Re: PLA troubles - strange
Wardjr. I've got a fan on the motor and does not get hot to touch. That stringing must not look wrong..huh?
I'm perplexed
still a rookie newbie, but learning.
Dreaming on building a large format from scratch
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SoliForum - 3D Printing Community → Filament → PLA troubles - strange
Wardjr. I've got a fan on the motor and does not get hot to touch. That stringing must not look wrong..huh?
I'm perplexed
Where is the VREF. is that in the board programming?
VREF (reference voltage) is adjusted for each motor on the drivers located on the board. Each has a small POT that can be adjusted. If your motor isn't getting hot (it shouldn't) but is stalling, then it's possible the VREF needs to be turned up (CW) just a tiny bit. Or it could be that the temp is simply too cold for that particular filament. When you installed the V6 did you set the thermistor type to 5 in the firmware flash?
The stinging could just be that the temp was too cool as you pulled the filament out. It's not uncommon to see that. Every filament is different.
Yes, I updated the firmware. correctly I believe
I see the pot ( I think)
1/4 turn, 1/8 turn?
1/16th to start with
Use a non conductive screw driver.
I increased the retract from 2 to 3 and upped the Vref. Can you explain what is changing with Vref?
PLA seems to be doing better
Vref sets the current limit that drives the motor.
Thanks for all the tips. I've got more information that I think is part of my problem.
I've had several successful runs, but they are always hollow parts which means to me that I might be having a problem with retraction. The hollow parts have minimal to almost no retraction events.
what sort of number in slic3r should I be using?
Retraction is kind of dependent on the setup you have (hotend & extruder type) and the material being used.
A direct drive system shouldn't really need all that much, but a bowden can require a fair bit more.
For most materials my direct drive E3Ds use less than 1mm - some materials do require a little bit more (nylon), but not by very much.
One the other hand, the kossel with a bowden system and an E3D is more like 4-5mm.
different hot ends will have different settings.
Heartless, WardJr, and Carl. you were a big help.
I've reduced retraction to 1mm and that has solved my problems.
my new questions.
#1. how long should I expect to run a nozzle before a cleaning on PLA?
I've been cleaning with two drill bits and a torch. running the bits in by hand to draw out the plastic.
#2 What is your preferred method.
New problem. I'm running the crap out of my machine
Last night the Y-axis started jumping teeth. I lubed it well with light oil. But it still seem stiff. I took the y axis apart and all parts seem to slide smooth independently. but when I reassembled...it seems a bit stiff as an assembly. I futzed with the tension and now I wonder if the belts are too tight
#3 how do you gauge belt tension
#4 any ideas of how to loosen up the y-axis
( I know that #4 could be a hundred different answers...give me a couple of top choices please)
#5 is light oil (like 3 in 1) the right choice?
I don't ever clean my nozzles but rarely use PLA.
3 in 1 oil is fine.
If the Y axis binds as an assembly then you'll have to futz with alignment of the two y belts until you find the sweet spot. You may also find that one of the rods has a slight bend to it, try rotating them 1/4 turn and see if anything changes.
As for belt tension the important thing is that they are equal. I do that by plucking them with the gantry near center and adjust to the same frequency.
I've reduced retraction to 1mm and that has solved my problems.
my new questions.
#1. how long should I expect to run a nozzle before a cleaning on PLA?
I've been cleaning with two drill bits and a torch. running the bits in by hand to draw out the plastic.
#2 What is your preferred method.
As wardjr said - I don't clean my nozzles either, unless i get a clog on a rare occasion. You really shouldnt need to "clean" the inside unless you are clearing a clog.
New problem. I'm running the crap out of my machine
Last night the Y-axis started jumping teeth. I lubed it well with light oil. But it still seem stiff. I took the y axis apart and all parts seem to slide smooth independently. but when I reassembled...it seems a bit stiff as an assembly. I futzed with the tension and now I wonder if the belts are too tight
#3 how do you gauge belt tension
I run mine tight enough that they can just be pinched together in the middle with the carriage parked at one end...
#4 any ideas of how to loosen up the y-axis
( I know that #4 could be a hundred different answers...give me a couple of top choices please)
is everything squared up? if one side is slightly ahead/behind the other side it will cause it to bind up...
Loosen the set screw in the right rear pulley, and work the carriages back and forth a little, stopping with things in a neutral position and tighten the set screw again.
#5 is light oil (like 3 in 1) the right choice?
I use 3-in-1 oil all the time on the smooth rods. If you dont think that is enough, you can try a very thin coating of white lithium grease (available at most auto parts stores)
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