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Topic: How do you determine tolerance??

Hi All!

I'm hoping this wonderful community can help me figure out the proper print for a given tolerance on 3D Printed parts.

This weekend I printed the X-Axis motor fan holder/shroud, but it didn't fit until I filed nearly 1 mm from each side. I'm pretty sure my prints are spot on, but I believe the problem is I didn't account for Extrusion Width. How much do I need to adjust the design given I have a .48 mm EW. If there is a formula, I love formulas, please provide! and can I get away with scaling X & Y or do I need to redo the model?? I will translate for the Hispanic forum, if I can find a clear answer.

Thanks in advance, you are welcome to fill in any gaps with useful assumptions, but please provide your logic so my poor brain can follow along.

Nema 14 stepper 36.63mm base

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2 (edited by Don9mm 2015-02-17 01:54:17)

Re: How do you determine tolerance??

I think you already have your answer but may not realize it. I've found allowing for a 1  mm tolerance works pretty good. If two pieces need to fit together, design to spec and then subtract 1 mm on any edges that need to fit together. Personally, the hardest part for me was shifting from the mindset of fine machinery tolerances, to 3D printing tolerances. A thirty second of an inch just seems awful sloppy and I have a terrible time forcing myself to design stuff that way. You can tighten that up a bit using the best print quality settings, but using an average print quality and speed, 1  mm should get you where you need to be on most things.

3

Re: How do you determine tolerance??

Thanks, I'll try that.

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4

Re: How do you determine tolerance??

Don9mm wrote:

I think you already have your answer but may not realize it. I've found allowing for a 1  mm tolerance works pretty good. If two pieces need to fit together, design to spec and then subtract 1 mm on any edges that need to fit together. Personally, the hardest part for me was shifting from the mindset of fine machinery tolerances, to 3D printing tolerances. A thirty second of an inch just seems awful sloppy and I have a terrible time forcing myself to design stuff that way. You can tighten that up a bit using the best print quality settings, but using an average print quality and speed, 1  mm should get you where you need to be on most things.


Really 1mm? You may want to check the tuning on your machine. I can easily allow for .3mm maybe .5mm at most on all my prints from paper to print. Also the issue is not so much the machine but the shrinkage of the material as it cools. ABS shrinks by about 2% once cooled so you need to oversize all your dimensions by 2% when making a design. PLA is usually around 1% shrinkage. This % can very to a small degree even within the same vendor and different batches as well.

What I did was made a model that is 50mm long, 20mm wide, 10mm tall, with two 15mm vertical bores through it with 20mm between the bores. I print this with every filament change and measure the shrinkage vs the actual dimensions and then I know the shrinkage % for that roll and can adjust my designs accordingly. I even started a spread sheet with various vendors and their colors and the shrinkage so that I can use it for reference. Again though I have seen some variance which is still acceptable with the same vendor and same color but different batch.

Printing since 2009 and still love it!
Anycubic 4MAX best $225 ever invested.
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5

Re: How do you determine tolerance??

carl_m1968 wrote:
Don9mm wrote:

I think you already have your answer but may not realize it. I've found allowing for a 1  mm tolerance works pretty good. If two pieces need to fit together, design to spec and then subtract 1 mm on any edges that need to fit together. Personally, the hardest part for me was shifting from the mindset of fine machinery tolerances, to 3D printing tolerances. A thirty second of an inch just seems awful sloppy and I have a terrible time forcing myself to design stuff that way. You can tighten that up a bit using the best print quality settings, but using an average print quality and speed, 1  mm should get you where you need to be on most things.


Really 1mm? You may want to check the tuning on your machine. I can easily allow for .3mm maybe .5mm at most on all my prints from paper to print. Also the issue is not so much the machine but the shrinkage of the material as it cools. ABS shrinks by about 2% once cooled so you need to oversize all your dimensions by 2% when making a design. PLA is usually around 1% shrinkage. This % can very to a small degree even within the same vendor and different batches as well.

What I did was made a model that is 50mm long, 20mm wide, 10mm tall, with two 15mm vertical bores through it with 20mm between the bores. I print this with every filament change and measure the shrinkage vs the actual dimensions and then I know the shrinkage % for that roll and can adjust my designs accordingly. I even started a spread sheet with various vendors and their colors and the shrinkage so that I can use it for reference. Again though I have seen some variance which is still acceptable with the same vendor and same color but different batch.

