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SoliForum - 3D Printing Community → Help/Repair/Maintenance → Power cord on solidoodle 2
I accidentally pulled the power cord out of the back of my solidoodle 2. Does anyone know where to solder it back in again? I'm new to soldering things and I don't know anything about the circuit board or where things go.
Here is a picture of what it looks like in the back.
I see parts of barrel on that piece. That means the board may be damaged and even if you did solder it bsck, it may not work. Just google the board for an image, it will show where the connector goes.
There should be two hples in the cover to access the screws in that connector. They should right behind the connector from that camera view. It goes right below those.
I found a picture of where the terminal goes, but I cant free the legs of the terminal from the green plastic thing so that I can solder them back on the board. What would happen if I solder the wires directly to the board? One thing to note is that my board is green and this one is red so I'm not sure if they are the same 100% but they both appear to be sanguinololu rev 1.3a.
You don't free the legs. they go through the board and you solder them from the bottom side. that means you have to unmount the board from the machine.
Based on the first image, the pins that go through the board are broken, and probably still on the board.
If this is the case, there are 2 options:
1. Buy a new terminal connector like the original, using a desoldering tool remove what's left of the pins from the motherboard and clear the holes, then solder the new terminal in place.
2. Do a quick & dirty hack and simply solder the wire directly to the board pads.
Do a quick & dirty hack and simply solder the wire directly to the board pads.
If you go this route, make sure to use some kind of strain relief (at least some hot melt glue over where you soldered) to ensure that you don't accidentally rip the pads off the board next time you strain something. Personally I would see about soldering on a barrel connector of some kind so if it gets pulled it will simply unplug the connector. I did similar to my RUMBA board after I accidentally ripped the USB port off of it.
Thank you to everyone who replied, I'm really new to repairing things like this and I appreciate the help. I bought a new terminal screw yesterday and I'm just waiting for it to arrive in the mail. The idea of a power jack sounds great but I have a question about that.
https://www.sparkfun.com/products/10811
Would this one fit on my board? and where do I put that third pin it has in the front?
As for the power cable that goes into it, I don't know how to look for the one I need. My solidoodle has the power cord split in half. The first half plugs into the wall and has the big box on it. The second half plugs into that box and then goes into the terminal on that back of my board. What is that called and can I find a power jack version of that?
Could I just use this?
Okay, lesson time!
The big box is a transformer. The power coming from your wall is ~110v alternating current, but the solidoodle uses 12v direct current. The transformer drops the voltage and rectifies the AC to DC.
Coming in to your board you have 2 wires. One is +12VDC and the other is 0VDC. If you confuse them, your board will go pop (unless it has a couple diodes for protection, which it most likely does not). Essentially, you have to get that 12V to the board.
That power adapter you linked from sparkfun is the right idea, but it doesn't have enough amperage to supply a 3d printer. What I would probably do is use the existing power supply and add an inline barrel connector. The jack you linked would work (one of the pins is an interlock and can be disregarded for our purposes) but it doesn't have the right pins to fit in your board. I will take a look and see what I can find for you.
http://www.amazon.com/Adapter-Female-Co … +connector here's a set of screw terminal style connectors. You can solder some wires onto the board and then screw them into the terminals with the socket on one end and the plug on the other. It's not pretty but it would work and provide some strain relief.
I will save the power jack connection mod for later because I want to get up and running as quick as possible for right now and the terminal makes things easier for the jack later anyway. Based on all the information though, I have come up with a diagram on how to wire it up. Hopefully I have things down right. I also got an idea for a bracket to hold the jack plug to the solidoodle frame that I can print up later as well.
Yep, that looks right! Love the drawing. Make sure when you do that you attach the female connector to the frame of the machine (or something solid). A little 3d printed bracket would work, as would tape.
If you're willing to practice soldering, you can get barrel connectors like that that completely cover the terminals. Instead of screwing the wires down, you solder them to rings on the back of the connector. The cover screws around it to cover it up, like this one: http://www.ebay.com/itm/10-Pair-20pcs-2 … 417a6d87e4
The main reasons I linked to the screw terminal ones are because they're easy to use and you don't have to solder. If i was doing it myself, I'd use the solder ones.
My screw terminals arrived today and of course I messed up and got the wrong size. Does anyone know how they are measured or what size is supposed to go on the board?
They are measured from pin center to pin center. I believe somebody already posted what it should be. But just get some calibers and measure on the board from hole center to hole center and get a connector whos pins will fit that pattern.
According to my ruler its 4.5mm. does Frys carry these?
I would go with Mouser or Digikey and even Jameco.
http://www.jameco.com/webapp/wcs/stores … 2120567_-1
Looks like it to me. I cant find one with the spacing you measure so this 5.08 is probably correct since the lower size is 2.8.
In addition if you Google Sanguinololu you would find the wiki about it. This is the controller you use. You would also find there a bom for a mouser order of all the parts to build it with. Your connector is on there and here is the actual part at mouser. Ignore the image in the link it is just representative.
http://www.mouser.com/Search/m_ProductD … 51-1729018
Carl has it right, it's a 5mm pitch on those pins. You might find something similar at Fry's, but for me they have always been hit or miss. The advantage is actually being able to go there and see what you're getting.
My 5mm part came in the mail today, the fit was like 97% so I just bent the pin a tiny bit to make it fit. What happens though, if I pressed the reset button on the circuit board while everything was disconnected? I don't think I did it while I was holding it but I cant be 100% sure. I also dropped it like half a foot onto a table like twice.
Plug it in I'm sure it's fine.
I plugged it in and nothing happened. There's a red led light on the back of the board that says power, but that only comes on when I plug in the usb cable. It looks like I can still connect to it with repetier host. I did notice however that the led on the transformer doesn't come on. How can I test to see if the transformer is bad or if I messed something up on the board? It gets hot when I plug it in.
What specifically gets hot?
The transformer gets hot.
Does anyone have one of these on their printer?
http://www.solidoodle.com/parts-120w-power-supply
Could you tell me the size of the jack so I can buy one and the appropriate adapter?
Can I replace the sd2 main board with an sd3 board without any problems connecting everything back up again? I give up on my current board.
Can I replace the sd2 main board with an sd3 board without any problems connecting everything back up again? I give up on my current board.
They sell your printrboard all over ebay. The same board as you have now.
SoliForum - 3D Printing Community → Help/Repair/Maintenance → Power cord on solidoodle 2
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