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Topic: Guide on how to turn 3D designs into molds!

Hey guys,

Here's a tutorial on how to turn a 3D object into a 3D printable mold!
http://bit.ly/1H7rEgN

You'll need:
- Meshlab
- Autodesk's meshmixer tool
- OpenSCAD

Cheers smile

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Re: Guide on how to turn 3D designs into molds!

Nice write up.

SD2 - Glass Bed, Fans on PCB and Y motor, Custom enclosure
Slicer - Simplify3D

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Re: Guide on how to turn 3D designs into molds!

wire10ga wrote:

Nice write up.

Thanks!

4 (edited by ysb 2015-05-20 16:09:16)

Re: Guide on how to turn 3D designs into molds!

+1 ...bookmarked your tutorial.. i learn some hints.. thanks

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Re: Guide on how to turn 3D designs into molds!

ysb wrote:

+1 ...bookmarked your tutorial.. i learn some hints.. thanks

Does this mean we can expect some scantily-clad fantasy chocolate molds soon? wink

SD3 w/ RUMBA (8825s), merlin hot end (in pieces). Ender3 w/ silent board for PLA printing. Ender5 w/ silent board, e3d v6, new z lead screw, and glass bed. DiY Kossel w/ smoothieboard (in pieces). Vellman Vertex (in pieces)
Shapeoko2 router in process of being converted to laser engraver (in pieces)
Multicam 5000 series CNC Router w/ 11HP spindle, 5x10' table, and auto tool changer (in pieces)

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Re: Guide on how to turn 3D designs into molds!

why not tongue

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Re: Guide on how to turn 3D designs into molds!

saw a customizer of this on thiniverse with Scad file to change to suit

Solidoodle 2 with Deluxe kit cover & glass bed with heater. and 2nd board SD2 used not 3rd and alum platform not installed yet still wood. also need cooling fan installed to board. use Repetier Host couple vers. Slic3r also have all free ware STL programs

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Re: Guide on how to turn 3D designs into molds!

Glad you guys enjoyed it! Let us know if you've got a tutorial idea, or would like to write a tutorial smile We're always looking to better the 3D printing community

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Re: Guide on how to turn 3D designs into molds!

Tinkcad.com can turn a shape into a hole in a larger object like a block so you can make molds that way too.

10 (edited by Heartlander 2015-12-03 04:12:52)

Re: Guide on how to turn 3D designs into molds!

Agree with Rocketman. In 123D Design you
1.  make the parent object you want to derive the mold from,
2. make a separate cube,
3. slide them together about halfway then
4. use the Combine Subtract tool to exclude overlapping parts. See attached photo for result.
5. Make another mold for the other half of the parent object and you're set.

Now, you need to think about how you design the parent part. Complicated parts with cutout, hollows, bridges and such may be hard to make a mold from i.e. where do you split the mold?

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Robox printer, HICTOP (Prusa i3 variant) Model 3DP17 printer, ELEK 2.5W laser engraver, AutoDesk 123D Design, Windows 10

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Re: Guide on how to turn 3D designs into molds!

Thank you!

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Re: Guide on how to turn 3D designs into molds!

Step 1 – Reducing the polycount

Use Meshlab for this process. It’s free and can be found here. Meshlab is a full-featured tool but I mostly use it for reducing polycounts. Start Meshlab up and load your STL by clicking on File->Import Mesh…
Next take a look at the face count. It’s circled in red in the above picture. Right now it’s at almost 1 million. I want to reduce it down to well under 100K for the first part of our process.
Click on:

Filters->Remeshing, Simplification, and Reconstruction->Quadratic Edge Collapse Decimation

Set the number of faces to something that still looks reasonable when you hit “Apply” but is below 100K (I chose 60K). Hit “Apply”.

Your Model is now decimated down to a workable number of faces. If you skip this step, some of the software used in later steps won’t load the model, or will crash when you try.
Step 2. Is it manifold?

Now we need to verify our model’s manifoldness. Quadratic Edge Decimation generally produces good-looking results but frequently breaks manifoldness. The attitude bunny I’m using was manifold before the decimation, but now is not. Here’s how you tell:

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Click Render->Show Non-Manif Edges

     then

Click Render->Show Non-Manif Vertices

Filter->Cleaning and Repairing-> Remove Duplicate Faces

   Filter->Cleaning and Repairing-> Remove Duplicate Vertex

   Filter->Cleaning and Repairing-> Remove Faces from Non Manif Edges

Once that’s done export your mesh as an STL even if it still isn’t perfectly manifold.

If after selecting all of the above your model still isn’t manifold, you’ll have to load it in Netfabb Basic (also free) and attempt automatic repair from there.

If Netfabb basic won’t fix it you may need to reduce the polycount further and repair it by hand in Sketchup. This is tedious and not for the faint of heart.

Speaking of Sketchup, it’s a great tool for taking a look inside our mesh to see how the insides look. It’s free and you can download it here.

You’ll need to install an STL importer/exporter. There’s one available in the Sketchup plugin library. Once you’ve done that, you’ll be able to import your model and have a look.


Step 3. Get rid of internal structures

This used to be a long and tedious process but now there’s an easy and free solution. Autodesk’s Meshmixer tool is free and can take care of this for us.

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Re: Guide on how to turn 3D designs into molds!

Heartlander wrote:

Agree with Rocketman. In 123D Design you
1.  make the parent object you want to derive the mold from,
2. make a separate cube,
3. slide them together about halfway then
4. use the Combine Subtract tool to exclude overlapping parts. See attached photo for result.
5. Make another mold for the other half of the parent object and you're set.

Now, you need to think about how you design the parent part. Complicated parts with cutout, hollows, bridges and such may be hard to make a mold from i.e. where do you split the mold?

Just curious, but wouldn't it be easier to surround your entire original part with a cube then subtract it? You could then easily add rods to create "holes" after subtraction (or do at with the original model from the start) to have the fill / over fill holes built in.

Splitting in 123D is ridiculously simple even if deciding where you need the split isn't sad , you can just take a cube of any size making sure the axis you want to split on is like .0001 thick, move into place and merge / subtract. I think it would be fairly simple to get the mold apart when you can make as many "cuts" in it to release as you need. Sliding "pins" from the outside of you cube that you have copied (so you have an identical one in the same place) then doing a subtraction would make it fairly easy to have matching pins and hole to hold a mold together.