26

Re: solidoodle 3 power supply options?

redbarret wrote:

Wow, I've been using a 30A power supply without jumpers for the 2 V+ and 2 V- s for a while now. Does that mean I've only been providing 15A max for my printer?

If you've only been using one of the three terminals then I think that means that you've only been providing 10amps,  one third of the 30amp maximum, to your printer. 

To everyone else, I have just gone and bought this new power supply from eBay. It's rated at 400w in case I want to upgraded  my heated bed later on. I am looking at this for the 16AWG cable that I need to connect the power supply to the printer and I need to know if it would be ok.

Thanks in advance for your help.
Matt

27

Re: solidoodle 3 power supply options?

redbarret wrote:

Wow, I've been using a 30A power supply without jumpers for the 2 V+ and 2 V- s for a while now. Does that mean I've only been providing 15A max for my printer?

Probably not this is most likely a flaw in design of the SuperNight.  For its price it is a decent PSU robust it is NOT.  You would notice if your PSU wasn't delivering enough power.  Slow bed heat up times and flickering LED's.

Printit Industries Model 8.10 fully enclosed CoreXY, Chamber heat
3-SD3's & a Workbench all fully enclosed, RH-Slic3r Win7pro, E3D V6, Volcano & Cyclops Hot End
SSR/500W AC Heated Glass Bed, Linear bearings on SS rods. Direct Drive Y-axis, BulldogXL
Thanks to all for your contributions

28

Re: solidoodle 3 power supply options?

wardjr wrote:

Slow bed heat up times and flickering LED's.

hehe, check and check...

Solidoodle 4

29

Re: solidoodle 3 power supply options?

redbarret wrote:
wardjr wrote:

Slow bed heat up times and flickering LED's.

hehe, check and check...

Really?  Then jump them together.  Keep in mind the barrel connector on the board is the weak link so you'll want to pay attention to that as well.

Printit Industries Model 8.10 fully enclosed CoreXY, Chamber heat
3-SD3's & a Workbench all fully enclosed, RH-Slic3r Win7pro, E3D V6, Volcano & Cyclops Hot End
SSR/500W AC Heated Glass Bed, Linear bearings on SS rods. Direct Drive Y-axis, BulldogXL
Thanks to all for your contributions

30

Re: solidoodle 3 power supply options?

Yeah, from my little knowledge I just assumed the 30A would just be allocated to the ones used. I really suck at electronics...

wardjr wrote:

Keep in mind the barrel connector on the board is the weak link so you'll want to pay attention to that as well.

I've had two Solidoodle Rev Es until now with flickering/dimming lights and fans slowing down while heater is on.
And tried several PSUs, and a powerful car battery with the same results.

Maybe this won't solve that issue, but still should provide more than 10A to the priner I guess.

BTW, how would you recommend to do this with the M2K heatbed/w relay which should arrive soon? One V- and V+ for it and the other twos for the rest of the printer?

Solidoodle 4

31

Re: solidoodle 3 power supply options?

Yep toss in an SSR and you should be good to go.

Printit Industries Model 8.10 fully enclosed CoreXY, Chamber heat
3-SD3's & a Workbench all fully enclosed, RH-Slic3r Win7pro, E3D V6, Volcano & Cyclops Hot End
SSR/500W AC Heated Glass Bed, Linear bearings on SS rods. Direct Drive Y-axis, BulldogXL
Thanks to all for your contributions

32

Re: solidoodle 3 power supply options?

Thank you.

Solidoodle 4

33

Re: solidoodle 3 power supply options?

Quintox303 wrote:

To everyone else, I have just gone and bought this new power supply from eBay. It's rated at 400w in case I want to upgraded  my heated bed later on. I am looking at this for the 16AWG cable that I need to connect the power supply to the printer and I need to know if it would be ok.


Anyone?

34

Re: solidoodle 3 power supply options?

That wouldn't be my first choice as it will be difficult to determine polarity.
You probably have a number of items in your home that no longer work.  Steal the cord off of something or buy wire that is 16 gauge 2 strand black and red or black and white.  Any hardware store sells it by the foot.  You don't need to limit yourself to 16 gauge either.  14 gauge is a little thicker so it's harder to work with but it will handle more current.

Printit Industries Model 8.10 fully enclosed CoreXY, Chamber heat
3-SD3's & a Workbench all fully enclosed, RH-Slic3r Win7pro, E3D V6, Volcano & Cyclops Hot End
SSR/500W AC Heated Glass Bed, Linear bearings on SS rods. Direct Drive Y-axis, BulldogXL
Thanks to all for your contributions

35

Re: solidoodle 3 power supply options?

Hi everyone. I've come across the post while looking into adding an E3D V6 hotend to my Solidoodle workbench apprentice. I was wondering if any of you could give me some tips on how to go about this without accidentally frying my board lol, the solidoodle engineers couldn't get back to me. From what I've read so far it seems like the only modification I really need to make before installing the E3D is to the power supply so I can reach the high temperatures I need. I have a spare power supply from another project thats 15V and 7A, do you think this would be enough or should I grab a 12V 30A supply like a lot of you are using. And when I wire this up to my printer I don't have to worry about it frying my board right? Sorry for the noob question!

36

Re: solidoodle 3 power supply options?

You have a Printerboard and will want to read up on flashing firmware (check the WIKI).  That will be a requirement to achieve the higher temps you are seeking.  The PSU is simple, you have a 12v system so 15v is simply too much and 7amps is not exactly what I'd call robust.  Spend the 20 some bucks and buy a supernight you won't be disappointed.

