem is to put a DRV8825 on the E:
https://www.printitindustries.com/colle … er-drivers
This will allow 1/32 stepping and is easier to adjust out the Moiré.
There is no question that the teeth on the stock drive gear are less than desirable.  But, unless you are seeing filament dust it is probably doing its job just fine.

Printit Industries Model 8.10 fully enclosed CoreXY, Chamber heat
3-SD3's & a Workbench all fully enclosed, RH-Slic3r Win7pro, E3D V6, Volcano & Cyclops Hot End
SSR/500W AC Heated Glass Bed, Linear bearings on SS rods. Direct Drive Y-axis, BulldogXL
Thanks to all for your contributions

41

Re: Bearings Don't Fit ABS Printed Parts

Cool ordered one smile

wardjr wrote:

Learning is the fun part, an easy solution that your problem is to put a DRV8825 on the E:
https://www.printitindustries.com/colle … er-drivers
This will allow 1/32 stepping and is easier to adjust out the Moiré.
There is no question that the teeth on the stock drive gear are less than desirable.  But, unless you are seeing filament dust it is probably doing its job just fine.

SD2 Pro + RH + Slic3r on Win7Ent (~Craigslist Oct. 2016 my 1st printer: upgrading & calibrating to near perfection)
- E3D V6 hotend; 30A PSU; Glass bed for ABS or Blue Tape on glass for PLA
- X-axis NEMA 14 press on fan (thing:1871741); Lawsy almost everything else; 3mm Z axis rod (thing:1868824)
- Sang board w/all headers, ATmega1284P w/OptiBoot and Marlin beta firmware; VRef tuned

42

Re: Bearings Don't Fit ABS Printed Parts

just to clarify (since you didnt share a picture of what you are seeing)

this is moire:

http://soliforum.com/i/?EOOQjsx.jpg

and this is Z wobble (image grabbed from online):

http://soliforum.com/i/?1zffNG8.jpg

SD4 #1 & #2 - Lawsy carriages, E3D v6, Rumba controller board, mirror bed plate, X motor fan, upgraded PSU & Mica bed heater
SD4 #3 - in the works ~ Folgertech FT-5, rev 1
Printit Industries Beta Tester - Horizon H1

43

Re: Bearings Don't Fit ABS Printed Parts

Sorry for the nonphoto--was at work. What I'm seeing resembles the Moire. In the beginning a few weeks ago I had really really bad Z wobble. This evening I replaced the 20k ohm resistor on the Pololu 4988 stepper with a salvaged 51k ohm per RepRap wiki. I then used a multimeter to set correct Vref. Seems like Y was a ways off from what it should have been at. I didn't have the wherewithall to salvage more resistors but wonder if it's worth it to get more accurate Vref set on the XYZ? Haven't replaced a surface mount resistor in many years. My eyes are definitely aging. These things are so TINY! wink


heartless wrote:

just to clarify (since you didnt share a picture of what you are seeing)

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SD2 Pro + RH + Slic3r on Win7Ent (~Craigslist Oct. 2016 my 1st printer: upgrading & calibrating to near perfection)
- E3D V6 hotend; 30A PSU; Glass bed for ABS or Blue Tape on glass for PLA
- X-axis NEMA 14 press on fan (thing:1871741); Lawsy almost everything else; 3mm Z axis rod (thing:1868824)
- Sang board w/all headers, ATmega1284P w/OptiBoot and Marlin beta firmware; VRef tuned

44

Re: Bearings Don't Fit ABS Printed Parts

Here's an example after mucking with electronics. I think I need to recalibrate steps for all motors after tuning vref? Moire is mostly gone but z wobble visible at corners if I'm interpreting correctly ...http://soliforum.com/i/?nF4NyRp.jpg

SD2 Pro + RH + Slic3r on Win7Ent (~Craigslist Oct. 2016 my 1st printer: upgrading & calibrating to near perfection)
- E3D V6 hotend; 30A PSU; Glass bed for ABS or Blue Tape on glass for PLA
- X-axis NEMA 14 press on fan (thing:1871741); Lawsy almost everything else; 3mm Z axis rod (thing:1868824)
- Sang board w/all headers, ATmega1284P w/OptiBoot and Marlin beta firmware; VRef tuned

45 (edited by heartless 2016-11-02 11:54:51)

Re: Bearings Don't Fit ABS Printed Parts

yeah, that is definitely Z wobble.

a bed stabilizer in the front will help, but not eliminate it.

you may want to look into a adding a "slop nut" on the Z rod... there are several options out there already - take a look through the "Hacks and Mods" section

SD4 #1 & #2 - Lawsy carriages, E3D v6, Rumba controller board, mirror bed plate, X motor fan, upgraded PSU & Mica bed heater
SD4 #3 - in the works ~ Folgertech FT-5, rev 1
Printit Industries Beta Tester - Horizon H1

46

Re: Bearings Don't Fit ABS Printed Parts

Ok. Thanks! smile

heartless wrote:

yeah, that is definitely Z wobble.

a bed stabilizer in the front will help, but not eliminate it.

you may want to look into a adding a "slop nut" on the Z rod... there are several options out there already - take a look through the "Hacks and Mods" section

SD2 Pro + RH + Slic3r on Win7Ent (~Craigslist Oct. 2016 my 1st printer: upgrading & calibrating to near perfection)
- E3D V6 hotend; 30A PSU; Glass bed for ABS or Blue Tape on glass for PLA
- X-axis NEMA 14 press on fan (thing:1871741); Lawsy almost everything else; 3mm Z axis rod (thing:1868824)
- Sang board w/all headers, ATmega1284P w/OptiBoot and Marlin beta firmware; VRef tuned