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Topic: Getting started with a second hand Solidoodle 4

Yes Solidoodle went bankrupt. Yes the Solidoodle 4 is not unanimously recommended by their owners, but I bought one, as I planned to since the first gen comes out.

I'm not new to 3D prototyping, as an happy owner of the first gen. PrintrBot Jr. and having a CNC machine that can process aluminium.

But I can't figure out how to start with my new SD4. I would like to try first to print some object without doing any upgrades, just to see what it's capable of "out of the box", then I would like to mod it in order to get decent 8"x8"x2" PLA prints.

I already have Repetier host installed for my printrbot, but I don't know how to set the configurations for the SD4 with stock extruder. Can you help me with that ?

I heard that ordering a e3d extruder will became necessary, so I think I will buy the lite version. But should-I upgrade the motherboard too ? Why the flashing process is necessary ?

I heard that the main issue of this printer is a "backlash problem", did someone find a solution for it ? (http://forums.reprap.org/read.php?262,432789)

Thank you for your help !

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Re: Getting started with a second hand Solidoodle 4

Welcome to the forum . Yes the SD4 is capable of decent pla prints as built. It may need some adjustment and tuning.
I added a glass plate that is treated with hair spray and a well nut to help with z backlash. Otherwise pretty much stock.
Tin

Soliddoodle 4 stock w glass bed------Folger Tech Prusa 2020 upgraded to and titan /aero extruder mirror bed
FT5 with titan/ E3D Aero------MP mini select w glass bed
MP Utimate maker pro-W bondtech extruder
Marlin/Repetier Host/ Slic3r and Cura

3 (edited by luks 2016-10-17 11:34:09)

Re: Getting started with a second hand Solidoodle 4

Thank you for your quick reply ! I already have a glass panel on top of the printing bed. For now, my main problem is that I can't find a version of Repetier Host for Solidoodle that includes the SD4 settings. I got the one for Mac OS from this link : http://www.soliwiki.com/Official_Solido … e_Download

But I just have the settings configured for the SD2 or 3 but not for the 4th one...

Also, It seems that my print head isn't quite aligned with the printer. Should I try to fix it or leave it how it is ?

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4 (edited by heartless 2016-10-17 11:47:32)

Re: Getting started with a second hand Solidoodle 4

welcome to the forums.

First things first - before you even plug it in, make sure everything is snug and moves smoothly - no slop, or binding, anywhere. I wouldnt be so concerned with the angle as much as correct movement.

You will need to install the correct the drivers for your SD4 before you can do anything else, So make sure you have that done before moving on.

You do not need a special "version" of RH to run your SD4, just set it up correctly manually, and you will be fine.

To set it up in RH, open Config>Printer Settings and under Printer Shape set it as a "Classic Printer" with home positions of X = Max, Y = Max, & Z = Min... you can probably set your Z height larger than what I have shown here - I use a bed stabilizer on the front the rides on bearings against the frame, so I can only go so far down with out binding... 

http://soliforum.com/i/?wkTs8J3.jpg

On the Extruder tab, you want it to look something like this - except your max temp with the stock hotend will be more like 245 if I recall correctly (it may be a little lower than that)...

http://soliforum.com/i/?4ZGYFmm.jpg

on the Printer tab, the default settings work pretty well  - the only thing you may want to change here is the default temp settings (I run primarily ABS so mine are different than what you would use for PLA). Park positions will be at 0 by default, so you may want to change those.

http://soliforum.com/i/?L90fW1T.jpg

And last, but certainly not least - the Connection tab... Make sure you have the correct COM port for it selected. I highly recommend going into Device Manager and specifying a higher COM port than what Windows assigns by default. That way there is no concern about the Com port being stolen by another device by accident.

At the top, make sure you properly name the printer to make selecting it easier in the drop down menu, then click on Apply, and you should be ready to connect. I have 5 different printers set up in my RH, each with it's own unique name. All of them were set up manually.

If properly cared for, the stock hotend does an OK job. But to upgrade to an E3D, the reason for flashing the firmware is to set the thermistor table correctly for more accurate temp reporting, and to reset the MAX Temp.

Hope that helps. smile

SD4 #1 & #2 - Lawsy carriages, E3D v6, Rumba controller board, mirror bed plate, X motor fan, upgraded PSU & Mica bed heater
SD4 #3 - in the works ~ Folgertech FT-5, rev 1
Printit Industries Beta Tester - Horizon H1

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Re: Getting started with a second hand Solidoodle 4

Thanks a lot for your detailed answer !
I launched a 3dhub's Marvin test print with the seller before buying it, so I think that everything is checked and works properly.
What is the driver you're mentioning? Is it necessary for Mac or is it just for PC? Where can-I find it?
As you seems to configure Repetier Host from scratch, should-I use the Solidoodle modified version available here : http://www.soliwiki.com/Official_Solido … e_Download or can I use a newer universal version?
I understand now why the he flashing process is important for the e3d mod. I will buy the lite version soon if the print results aren't good enough with the stock one.

