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Topic: I try again to build an optimized nozzle

Hi guys,

Since I have had very good experiences with airbrush nozzles, as well as once with stepped holes in nozzles, I will try this time a nozzle with a long cone, which should be as polished as inside.

This is best achieved with a canon drill. Unfortunately, these are, in the sizes required for this, almost unbeatable, if one finds one at all. So I make myself a silver-steel, which I will then also harden.
Let's see if I succeed.

I began with a 2.5mm silver steel to slightly more than the length of a nozzle corresponds to 1.95mm Turning off, which was still quite easy.
I got the cone by rubbing it carefully with a blue rubber polishing disc and a Proxxon Minnimot under a magnifying glass. It was my intention to make this cone slightly arched, which makes the drill much more stable. Since you have to be careful with such small parts, the tip does not have to overheat so it takes its time. After half an hour of work, it looked like this. An old nozzle for comparison behind it.

http://up.picr.de/27064781fz.jpg

I hope the cannon drill for nozzle sizes to get below 0.2mm usable. The tip now has a diameter <0.1mm.

Next I did not come today, but maybe tomorrow. Then the really difficult part begins. Then I have to sharpen the cone right down to the middle. Hardening and sharpening. A nice finger-play, according to my taste.

Greeting Edwin

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Re: I try again to build an optimized nozzle

I hope Google makes the translation correct, if not it is just a little funny ... smile

Today I first made my canon drill.

I have put it into my tiller, and carefully cut out a light hollow chimney almost half of the drill.

http://up.picr.de/27074247ds.jpg

http://up.picr.de/27074248ys.jpg

After the hardening and tempering (again with warmth of the hardness so that he does not fall immediately) I had to sharpen it only with an Akansas grindstone and some oil, which is quite simple through the hollow flute.

http://up.picr.de/27074249gk.jpg

Now he is ready and you have to be careful in dealing with it properly. This is not only pointed, but also sharp as a razor blade .... smile


The reaming with the cannon drill was still the simplest, but as a first hole with a 0.3mm drill 2.5mm deep clean without breaking it off and then from the other side stepwise before to drill and the small hole have to meet perfectly Was not so simple. The rubbing against it already, That needs only a little patience, but functions very simply.

http://up.picr.de/27076196ry.jpg

http://up.picr.de/27076197sd.jpg

Now I just have to see how I get a few shavings from the inside, which I still see under the magnifying glass ...

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Re: I try again to build an optimized nozzle

I would try to get away from brass. Otherwise your choice of filament is limited.

Printing since 2009 and still love it!
Anycubic 4MAX best $225 ever invested.
Voxelabs Proxima SLA. 6 inch 2k Mono LCD.
Anycubic Predator, massive Delta machine. 450 x 370 print envelope.

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Re: I try again to build an optimized nozzle

This is only the prototype of a new nozzle.
For the normal filaments, brass is well suited, unless one is used mixed with carbon fibers, or metal powders.
Because of its good thermal conductivity, brass is even more suitable.
If the nozzle but worked well I leave it still with a special slip coating provided with us and has proved itself very well. Then these filaments are no longer a problem.

Here is the link to the coater:

http://www.mapa-refining.de/produkte/

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Re: I try again to build an optimized nozzle

So, after I have recovered my nozzle (I had placed them in a safe place and forgot where ...) I have now freed them from the chips.

For this I measured them visually and with the USB microscope.

Here is the nozzle tip in which is a hole with exactly 0.3mm. It does not look nearly as rough as the Chinese stuff. Tongue
I have deliberately not further pointed, since it would otherwise become too sensitive.

http://up.picr.de/27160399us.jpg

Also inside it is in my opinion quite well as one can recognize in the two pictures. The recognizable scratches from drilling are minimal.

http://up.picr.de/27160398vu.jpg

Also the cone fits to the tip. The heel at the end around the hole is only an optical illusion, as the cone is steadily steeper and there are also a few very fine grooves.

http://up.picr.de/27160400nz.jpg

With the production itself, I am so completely satisfied since everything has worked as I imagined. Now I'm just waiting for my Hyper-Core to finish with its program until next week and then the nozzle is installed. If she then does what I hope I will still make one and to coat.

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Re: I try again to build an optimized nozzle

Soooo, today I have the new nozzle times built-in and try to adjust just on it.

Partially, it now behaves like an airbrush nozzle. Even with this nozzle I need, despite the completely different construction and the much larger mass of the nozzle significantly higher temperatures under pressure, so up to 30 ° C. One multiplies immediately if it is too cold when the sheets are printed only interrupted. The layers are set just as precisely as with an airbrush nozzle and the flow setting must be made as well as sensitive. If it fits all, you get excellent smooth top players.

But what I still fight is the very unusual behavior for the retract. I now have no more and relax the Bowden only and not even completely. Currently, I pull 0.2mm less than the game of the Bowden is back and that even with a relatively low speed. There are still virtually no threads. The interplay of the Extra Restart Distance and Coast at End I have not really. With the Extra Restart Distance I am now already very minimal plus and Coast at End I have minimized to 0.1mm. That seems however with many small Retrakts still not sufficient to be able to print even fine prints, especially if many retractions are very short successively. This is somewhat illogical, which should be adjusted just a slight overdosing, but I get that out.

Currently, however, I already print the forearms and hands to a doll. Since I then have the direct comparison.

http://up.picr.de/27208892ds.jpg

http://up.picr.de/27208894hb.jpg

http://up.picr.de/27208895og.jpg

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Re: I try again to build an optimized nozzle

The first really pressure is better than hoped ....: D

Simply put, no problems. I have hit the retract better than expected. I find the change of the layer is no longer, the rather thin support stands at full height without any error and the minimal threads the nozzle has still pulled after I practically in the end has no more one can almost blow away ....: cool:

http://up.picr.de/27225480ys.jpg

http://up.picr.de/27225483mz.jpg

http://up.picr.de/27225485gl.jpg

http://up.picr.de/27225487om.jpg

Now runs something new with a different PLA and filigreer ... see.

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Re: I try again to build an optimized nozzle

Very interesting read thank you.

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Re: I try again to build an optimized nozzle

I believe that the drill you made would be called a d-bit here in North America. Very precise and well done. Thanks

I was cut out to be rich ... but ... I was sewn up all wrong!
Wanhao Duplicator I3 Plus with glass bed, MK10 All Metal Hot End

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Re: I try again to build an optimized nozzle

That is some impressive work!