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Topic: thoughts on printer board

I am getting ready to build my next printer. It will be quite a bit larger with a build area of 600x600x600. I like the ramps 1.4 I'm using on my last printer, but I think I would like to use something more robust. I am thinking of using a diamond extruder that has 3 extruders in 1. Also the heated bed will be another issue to work around. I can get a heated bed that's 600x600 that runs 24 volt or 110vac from the standard outlet. The printerboard is what I would like some input on. The only one that I found that maybe a good fit would be this:  The Azteeg X3 PRO. I would have to run the 24v heated bed, which I am ok with just think the 110vac would he a lot faster. Has anyone had experience with the The Azteeg X3 PRO? If so is it fairly easy to work with as far as firmware and setup? If anyone else has another option they would recommend I would be happy to take a look at that also.

Thank you in advance for your help.

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Re: thoughts on printer board

I use an Azteeg X3 on my dual CTc. I love the brand and use most of the guys stuff on all my printers. Firmware wise, no real difference from other boards.

You can still drive the bed with 110, just use a Solid State relay that can handle 120vac. Connect its controlled side to the bed outputs of the Azteeg then connect the other side of the ssr to the AC feed to the bed. I can show you a diagram if you need it.

Printing since 2009 and still love it!
Anycubic 4MAX best $225 ever invested.
Voxelabs Proxima SLA. 6 inch 2k Mono LCD.
Anycubic Predator, massive Delta machine. 450 x 370 print envelope.

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Re: thoughts on printer board

Thank you for your quick response. I did not know I could run the 110 with a relay controlled by the board. If you have a diagram I would be very grateful to see it. Hopefully I can start picking up stuff next month and get on to bigger and better prints.

Thanks

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Re: thoughts on printer board

Carl is right, that's how I run my bed heaters.  I'm sure there's a diagram floating around here somewhere.  But I may suggest that if you aren't certain about a mod like this, you maybe should proceed with extreme caution. 
The azteeg x3 is a good board as is the Rumba and both will do what you are looking for.  And although I am a huge fan of the X3 I think for this application the Rumba would be a better solution.  It simply has more options and they are similarly priced.  Makerfarm sells the Rumba.

Printit Industries Model 8.10 fully enclosed CoreXY, Chamber heat
3-SD3's & a Workbench all fully enclosed, RH-Slic3r Win7pro, E3D V6, Volcano & Cyclops Hot End
SSR/500W AC Heated Glass Bed, Linear bearings on SS rods. Direct Drive Y-axis, BulldogXL
Thanks to all for your contributions

5

Re: thoughts on printer board

Oh, firmware setup for both is simple and straightforward.

Printit Industries Model 8.10 fully enclosed CoreXY, Chamber heat
3-SD3's & a Workbench all fully enclosed, RH-Slic3r Win7pro, E3D V6, Volcano & Cyclops Hot End
SSR/500W AC Heated Glass Bed, Linear bearings on SS rods. Direct Drive Y-axis, BulldogXL
Thanks to all for your contributions

6

Re: thoughts on printer board

wardjr wrote:

Carl is right, that's how I run my bed heaters.  I'm sure there's a diagram floating around here somewhere.  But I may suggest that if you aren't certain about a mod like this, you maybe should proceed with extreme caution. 
The azteeg x3 is a good board as is the Rumba and both will do what you are looking for.  And although I am a huge fan of the X3 I think for this application the Rumba would be a better solution.  It simply has more options and they are similarly priced.  Makerfarm sells the Rumba.