Thanks again for your support, IT DOES HELP :-)

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Re: Getting started with a second hand Solidoodle 4

i have no idea of the requirements for a Mac - don't have one of those. Someone else will need to step in for that.

I have always configured RH manually, never downloaded any profiles for any of my printers - Just downloaded RH (once) and set it up manually - it is not hard to do.

SD4 #1 & #2 - Lawsy carriages, E3D v6, Rumba controller board, mirror bed plate, X motor fan, upgraded PSU & Mica bed heater
SD4 #3 - in the works ~ Folgertech FT-5, rev 1
Printit Industries Beta Tester - Horizon H1

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Re: Getting started with a second hand Solidoodle 4

I also have a Dell laptop with a 1,8 GHz core i5 and windows 10, but I've an issue with the RAM that is stuck to 2Gb. So I can try on a PC before getting help on a Mac, even if it will be quite slower... So please tell me what is the driver you mentioned above, and where can I find it ?

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Re: Getting started with a second hand Solidoodle 4

Don't know if I can be much help since I have a heavily modified SD2, but I use Windows 10 on 2 machines,  Win 7 on 1 and an IMac OS Sierra 10.12.  I tend to to print with the Windows machines and RH, latest version.  I also print with the Mac and RH,  but the the RH version hasn't been upgraded in at least 3 years - still uses version 0.56 - whereas the Windows version has been consistently upgraded.  The overall operation speed is roughly the same on all of my machines - laptop Win 7 4G ram, 1.9 gHz;  Win 10 4G ram, I5 3.2 gHz; Win 10 12G ram, I5 3.1 gHz & IMac 16G ram, I5 3.2 gHz.  The printer itself is going to print at a set speed regardless of what machine is driving it.  There might be a slight difference in slicing and preparing the file to print, but I don't bother with measuring seconds.  Drivers - I installed a driver for the Win machines, but I don't recall installing anything for the Mac, I'm probably wrong, but I can't remember what I had for supper last nite, let alone 3 years ago.  I still have a copy of the Windows driver. 
If you follow Heartless' configuration your machine will work.  The configuration set-up in RH for the Mac is almost identical. 
I will look for a Mac driver - can't guarantee anything.....

Ender 3 Pro

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Re: Getting started with a second hand Solidoodle 4

Indeed, it works without any driver on Macs.
I followed all the instructions given by heartless and it worked, I was able to home all correctly, thank you!
I found some impressive prints made by heartless, specially a BatBuddha and a set of chess pieces that I'll love to be able to print!

For now, I will play with the Slicer settings, but what about my extruder bloc that is not aligned to the x/y axis? (the attached image in my second post)

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Re: Getting started with a second hand Solidoodle 4

There is a file on thiniverse for aluminum carriages for the sd4

Soliddoodle 4 stock w glass bed------Folger Tech Prusa 2020 upgraded to and titan /aero extruder mirror bed
FT5 with titan/ E3D Aero------MP mini select w glass bed
MP Utimate maker pro-W bondtech extruder
Marlin/Repetier Host/ Slic3r and Cura

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Re: Getting started with a second hand Solidoodle 4

luks wrote:

Indeed, it works without any driver on Macs.
I followed all the instructions given by heartless and it worked, I was able to home all correctly, thank you!
I found some impressive prints made by heartless, specially a BatBuddha and a set of chess pieces that I'll love to be able to print!

For now, I will play with the Slicer settings, but what about my extruder bloc that is not aligned to the x/y axis? (the attached image in my second post)

the extruder block not being square is really not that big of a deal as long as it moves smoothly.

the chess set can be found here: http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:40632

That particular Bat Buddha I can't seem to find anymore - I downloaded it but never saved it in a collection. hmm there are a bunch of "Buddha" variations out there, tho, I am sure you can find something you like.

Once you get it up and running, you may want to look into printing up a set of Lawsy's carriages to convert it over to linear bearings instead of bushings (and you can straighten out that extruder block at the same time if it really bugs you wink )

SD4 #1 & #2 - Lawsy carriages, E3D v6, Rumba controller board, mirror bed plate, X motor fan, upgraded PSU & Mica bed heater
SD4 #3 - in the works ~ Folgertech FT-5, rev 1
Printit Industries Beta Tester - Horizon H1

12

Re: Getting started with a second hand Solidoodle 4

Thanks again for your help, as Tin Falcon planned to, I went through some adjustments an tunings that I wanted to share with you.

I tried to have a scientific approach, printing a Marvin print test after every changes, in order to figure out the effect of each parameters.