I don't get it. One guy asks a simple question. Another guy offers a simple answer. Then, someone like you pops up to argue about it, providing ABSOLUTELY NO USEFUL INFORMATION WHATSOEVER! Putting calipers on a part I just printed, spec is 1.5" and it measures 1/64" over spec, or approximately .3 mm. That's printing slow and low. If I bump up the print speed and layer height to get a fast print, 1 mm over spec is typical. Your nonsense about 2% shrinkage is absurd on its face. This is 3D printing, NOT injection moulding. The layers cool in real time running, with each following layer deposited to spec on top of the already cooled layer below. Your abrasive response might be foregivable if you were right, but you're not. If you have the flow rate properly adjusted for the filament you're using, variations in tolerances are primarily affected by speed and layer height. It's like a child drawing in a coloring book. It's easier to keep it inside the lines if you go slow. The faster you go, the farther outside the lines it gets, which is what I said in the previous post. While we're at it, if you want a relatively simple solution for adjusting flow rates on different batches of filament, here's a system I worked out that works quite well, without a whole lot of fooling around:

http://www.soliforum.com/post/79455/#p79455

The variations you describe for your test prints on different batches of filament are most likely caused by an improper flow rate pushing excess material out to the sides of the nozzle. The tolerances on filament diameter are relatively loose, so it's never going to be absolutely perfect, but getting it in the ballpark will give you results consistent enough to live with.

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Re: How do you determine tolerance??

Don9mm wrote:
carl_m1968 wrote:
Don9mm wrote:

I think you already have your answer but may not realize it. I've found allowing for a 1  mm tolerance works pretty good. If two pieces need to fit together, design to spec and then subtract 1 mm on any edges that need to fit together. Personally, the hardest part for me was shifting from the mindset of fine machinery tolerances, to 3D printing tolerances. A thirty second of an inch just seems awful sloppy and I have a terrible time forcing myself to design stuff that way. You can tighten that up a bit using the best print quality settings, but using an average print quality and speed, 1  mm should get you where you need to be on most things.


Really 1mm? You may want to check the tuning on your machine. I can easily allow for .3mm maybe .5mm at most on all my prints from paper to print. Also the issue is not so much the machine but the shrinkage of the material as it cools. ABS shrinks by about 2% once cooled so you need to oversize all your dimensions by 2% when making a design. PLA is usually around 1% shrinkage. This % can very to a small degree even within the same vendor and different batches as well.

What I did was made a model that is 50mm long, 20mm wide, 10mm tall, with two 15mm vertical bores through it with 20mm between the bores. I print this with every filament change and measure the shrinkage vs the actual dimensions and then I know the shrinkage % for that roll and can adjust my designs accordingly. I even started a spread sheet with various vendors and their colors and the shrinkage so that I can use it for reference. Again though I have seen some variance which is still acceptable with the same vendor and same color but different batch.

I don't get it. One guy asks a simple question. Another guy offers a simple answer. Then, someone like you pops up to argue about it, providing ABSOLUTELY NO USEFUL INFORMATION WHATSOEVER! Putting calipers on a part I just printed, spec is 1.5" and it measures 1/64" over spec, or approximately .3 mm. That's printing slow and low. If I bump up the print speed and layer height to get a fast print, 1 mm over spec is typical. Your nonsense about 2% shrinkage is absurd on its face. This is 3D printing, NOT injection moulding. The layers cool in real time running, with each following layer deposited to spec on top of the already cooled layer below. Your abrasive response might be foregivable if you were right, but you're not. If you have the flow rate properly adjusted for the filament you're using, variations in tolerances are primarily affected by speed and layer height. It's like a child drawing in a coloring book. It's easier to keep it inside the lines if you go slow. The faster you go, the farther outside the lines it gets, which is what I said in the previous post. While we're at it, if you want a relatively simple solution for adjusting flow rates on different batches of filament, here's a system I worked out that works quite well, without a whole lot of fooling around:

http://www.soliforum.com/post/79455/#p79455

The variations you describe for your test prints on different batches of filament are most likely caused by an improper flow rate pushing excess material out to the sides of the nozzle. The tolerances on filament diameter are relatively loose, so it's never going to be absolutely perfect, but getting it in the ballpark will give you results consistent enough to live with.


It was not my intention to sound abrasive. I was just trying to point out that tolerance issue are most often not the machine fault.

I was actually wrong about the shrink rate of ABS. It is 8% and a simple Google search will confirm this.

http://www.fabbaloo.com/blog/2014/5/8/s … easurement

When ABS cools after printing it shrinks approximately 8%, although this will vary somewhat depending on the particular ABS in use. PLA has far less shrinkage.

This means (aside from the warping issue) that objects printed in ABS to specific sizes  will not actually be that size due to shrinkage. A 50mm print might actually be 46mm instead.

https://groups.google.com/forum/#!topic … gT-JfnEXt8

PLA for the record is only about 2% but does not hold up well under harsh environments.

Printing since 2009 and still love it!
Anycubic 4MAX best $225 ever invested.
Voxelabs Proxima SLA. 6 inch 2k Mono LCD.
Anycubic Predator, massive Delta machine. 450 x 370 print envelope.

7

Re: How do you determine tolerance??