 

So what is the advantage of the rumba over the x3. If I look both up it appears that the x3 can support up to 8 steppers( 3 extruders, 2 z, 1 x, 1 y and 1 more for something else) and dual heated beds, the rumba says 5 steppers? Or is it a case of easier to use?  I am not against any board at this time, just want to get as much info as I can on the advantages and disadvantages. Thanks Wardjr

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Re: thoughts on printer board

It's not really a one is better than the other issue.  The Rumba in my opinion will take more abuse due to the robust design.  It has both header pins and screw terminals for the important things, making it more versitile.  The Azteeg boards have some reported issues that can only be attributed to quality control issues.  Although I'm guessing most of that has been resolved.  The Rumba isn't without its flaws either.  The 16u2 (USB chip) has been known to end up with corrupt .hex file that can only be corrected with a programmer.  Like the Azteeg I feel that issue has also been resolved.
Since both of these boards are really remarkable performers.  The question is will they fulfill your long term goals?  Maybe you need to be looking into 32 bit boards like the Smoothie or Azteeg X5 or Duet.
Given your list of requirements in the OP, if it were me I'd go with the Rumba and DRV8825 drivers all around.  Even if I had no plans to run the X,Y&Z axis at 1/32.  The DRV8825's will take some serious abuse.  I can only speak to genuine RRD Rumba and DRV8825's as there are plenty of clones floating around out there.
Hope this helps.

Printit Industries Model 8.10 fully enclosed CoreXY, Chamber heat
3-SD3's & a Workbench all fully enclosed, RH-Slic3r Win7pro, E3D V6, Volcano & Cyclops Hot End
SSR/500W AC Heated Glass Bed, Linear bearings on SS rods. Direct Drive Y-axis, BulldogXL
Thanks to all for your contributions

8 (edited by carl_m1968 2016-04-05 23:59:10)

Re: thoughts on printer board

sandcub1971 wrote:

Thank you for your quick response. I did not know I could run the 110 with a relay controlled by the board. If you have a diagram I would be very grateful to see it. Hopefully I can start picking up stuff next month and get on to bigger and better prints.

Thanks


It's not pretty but it gets the idea across.. As Ward said this does use 120VAC so there is some risk so please be careful, add fuses, and make sure connections are well insulated. The output to the bed from the controller normally does not matter the polarity. But in this application you will need to know which out to the bed is positive and negative and connect them to the SSR accordingly.

http://soliforum.com/i/?ZzZ6Ugh.jpg

Printing since 2009 and still love it!
Anycubic 4MAX best $225 ever invested.
Voxelabs Proxima SLA. 6 inch 2k Mono LCD.
Anycubic Predator, massive Delta machine. 450 x 370 print envelope.

9 (edited by sandcub1971 2016-04-06 01:42:49)

Re: thoughts on printer board

carl_m1968 wrote:
sandcub1971 wrote:

Thank you for your quick response. I did not know I could run the 110 with a relay controlled by the board. If you have a diagram I would be very grateful to see it. Hopefully I can start picking up stuff next month and get on to bigger and better prints.

Thanks


It's not pretty but it gets the idea across.. As Ward said this does use 120VAC so there is some risk so please be careful, add fuses, and make sure connections are well insulated. The output to the bed from the controller normally does not matter the polarity. But in this application you will need to know which out to the bed is positive and negative and connect them to the SSR accordingly.

http://soliforum.com/i/?ZzZ6Ugh.jpg

Ok thank you for the diagram, The main thing I wanted to know is to put the relay on the positive or negative side of the circuit, but you covered that in your drawing. its on the negative side.

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Re: thoughts on printer board

sandcub1971 wrote:
carl_m1968 wrote:
sandcub1971 wrote:

Thank you for your quick response. I did not know I could run the 110 with a relay controlled by the board. If you have a diagram I would be very grateful to see it. Hopefully I can start picking up stuff next month and get on to bigger and better prints.

Thanks


It's not pretty but it gets the idea across.. As Ward said this does use 120VAC so there is some risk so please be careful, add fuses, and make sure connections are well insulated. The output to the bed from the controller normally does not matter the polarity. But in this application you will need to know which out to the bed is positive and negative and connect them to the SSR accordingly.

http://soliforum.com/i/?ZzZ6Ugh.jpg

Ok thank you for the diagram, The main thing I wanted to know is to put the relay on the positive or negative side of the circuit, but you covered that in your drawing. its on the negative side.


It does not really matter since with AC there is really no negative side..  But to be safe I would actually have the relay interrupt line side. That way there should be no power assuming correct household wiring at the heater when the relay is off.. Connect neutral straight through.