First, I printed one in 0.2mm layer height with the SD as it was when I bought it (the first one from the left):
http://imageshack.com/a/img922/3664/eojiqu.jpg
http://imageshack.com/a/img924/52/NlWG6u.jpg

Then, I designed a Dial indicator holder to be able to level the bed precisely. It has a clamb that have to be attached to the left extruder fan, and it can be easily detachable.
It can be downloaded here : http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1841832
http://imageshack.com/a/img922/4161/wQjmhJ.jpg

After that I printed the second Marvin from the left, also in 0.2mm layer height.
As you can see, there is no noticeable improvement between those, it's even worse at the bottom (I forgot to level the z after leveling x & y, so the bed was too high and was touching the hot end nozzle)

Then, I added a fan mount, witch I designed to be the thinnest I can and to fit with a MacBook fan I got from a broken motherboard, in order to avoid a ducting system, that generally impact the air flow (from my experience with my PrintrBot)
It can be downloaded here : http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1842003
http://imageshack.com/a/img922/308/7Ja9Lo.jpg

After that I printed the third Marvin from the left, also in 0.2mm layer height.
Finally, I get really noticeable improvements, with even a start of keychain hook.
But "holes" was still very noticeable in some layers, making it easily literally sliceable :-)

So, I went through the extruder calibration process, that you already knows and can be found here: https://solidoodletips.wordpress.com/20 … libration/

After that I printed the fourth Marvin from the left, also in 0.2mm layer height, and the fifth in 0,1mm.
I'm pretty happy with the result, but I wanted to know want do you think I should consider to do as next improvements?

I found a link to purchase a printed kit of the Lawsy carriage but I would like to get the 3D file in order to fork an aluminum-machined version. Do-you know where I could find it ?

Also Tin Falcon mentioned an aluminum carriage already designed for the SD4, but I can't find it, anyone knows where it is ?

I did a circle test an the result is not great
http://imageshack.com/a/img924/185/rLQoOG.jpg

And as you can see in this video, my bed isn't really flat, causing the leveling process hard to achieve correctly.

If I was quite unsatisfied at the beginning, with a print quality way worse than what my self assembled PrintrBot Jr. can do. But after 12h of tuning and adjustments and a good help from the community, the print quality have largely increased and I've to say that I'm starting to love my SD4, specially it's "Pacman sounds" while it's printing :-)

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Re: Getting started with a second hand Solidoodle 4

Welcome to my obsession. wink I have two SD4s - both have been tweaked and heavily modified.

to help with your circles, you need to make sure the Y belts are aligned and tensioned properly.

carefully inspect the front idler pulley mounts to make sure there are no cracks in them (you may want to print out a pair of these at high infill as soon as possible as the stock pieces tend to be a problem due to low infill. there are plenty of models on thingiverse. I used these to start with: http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:79737 )

then, with the printer unplugged, adjust tension on the Y belts so they are equal, loosen the set screws on the rear pulleys (on the smooth rod that runs across the back of the printer) and work the gantry back and forth by hand to get the pulleys to align themselves with the gantry. stop the gantry about halfway, making sure it is not twisted on the rods at all, and tighten the set screws back up. check belt tension again to make sure they are still equal.
(there used to be a video on how to do this, but it seems to have disappeared, along with a whole host of other information)

also make sure the small loop belt is tensioned properly - without bending the smooth rod in the back... this can be tricky if you have one without the pillow bearing to the right of the looped belt (one of mine has it, one doesn't)

You may also want to look at a front bed stabilizer - again, there are several options available on thingiverse for this.
I used this one: http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:195266. I found that some brass tubing I already had on hand was a close fit with just a little filing so I didnt need to buy the CF rod. The only problem with this one is you do lose a little bit of Z height due to the way the frame is configured - the bearings can not ride over the lower lip.

And for your glass bed topper - loose the binder clips - stick the glass on with hairspray instead. If you are in the US, go pick up a can of Aqua Net Super Extra Hold hairspray (in the purple can) - spray one side of the glass - damp, but not dripping wet - and set it on the bed. Heat to 60C, then turn the heater off and let it cool completely - repeat 2 or 3 times more to fully set the hairspray. the glass wont move until you decide you want to move it by slipping a putty knife under it and working around the edge to pop it loose.

the Aqua Net is also quite good for print adhesion on the bed. wink

SD4 #1 & #2 - Lawsy carriages, E3D v6, Rumba controller board, mirror bed plate, X motor fan, upgraded PSU & Mica bed heater
SD4 #3 - in the works ~ Folgertech FT-5, rev 1
Printit Industries Beta Tester - Horizon H1

14

Re: Getting started with a second hand Solidoodle 4

oh yeah - additional notes...

Get a fan blowing over the controller board to keep it cool - excessive heat will kill it! On my #2 I drilled a hole in the side and mounted an 80mm fan

http://soliforum.com/i/?RWFLFbr.jpg

and I also recommend a fan on the X motor as well to prevent skipped steps. X fan mount: http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:128526
You can re-purpose the fan that is located in the upper right rear of the case for this.

SD4 #1 & #2 - Lawsy carriages, E3D v6, Rumba controller board, mirror bed plate, X motor fan, upgraded PSU & Mica bed heater
SD4 #3 - in the works ~ Folgertech FT-5, rev 1
Printit Industries Beta Tester - Horizon H1