201

Re: Glass Bed

I'm with Wardjr on using hairspray to keep the glass plate down. I just spray a little on the original print bed. put the glass (or mirror in my case) down then let the bed heater dry and set the hairspray. It never goes anywhere and with only a small amount of spray it makes taking the bed off very easy.

Keeping on my "all things Ikea" thought process (that place has had so much of my money) I use these mirrors http://www.ikea.com/gb/en/catalog/products/60074007/ on my SD2 which are a little big but it fits fine and the extra size also helps prevent run out as the nozzle heats up before printing. They should be perfect size for SD3+ owners.
Personally I still use kapton on the mirror but each to their own on that one.

202

Re: Glass Bed

The first time I tried this with picture frame glass it didnt work so well.....But after going through kapton like crazy, I finally did some research on it. Everywhere I went people were saying to use Pyrex. Well my local glass shop couldnt get Pyrex but the could order Tempered glass. I ended up going that route and I couldnt be happier.

Also for people who have the S4 but want to retain the use of there adjustable Z Axis wheel (or any printer really) Ive found that if you just go to your local hobby shop that sells RC cars and Planes (or in my case Drones, which are basically RC planes or Quadcopters) they have pieces that are used to join servo arms, or on quadcopters they use them as spacers to stack plates on top of each other. Anyways they easily thread onto the end of your printers stock Z axis adjuster screw, and give you the added length you need if you have a glass bed or longer hot end (or both)

One more think Ive found. Those binder clips usually get hung up on the arms that you use to open them up and attach them. But once youve got them clipped onto the glass (I use the corners) the arms com off by just squeezing the part of the arms that goes into the clip together. Once you do that It makes it much more unlikely your print head will catch on it.

203

Re: Glass Bed

The first time I tried this with picture frame glass it didnt work so well.....But after going through kapton like crazy, I finally did some research on it. Everywhere I went people were saying to use Pyrex. Well my local glass shop couldnt get Pyrex but the could order Tempered glass. I ended up going that route and I couldnt be happier.

Also for people who have the S4 but want to retain the use of there adjustable Z Axis wheel (or any printer really) Ive found that if you just go to your local hobby shop that sells RC cars and Planes (or in my case Drones, which are basically RC planes or Quadcopters) they have pieces that are used to join servo arms, or on quadcopters they use them as spacers to stack plates on top of each other. Anyways they easily thread onto the end of your printers stock Z axis adjuster screw, and give you the added length you need if you have a glass bed or longer hot end (or both)

One more think Ive found. Those binder clips usually get hung up on the arms that you use to open them up and attach them. But once youve got them clipped onto the glass (I use the corners) the arms com off by just squeezing the part of the arms that goes into the clip together. Once you do that It makes it much more unlikely your print head will catch on it.

204 (edited by grob 2014-11-18 04:08:46)

Re: Glass Bed

trinium42 wrote:

...they have pieces that are used to join servo arms, or on quadcopters they use them as spacers to stack plates on top of each other. Anyways they easily thread onto the end of your printers stock Z axis adjuster screw, and give you the added length you need if you have a glass bed or longer hot end (or both)

Those things are called standoffs, and can also be found in various lengths/forms all over the net: m3 standoff

SD3. Mk2b + glass, heated enclosure, GT2 belts, direct drive y shaft, linear bearings, bowden-feed E3D v5 w/ 0.9° stepper
Smoothieboard via Octoprint on RPi

205

Re: Glass Bed

I had some left over plain 12" x 12" mirror tiles from another project that were purchased at the local home improvement store - about 1/8" thick. (6 tiles to a box for around $10)

Cut one down to size to fit my SD4 bed with a simple glass cutter ($2.00 item). held in place with binder clips and couldnt be happier! solved my warped bed issue - i can use nearly the whole bed now - and my prints are coming out much nicer since I can now properly level the bed, instead of trying to compensate for the warp.

SD4 with Lawsy carriages, Rumba board, & new 12v PSU, E3D v6, mirror bed plate, X motor fan.
Stock SD4
Prusa i3 kit, spring loaded extruder upgrade, Y axis belt tensioner

206

Re: Glass Bed

I went to Home Depot and got a box of 12X12 mirrors, 6 to a package for $10...

FFCP using copper buildplates.

207

Re: Glass Bed

Raimond wrote:

I went to Home Depot and got a box of 12X12 mirrors, 6 to a package for $10...

same stuff I use. smile

SD4 #1 & #2 - Lawsy carriages, E3D v6, Rumba controller board, mirror bed plate, X motor fan, upgraded PSU & Mica bed heater
SD4 #3 - in the works ~ Folgertech FT-5, rev 1
Printit Industries Beta Tester - Horizon H1