Printit Industries Model 8.10 fully enclosed CoreXY, Chamber heat
3-SD3's & a Workbench all fully enclosed, RH-Slic3r Win7pro, E3D V6, Volcano & Cyclops Hot End
SSR/500W AC Heated Glass Bed, Linear bearings on SS rods. Direct Drive Y-axis, BulldogXL
Thanks to all for your contributions

37

Re: solidoodle 3 power supply options?

Thank you very much for your reply! I figured the new power supply would be a must. I'll read up on flashing the firmware to set those higher temperatures and get ahold of one of those power supplies. Again, thank you very much!

38

Re: solidoodle 3 power supply options?

Just an update on this as i thought this post was long lost in the many posts in this section, i have been using the 12v 30A supply as i was recommended at the beginning of this thread and have been using it since and it has been amazing. I definitely recommend spending the $20-$30 in a heartbeat! The amber cover does very well with protecting the exposed terminals and was much easier at wiring as i had originally thought. I'm currently running my SD3 with and E3d V6.

39

Re: solidoodle 3 power supply options?

Hello I am also looking for a little help with my power supply. I have a Solidoodle 3 with a rev-e board that has a cpu power input. The power supply that came with my printer blew out and I have purchased the 350 w power supply mentioned early in this forum post. Now if some one out there would be kind enough to teach me what to do next it would just make my day.

40

Re: solidoodle 3 power supply options?

Hey, I'd be happy to help you getting it up and running.. So firstly, the things you're gonna need - 

1. Your power supply unit
2. Some 14 to 16 gauge insulated cabling
3. If you're willing to cut the cords off your solidoodle power supply unit, then you'll just need that. Otherwise, you'll need a barrel connector that plugs into the printer, and a power cable off something else (or an extension cord)

Let's get started!
So, first things first.. Turn your power supply around so that it is facing you like this - http://soliforum.com/i/?nfxLTu7.jpg

Ignore the cables screwed in there for now. If you look on the right hand side, you'll see the terminals for the Line (L), Neutral (N), and Earth (earth symbol) cables for the cord that you'll plug into the wall outlet.

Take an extension cord and cut it in half, or the power cable for something that you don't use any more. At the end that you cut, cut back some of the very outer insulation about 3cm. You can see this here in the white -
http://soliforum.com/i/?BaYRKk4.jpg

Inside you should see 3 separate cables, the colours of the insulation of these will vary, depending on your country and the standard to which the cable was made. It should be either Red, Black, Green for Line, Neutral, Earth respectively.. Or Brown, Blue, Green (or green and yellow stripes) again for Line, Neutral and Earth Respectively.

Using some wire strippers, carefully cut off about 1cm of insulation on each of these cables, and screw them into their respective terminals as seen in my picture above. If you've made it to here, congrats! Thats almost half done. This part was a bit of a pain in the ass for me to strip it all carefully and neatly. Also, make sure you screw them fairly tight, you don't want it falling out and shocking you. But you also don't want to screw it in so tight that the copper strands snap right off.

The next part
Now onto the other half, there should be 6 terminals left. Half of them will be labelled "+V" and the other half "-V". Here is where you'll need your 14 or 16 gauge cable. 16 will be easier to work with (thinner) but won't be able to handle as much current as 14. If you're wondering, I used 16.

You'll want to cut it up firstly into 4 short pieces, at a guess I'd say about 3-4cm long. Strip 1cm of insulation off each end and start screwing! This part gets a little fiddly.. The whole purpose of doing all of this is so that you can get the maximum power output from the power supply unit.

First, screw one end into the far left terminal, and then bend it around into the terminal to its right. Before you screw that in, you'll want to put in another one of your pieces and screw them in together. Then, take the loose end from this piece and insert it into the terminal to its right again, we should be at the terminal 3rd from the left now. Here, you'll want to screw in a length of your cable too (however long you want it to be) this will be the positive 12V lead to the printer. Repeat the same process, but starting from the right side of the negative terminals and working your way to the left. The picture will make it a whole lot easier to understand.. Pretty much, screw in your cables like this -  http://soliforum.com/i/?10Nuo7w.jpg

Then, with the ends of the long cords that you screwed in, you'll want to strip off about 1cm of insulation again. And go grab either your barrel plug or just the part that you cut off the original power supply. Mine looks like this -  http://soliforum.com/i/?no1DXOL.jpg

Strip away the insulation from this too, and you should find a red and a black cable inside. Solder the cord coming from the +V side of your power supply unit to the red cable on your barrel plug, and the cord from the -V side of your power supply to the black cable on your barrel plug. An alternative to soldering is to go out and buy an easy screw in connector like I have, but it does the same thinghttp://soliforum.com/i/?KdVhdUW.jpg

Your power supply unit should now be looking something like this - http://soliforum.com/i/?LNDqmoU.jpg

Almost there now...
Now for the moment of truth.. Plug it in and turn it on. I can't say this enough.. Keep your hands well away from the terminals while it is powered on.. If you touch it you'd be greeted by a very very very nasty shock.

For some fine tuning, take a volt meter or multimeter and attach the probes to the outer casing of the barrel connector, and inside the hole at the end. With the power supply on, take a screw driver and slowly turn this little adjustment potentiometer here (with the yellow cap)  to get the output voltage as close to 12V as possible http://soliforum.com/i/?qg9eTDf.jpg

Again, make sure your screw driver doesn't go astray and touch one of the terminals while you're doing this.

Once you've got the voltage set to the correct level, plug it all in and power her up! Let me know if you've got any questions smile

-Matt