Printing since 2009 and still love it!
Anycubic 4MAX best $225 ever invested.
Voxelabs Proxima SLA. 6 inch 2k Mono LCD.
Anycubic Predator, massive Delta machine. 450 x 370 print envelope.

11

Re: thoughts on printer board

Yes please run line or hot to the SSR this leaves neutral intact.
Then be smart and use a ground cord and connect a ground wire to the chassis and the metal of the build platform.  If that heater ever burns through the frame becomes the circuit.  That'll bring a whole new definition to the word HOT!!!

Printit Industries Model 8.10 fully enclosed CoreXY, Chamber heat
3-SD3's & a Workbench all fully enclosed, RH-Slic3r Win7pro, E3D V6, Volcano & Cyclops Hot End
SSR/500W AC Heated Glass Bed, Linear bearings on SS rods. Direct Drive Y-axis, BulldogXL
Thanks to all for your contributions

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Re: thoughts on printer board

AC has a Neutral/ground side and a Line/load side. all switching and fuses go on the Line side not the neutral/ground side on 115v single phase current. since neutral normally has no power applied to it unless building circuits share a neutral in a junction box back to breaker panel that has multiple phases or 220 etc. some old commercial buildings done this and if the other circuits loose their neutral they find it through the others sharing it which leads to backfeeding 220v to the other 110v appliances and burning them out. been there done that.

Solidoodle 2 with Deluxe kit cover & glass bed with heater. and 2nd board SD2 used not 3rd and alum platform not installed yet still wood. also need cooling fan installed to board. use Repetier Host couple vers. Slic3r also have all free ware STL programs

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Re: thoughts on printer board

Well I decided not to mess around with using a relay off of my board. Instead I bought the setup in the link as it is a self contained unit with controller and all. And it runs 110VAC. It should be delivered today but I wont get a chance to install it until this weekend. Will let you know how it works.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/271835537775?_t … EBIDX%3AIT

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Re: thoughts on printer board

sandcub1971 wrote:

Well I decided not to mess around with using a relay off of my board. Instead I bought the setup in the link as it is a self contained unit with controller and all. And it runs 110VAC. It should be delivered today but I wont get a chance to install it until this weekend. Will let you know how it works.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/271835537775?_t … EBIDX%3AIT


Make sure you set your firmware and host to no heated bed installed if using an external controller. Orherwise it will be looking for a thermistor and fail.

Printing since 2009 and still love it!
Anycubic 4MAX best $225 ever invested.
Voxelabs Proxima SLA. 6 inch 2k Mono LCD.
Anycubic Predator, massive Delta machine. 450 x 370 print envelope.

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Re: thoughts on printer board

Will do thank you

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Re: thoughts on printer board

Will do thank you

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Re: thoughts on printer board

carl_m1968 wrote:
sandcub1971 wrote:

Well I decided not to mess around with using a relay off of my board. Instead I bought the setup in the link as it is a self contained unit with controller and all. And it runs 110VAC. It should be delivered today but I wont get a chance to install it until this weekend. Will let you know how it works.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/271835537775?_t … EBIDX%3AIT


Make sure you set your firmware and host to no heated bed installed if using an external controller. Orherwise it will be looking for a thermistor and fail.

Heres an update. I installed it and did not worry about changing my firmware. All I had to do was shut off the heated bed in my simplify3D software and BOOM works like a dream. As far as time to warm up, can you say less than 1 min to get to 110 bed temp. That's faster than my hotend smile. I will be ordering another heated pad for my larger bed. It just works perfectly.

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Re: thoughts on printer board

Do you just manually shut the bed heater off when the print is done?

FuseBox 1.5 CoreXY - e3dv6 - Graphic Smart Display
Solidoodle 2 - e3dv6 - Hobb Goblin - e3d Titan - lawsy carriages - Direct Drive Y Axis - T8 Z axis - OctoPi

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Re: thoughts on printer board

Yes that is the only drawback to using this method. But other than that it is perfect.