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Topic: Prints lifting on glass bed

Hi, I have just bought a glass plate for my prusa i3 and my prints just pop off half way through printing.
I am using ABS juice as an adhesive which I thought would work well but I guess I was wrong. Could anybody give me some tips on what I could do please??
Thanks!

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Re: Prints lifting on glass bed

Wez00 wrote:

Hi, I have just bought a glass plate for my prusa i3 and my prints just pop off half way through printing.
I am using ABS juice as an adhesive which I thought would work well but I guess I was wrong. Could anybody give me some tips on what I could do please??
Thanks!


Aquanet hairspray far exceeds anything else you could use. I assume your bed is heated and is set for 90c or so?

Printing since 2009 and still love it!
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Re: Prints lifting on glass bed

Hi yes my bed is heated to 100c. Hairspray is better than ABS juice?
Thanks

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Re: Prints lifting on glass bed

Wez00 wrote:

Hi yes my bed is heated to 100c. Hairspray is better than ABS juice?
Thanks

Yes
Aquanet Extreme hold.  Enclosing the printer if it's not already also helps a lot.

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Thanks to all for your contributions

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Re: Prints lifting on glass bed

Thanks alot i will try this now.

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Re: Prints lifting on glass bed

+ 1 for Aquanet on glass I print with PLA But works great.
This link may also help https://www.simplify3d.com/getting-prints-to-stick/ 
Tin

Soliddoodle 4 stock w glass bed------Folger Tech Prusa 2020 upgraded to and titan /aero extruder mirror bed
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Re: Prints lifting on glass bed

Another vote for the Aqua Net - Super Extra Hold (in the purple can)

I use it for pretty much everything - ABS, PLA, PETG, even some Nylon (depending on part size)

for ABS use -heat the bed to about 60C, spray the bed in a side to side motion and let it set up. Spray again in a forward back motion and let that set up.
you should be ok at this point to finish heating the bed to the desired temp, but just to be sure, I like to spray one more time in a diagonal pattern to make sure I have the bed covered completely & there are no bare spots - but that is just me.  tongue

One application should be good for multiple prints, too.

For PLA & PETG, just a light, single coating is all that is really needed.

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Re: Prints lifting on glass bed

I used hairspray for my Press (ABS), but now, with my delta, I found that Glue Stick does wonders for PLA. Also, if you print in ABS, you MUST have an enclosed printing chamber and also very few temperature variations (this means room temperature constant).

Fat kids are harder to kidnap!

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Re: Prints lifting on glass bed

I only use abs juice on glass and its the only think that works 100% of the time for me, i just mix it thin and spread layers with a paper towel. 
i've used hairspray and glue sticks but for big abs, pc/abs parts abs juice is the only thing that locks it down.
with pla or colorfabb ngen/xt just use painters tape.

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Re: Prints lifting on glass bed

Enclose that bad boy! For really big prints, try using a brim also.

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11 (edited by NicoleJS 2020-06-07 06:36:36)

Re: Prints lifting on glass bed

f you are not using any 'glue', temperature and having a spotlessly clean plate are the key. Some folks use ABS juice which is just some filament dissolved in acetone. And that works for them. But also check your glass plate and make sure it is flat, even at temp.
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12 (edited by wagnmkr 2016-09-25 11:55:13)

Re: Prints lifting on glass bed

I just switched from blue tape that suddenly started to give me problems, to glass and hair spray. I have not been able to find Aquanet up here in Canada, but I found that ordinary, dollar store stuff works just fine as well as Finesse from Walmart. My parts are now coming off flat, with an excellent bottom surface.

I printed a large piece yesterday that was nearly 6" square. I left it on the bed last night to cool and this morning it just popped right off of the bed and it is absolutely flat.

The other thing I found is that sometimes the layer of hairspray comes off with the print, leaving a clean glass surface in spots. I just wash the glass in warm water, dry it off, spray it and go back to printing ... takes less than a couple of minutes for the whole process.

Happy Printing

Tom

I was cut out to be rich ... but ... I was sewn up all wrong!
Wanhao Duplicator I3 Plus with glass bed, MK10 All Metal Hot End

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Re: Prints lifting on glass bed

I've had good luck with hair spray on glass too but my Robox came with a PEI (Polyetherimide plastic) bed. It grips like hell when it is warm or hot but as soon as it cools down the ABS part lifts off with a feather touch. Amazing. Never had a part let go while printing or had to fight to scrape a part off the bed. Cheap too.

Search Ebay for PEI or click here:
http://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?&_fr … nkw=pei%20

Robox printer, HICTOP (Prusa i3 variant) Model 3DP17 printer, ELEK 2.5W laser engraver, AutoDesk 123D Design, Windows 10

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Re: Prints lifting on glass bed

I've tried both hairspray and glue stick and I can say that hairspray sometimes stuck too well for me.. So much so that it was a real pain to remove. I also didn't really like the chemical smell,  this was before I built my enclosure.


Elmer's glue sticks work really well for me. You only need to put down a thin layer on the glass.. Just one coating. And then the prints stick really well and once they're cold it should pop off

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Re: Prints lifting on glass bed

madfalcon81 wrote:

I used hairspray for my Press (ABS), but now, with my delta, I found that Glue Stick does wonders for PLA. Also, if you print in ABS, you MUST have an enclosed printing chamber and also very few temperature variations (this means room temperature constant).


It isn't an absolute "must", but it does improve the chances of good results greatly.
There are plenty of folks that print ABS successfully without an enclosure.

SD4 #1 & #2 - Lawsy carriages, E3D v6, Rumba controller board, mirror bed plate, X motor fan, upgraded PSU & Mica bed heater
SD4 #3 - in the works ~ Folgertech FT-5, rev 1
Printit Industries Beta Tester - Horizon H1

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Re: Prints lifting on glass bed

Hairspray, Bluetape and all the other aids we have not used for a long time.
Most of us now print on a polished 1mm thick phenolic paper. We stick the 3M 476mp glue directly onto the bed and print on it. On phenolic paper everything is kept except polypropylene and can be removed well after the cold well again. For this, it is very cheap, almost do not destroy and holds longer than the printer.

http://up.picr.de/26945181qe.jpg

http://up.picr.de/26682717et.jpg

http://up.picr.de/26682722af.jpg

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Re: Prints lifting on glass bed

Hi. I have been printing for more than 800 hours with Da Vinci 1.0A without any prints sticking to the bed, prints lifting and warping from the bed or having a cracked glass bed. I am only using Pritt Magic Blue Glue and I get +- 15 prints from each glue application. The glue is water soluble and easy to remove from the glass bed with a damp cloth. When applying the Blue Pritt it has a blueish colour but within seconds it turns transparent. My bed temp is 100 Degrees Celsius. Prints literally jump off the bed when the bed cools down to about 50 Degrees Celsius and I have never used razor blades and other glass bed damaging tools.
Try Blue Pritt guys it is a much better option than Blue Builders tape, any other tape, hairspray and ABS in acetone mixes. It is not only available in South Africa and can be purchased worldwide. (PS. I do not work for Pritt, it s just a good product.  I own a computer franchise and I sell computers and 3D printers).
http://soliforum.com/i/?w9C8p8v.png


Regards
Deon

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Re: Prints lifting on glass bed

Hi Deon,

With us in Germany seem to be the Pritt stick pin from something else and you can not use it. This does not hold anything. We use when we use such a UHU stick

Greetings Edwin