Well with DON9MM advice  I upped my x &y by 105% which should give me the 1MM clearance and I worked, Perfect fit!!

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8 (edited by lueman 2015-02-18 01:21:27)

Re: How do you determine tolerance??

Can I just point out that 8% of .48mm is .03~.04mm OR ABOUT 4/100 of a millimeter.

I have my specs down very exact I calibrate my X,Y,Z so my calibration box is exactly 10X10X10.

It's true I get warping issues and I so love using acetone with an injection needle so it creates an ABS slurry at the first layer, my designs are solidly cemented to the base. very little warping if any at all.

Thanks for all the help!

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9

Re: How do you determine tolerance??

The way you avoid shrinkage as described in the article is create a calibration box let it cool then measure  the box adjust your x,y,y steps per millimeter accordingly I didn't have to change my X &Y E-steps but the Z e-step went from 2268 (default) to 2400. Good luck hope This helps.

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10 (edited by Don9mm 2015-02-19 05:59:59)

Re: How do you determine tolerance??

carl_m1968 wrote:

When ABS cools after printing it shrinks approximately 8%, although this will vary somewhat depending on the particular ABS in use.

A blogger from Canada and an Internet message board as a source for the 8% figure? I'd take that one with a grain of salt.

Doing a quick search, this site quotes 4-6 thousandths for shrinkage on injection molding:

http://www.injectionmoldtips.com/shrinkage.html

This site gives shrinkage ranges for different flavors of ABS from 4-7 thousandths of an inch, per inch, which would be .4% to .7%:

http://ides.typepad.com/all_about_plast … of-ab.html

I wouldn't question a ballpark figure of a half percent, but 8%? That be an eighth of an inch on a 1.5 inch part and a half inch on a 6" part. Casual observation alone should be enough to question the source on that one. Yes?

I've been using 3D printing mainly for prototyping smaller parts under 2", with 100% infill, and have been regularly checking the results with calipers. To the extent the parts vary from spec, it's always on the large side, with slow and low settings producing the smallest tolerance issues. As near as I can tell, it's the inevitable banding effect of 3D printing that causes most of it. You're basically trying to fill a square hole with a round peg. The filament comes out round, gets smooshed flat, and the distance it gets smooshed depends on how much material is being flattened. If the flow rate is too high, it squishes out farther, making the part slightly larger than intended. If there's any shrinkage taking place, I haven't found it to be significant, but the flow rate can make enough of a difference in the quality of a print to make it worth adjusting. In playing around with it, if the top layer is overly rough and getting too much of a kind of waffle pattern, the flow rate needs to be tweeked down a bit. In any case, pardon me if I over reacted to your earlier post and came off as too much of a grouch. Hopefully the resulting discussions were at least a little bit productive.

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Re: How do you determine tolerance??

Don9mm:

This is why I think this is a great forum! Thank for your informative answers. It's members like you that truly support this growing industry. Now if only there was some way to make money at this!

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12

Re: How do you determine tolerance??

A good guess for plastic shrinkage is to multiply the difference between the room temp and glass transition ("melting") temp by the thermal expansion coefficient of the material: e.g. for ABS (105 - 20) * 7.38e-5 = 0.63%

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Re: How do you determine tolerance??

As a general rule our default tolerances are +/-.005" and/or GD&T True Position of .014". These numbers are relatively easy to achieve on most standard machining equipment with proper setups. The true position tolerance of .014" is based on manufacturability and interchangability studies, basically achieving a 95% interchangability between parts. Since we usually only do "production runs" of 1-10 components, I haven't run into any problems. For "precision features" like locating holes, press-fit pins, datum surfaces etc. I may use +/-.001" or even +.001" -.000 depending on the application (a hole for a precision bearing may be even tighter, like +/-.0001"); locating pins also usually get a GD&T true position of .009" or better depending on requirements of orientation and the distace between two pins.
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Re: How do you determine tolerance??

As a general rule our default tolerances are +/-.005" and/or GD&T True Position of .014". These numbers are relatively easy to achieve on most standard machining equipment with proper setups. The true position tolerance of .014" is based on manufacturability and interchangability studies, basically achieving a 95% interchangability between parts. Since we usually only do "production runs" of 1-10 components, I haven't run into any problems. For "precision features" like locating holes, press-fit pins, datum surfaces etc. I may use +/-.001" or even +.001" -.000 depending on the application (a hole for a precision bearing may be even tighter, like +/-.0001"); locating pins also usually get a GD&T true position of .009" or better depending on requirements of orientation and the distace between two pins. +/-.050 is a pretty loose tolerance in my world, that's bidirectionally .100" which would be ok for maybe outside dimensions on a large plate, but is too loose for hole positioning or precision features. But it all depends on what you're building. If you're building a ship, +/-1.0" over it's length is a very tight tolerance; if you're building an interferometer, every micron counts.

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